Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River Yosemite

[ststephen]

After our Ten Lakes Basin trip we had a couple of days to shower, relax and eat some good food before we met up with another scout from Aaron's troop to do another 4 day trip. This was supposed to be me leading all the capable scouts from our troop on backpacking trip. But, one by one as the date neared parents called me to cancel. It was discouraging and I admit I was a bit bitter. I had planned this whole week of vacation to accommodate my own family's trip and also to allow the troop to meet up with us someplace relatively near for backpacking. If I had the week fully to myself I would have set my sights further away from home. I seriously considered canceling the trip but I decided that the one boy deserved a chance to go. In the end I'm very glad I did.

I know this kid has been having trouble at school and at home, but it was definitely one of those things where out of that stressful environment he relaxed and not only gave me no trouble but was a nice addition to the group. Getting a chance to show a kid how great it is to be out on the trails is really the whole reason I participate in Scouting, so that felt good even though no one else came.

Now the one bummer about this trip is that due to a stupid mistake on my part I only have a few photos taken with my cheap point-and-shoot and only from the last part of the trip. But, I'll describe our route and share what I do have.



Day 1: White Wolf to Pate Valley

We were doing this hike in the less popular direction. Starting at White Wolf is about 1,000 ft. lower than Tuolumne Meadows. Another reason may be that descending the Tuolumne seems more attractive to folks is that the final climb out of Pate Valley will be with a lighter pack. Personally, I like it in our direction. But it would mean a bit of a grueling descent of ~4,000 ft and the temps were going to rise as we went.

The fire above Pate Valley we knew of from our trip earlier in the week was still burning but the trails were all open. It was interesting watching the change in vegetation as we moved from evergreen to deciduous forests. One nice thing about going in the contrary direction is we got to meet folks ending their trip. It seemed like each group was trying to sell us on the merits of the camp sites they had found. It was like a bunch of over-zealous realtors touting their "move in condition" and "location, location, location". One even mentioned the granite counter tops of the "kitchen".

While humorous this was also very helpful. We pushed on through the Pate valley even though tired because we knew there were several possible camp sites and we finally found one we had learned about which required a little bush whacking. That extra effort yielded us a private sandy beach and great seating for our group around a fire ring.

I swam in the Tuolumne River but couldn't persuade anyone else. Huh??? Everyone was hot and tired and there was this great beach and clean water, but no one wants to swim? Yeah it's a bit brisk, but geez, Man UP! Whatever.

Day 2: Opposite Cathedral Creek

We were right at the junction of where the Pate Valley ends and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne begins. Heading up the GC we had alternatively nice views of the lower end of the canyon and forested sections. In every forested section, even if we were nowhere near the river or any boggy ground, the mosquitos were fierce. We passed a camp site occupied by a couple who were cooking a leisurely breakfast of pancakes. I couldn't believe the guy could stand there without a shirt while we swatted the little buggers. He regaled us with a story of chasing a bear out of the area the night before. "I went and pissed on his droppings to show him this was my territory." Okay...a little TMI, but interesting. We had no sightings of bears at all.

The other scout in our group was hurting from the descent the day before. Too much couch surfing this summer I think. But he was a trooper and didn't complain unless I probed. But, I was conscious that we shouldn't try to push it too much this day. The problem is that once you enter the Muir Gorge the campsite opportunities get slim. I had noticed a spot on the topo that looked promising opposite where Cathedral Creek joins the Tuolumne, but of course you can't be I sure what you will find.

Passing some folks we learned that there were some campsites but once you came to the "burned out section" no more for many hours. This day also had its difficult part. At one point you need to climb steeply over a saddle only to lose all that altitude again and arrive once more at river level. It was hot and everyone was quiet as we slogged up that section.

