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Bo_Beck
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Joined: 02 Dec 2005
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Location: Southern Utah
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 Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:10 pm Post subject: Aires Butte today with Tanya! :-) |
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Tanya and I started up Aires Butte at 9AM this morning and it was amazingly WINDY  and COLD  . We almost turned around, but went for it anyway! I will post some pictures a little later. Tanya did awesome on that 5.6-5.7 4 pitch slab! Very impressive. Hope the photos came out good?
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accadacca
Bogley BigShot
Joined: 02 Dec 2004
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Location: On my Beemer
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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Ah man I hate that cold wind. Prolly a little colder up north here though. Looking forward to some pix. 
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Bo_Beck
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Joined: 02 Dec 2005
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Location: Southern Utah
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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| accadacca wrote: | | Ah man I hate that cold wind. Prolly a little colder up north here though. Looking forward to some pix. |
Not only was it cold, but it was HOWLING! I wore my pack up the first 2 pitches, but after making the clip on the last bolt of the 2nd pitch it is about 50' to the anchors. A big gust hit me maybe 40' past the bolt and almost sent me for the 100' whipper (cheese grater ride). Needless to say, I left my pack at the anchors atop the 2nd pitch to reduce windage! Photos to come. We didn't have time or desire to take pictures on the climb (only 1 Gri Gri) but I think we got some great photos up top.
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oldno7
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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Can't wait to see your pics.
We did a casual stroll up Angels yesterday it was my nephews first time.
Beautiful day Sat. but man there were a lot of people on the trail, now I know why I don't like those things.
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Bo_Beck
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Joined: 02 Dec 2005
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Location: Southern Utah
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:09 pm Post subject: Link to TR |
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Disregard the 5.4 rating I initially gave this route. I initially only lead 2 of the four pitches 2 years ago, so it felt like 5.4. After leading all 4 pitches today in howling wind I was very tempted to give it a 5.11 rating  , but with some serious thought I recant on my original rating and will re-instate it as 5.6-5.7. There is a lot of sand on some steep slab climbing that can be somewhat intimidating. The first pitch is a full 60 meters with 3 bolts...lets see? thats almost 70' between clips! 
here is a link to my original TR. It will have some modifications along with another photo album soon.
http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-aires-butte.htm
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Bo_Beck
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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| oldno7 wrote: | Can't wait to see your pics.
We did a casual stroll up Angels yesterday it was my nephews first time.
Beautiful day Sat. but man there were a lot of people on the trail, now I know why I don't like those things. |
I always love the hike up Angels Landing, people or not. It is such a classic trail! Was there still snow and ice on the Wiggles?
What did your nephew think?? I bet he loved it! 
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oldno7
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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It's all snow free, saw one tiny patch halfway up the last section is all.
My nephew liked it alot, he's the one I bought some gear from you for.
He's really excited to do some canyons.
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Bo_Beck
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Location: Southern Utah
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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| oldno7 wrote: | Can't wait to see your pics.
We did a casual stroll up Angels yesterday it was my nephews first time.
Beautiful day Sat. but man there were a lot of people on the trail, now I know why I don't like those things. |
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Bo_Beck
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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| accadacca wrote: | | Ah man I hate that cold wind. Prolly a little colder up north here though. Looking forward to some pix. |
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sparker1
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, Bo. Gotta say, Tanya looks ready for anything with all that gear. Glad you two had a good day.
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oldno7
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| Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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o.k. Tanya I know your not posting but I'm sure your reading---
Where the hells your long johns, a person could freeze in those high fashion britches. 
Great shots from the top, I guess to cold for rigging and ropework shots?
Serious girl---that under armour stuff is the shitznit 
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Win
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:59 am Post subject: |
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Great TR Bo, you two are amazin'. We were over in Gunlock and it was nice to start but clouds and wind did come in.
Win
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Bo_Beck
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Joined: 02 Dec 2005
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Location: Southern Utah
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:28 am Post subject: |
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| oldno7 wrote: | o.k. Tanya I know your not posting but I'm sure your reading---
Where the hells your long johns, a person could freeze in those high fashion britches.
Great shots from the top, I guess to cold for rigging and ropework shots?
Serious girl---that under armour stuff is the shitznit |
Yeah Kurt, we both made the same mistake! We wore light clothing thinking it would be nice out. The scramble up the saddle between South Ariel Peak and Aires Butte was just right for the clothing, but when we got on the buttress and exposed climb WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The wind and cold just floored us.
No...it was hard enough to just keep ourselves at the belay stances. To pull out a camera would have required hands of steel Our hands were cold and the wind blew sand that made it difficult to even look at times. I would always pull the drag rope up and flake it at my feet and stand on it to prevent it from blowing away and around the corner. On the rappels, I would flake 2 piles and have Tanya manage the feed from the anchor stance to insure no tangles or twists. Really took some creative rope management unless we wanted to have our ropes flying as a kite!
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Bo_Beck
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:32 am Post subject: |
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| Win wrote: | Great TR Bo, you two are amazin'. We were over in Gunlock and it was nice to start but clouds and wind did come in.
Win |
I'm afraid that I coerced Tanya into this one Win! Actually Tanya had expressed the desire to do some climbing again and I really wanted to get her out climbing. It was really a great climb and great day...(as soon as we were back to the vehicles ) I truly believe that we had a great adventure and I'm sure Tanya agrees!
Glad you and the wife made it out as well!
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Iceaxe
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:42 am Post subject: |
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Dang... you two sure do visit some awesome places.
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