As we got near Cathedral Creek I spotted some marginal but usable campsites. Several times I had to urge the group to keep looking. When I got to the area I had seen on my topo I started bush whacking looking for a level spot above the river. No luck. Robin was getting annoyed thinking we'd have to backtrack significantly to get to the marginal sites earlier. Just as I gave up and we started to retreat I noticed an area I had missed. We had views of the falls of Cathedral Creek, nice pools to swim and filter water and a spacious site. Score!

Day 3: Waterwheel, Le Conte and California Falls

Today would take us past the most beautiful parts of Muir Gorge potentially ending at the Glen Aulin backpacker's camp. Everyone was motivated to ensure that our final day would be quick and easy, probably thinking of cold drinks and burgers. There was significant climbing again, but definitely not as hard as the second day. Waterwheel and Le Conte falls were spectacular and we had nice rest stops at each. It was right around noon as we were nearing California Falls with only about an hour to go to Glen Aulin when I saw it: the perfect campsite. Nestled next to decent sized waterfall was this little grove of pine trees. Nice, but what made you gasp when you saw it was the pool. The water was an emerald green, deep and clear. The granite that framed it was cut into an near perfect 90 degree angle and the water gently lapped just over the top. It was the perfect swimming hole and a water slide flowed into it.

It was only noon-ish and we would add an hour to our walk the next day but I suggested to everyone that this was too nice to pass up. We all agreed and spent the afternoon swimming, sliding, climbing boulders and hiking around the general area. Other hikers that passed this section would invariably stop and point at our site. One or two came down to swim and one guy had a snorkeling mask. What a great idea! He graciously let me borrow it and it was SO cool to see trout under the rocks and get to see the whole underwater shape of the granite slabs. I need to remember to pack something similar next trip.

Day 4: Back to Tuolumne Meadows

We had a nice easy jaunt up the rest of the river passing more waterfalls and idyllic sections of the Tuolumne. You start to get blas

[oldno7]

Man--you need a UWA lens.
Great shots, beautiful place, thanks for sharing.

[ststephen]

Man--you need a UWA lens.

Tokina 11-16 Delivery date: 9/14. San Rafael Swell: 9/24. Can't wait!

Though I may use my waterproof point-and-shoot while canyoneering.

[Sombeech]

Awesome. I'd love to visit that area. Thanks for posting.

[ibenick]

Great trip report!

[UintaSolitude]

Great TR! As always! I would love to pick your brain, and once again you've sold me on a must do trip! Not that I'll allow this to happen, but if I must choose between 10 lakes or Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne then my choice should be?....I tried to decide on my own but you've made that impossible. The 10 Lakes vistas are stunning! The waterfalls, campground descriptions, and snorkeling adventure possibilities of the Tuolumne are irresistible!...See what you've done to me Stephen! So which is it?....I'm leaning towards 10 Lakes if early enough in the season for mosquitos? A fall trip the Tuolomne?

[UintaSolitude]

I'll either be on King's or trying to run into you the weekend of the 24th! If I get to the Swell I'll be in the Chute of the Muddy, Goblin Valley, Little Wild-Bell, Ding and Dang, and another slot or two! Hope to be able to say hello!

[ststephen]

If I must choose between 10 lakes or Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne then my choice should be?....I tried to decide on my own but you've made that impossible. The 10 Lakes vistas are stunning! The waterfalls, campground descriptions, and snorkeling adventure possibilities of the Tuolumne are irresistible!...See what you've done to me Stephen! So which is it?....I'm leaning towards 10 Lakes if early enough in the season for mosquitos? A fall trip the Tuolomne?

Thanks for the kind words about my write ups!

I would suggest the GC. Note that my pics don't treat the subjects fairly because of my issue with my camera. The GC trip is a more substantial hike and the middle of the Muir Gorge has a very special feel to it. Plus a motivated day hiker starting at the 10 Lakes TR (not White Wolf) could easily cover the lakes area itself as well as the overlook of the GC from above. I choose what I did with 10 Lakes to make a trip of a few days based on late reservations in which many THs were already full.

But feel free to PM me with more questions and hope to see you down in the Swell with the gang!