Which Anchor/Rigging do you usually use?

[moab mark]

It's still butt cold outside, so I thought I would try to create a poll question. It will not let you preview polls so I have no idea if this is going to work.

Mark

[trackrunner]

It depends on the situation. I use a verity of methods, but can't vote multiple options. In dry canyons: I've had been using biner blocks and toss and go double strand. After one time throwing the rope and finding out it was short I thought there had to be a better way. Been using a releasable 8 in the cases where the bottom of the rappel cannot be seen. Then once the first person is down I set the rope to length of the drop.

Also nearly always use it with noobs just in case I need to lower someone.

If in a strong group with everyone is experience enough to self rescue use a biner block when the rope reaches.

Wet canyons always use a releasable (usually the 8).

YMMV


edit: grammar, spelling, clarity

[Iceaxe]

I normally just tread my rope through and go.... nothing is faster, nothing is more simple.... and I'll argue nothing is safer....

Now I use the other methods when I have a reason... say I'm on a long rap and using a pull cord

[Brian in SLC]

Nicely done, Iceaxe...yeah, my thoughts exactly.

I most commonly use a figure eight on a bite as a knot block if I need to block the rope (rappellling with a gri gri). If I use a pull cord in combo with fat climbing rope, I just rap both strands and go against the knot tying them together (if the rap ring is small enough) or I'll add a figure eight on a bite to the climbing rope (which I sometimes clip back to the pull cord if I think I need to manage both strands along the same pull direction).

Have used them all, and, for speed, ease of transistion and clarity I much prefer the figure eight descender if I knew I'd be riggin' for contingency. Timed myself three times, and, I average 5 seconds setting it up, and, its clean (I can see its good to go). Transfer to a lower is smooth and lowering is smooth too.

Munter/mule is useful to know if you don't have the gear, but, the figure eight is so clean that its worth carrying "all that extra weight".

IMHO.

-Brian in SLC

[Scott Card]

Um, I didn't see "riding lawn mower" or "daughter's bed" as anchor options above. Am I the only one who will use "natural" anchors?

As for knots(aka rigging), I am with ICE. K.I.S.S. I use what is needed for the situation.

[Lizzard]

How do you rig a releasable figure 8?

[trackrunner]

How do you rig a releasable figure 8?

There use to be better pictures and steps on the ACA site articles but those have been removed.

http://canyonquest.com/~steve/cerber..._release8.html

Note you don't have to clip to the anchor you can use only one biner and clip that back to the rope strand going to your rope bag.

Here is link on how to rig a releasable on Rich's totem. With the totem you don't need a twist or go back through the big eye of the eight.

http://canyoneering.us/2009/10/17/ri...easable-block/

[moab mark]

[quote=Iceaxe]I normally just tread my rope through and go.... nothing is faster, nothing is more simple.... and I'll argue nothing is safer....

Now I use the other methods when I have a reason... say I'm on a long rap and using a pull cord

[Brian in SLC]

. Just for discussion, when rappeling double and you can't see the bottom how are you comfortable that both ends are on the ground? If one isn't reaching your screwed.

Match both ends prior to toss. Then, at least you have the best chance with all your rope deployed.

And, folks usually aren't "comfortable" until the point where you can see both ends are down.

That's why its important to be able to correct the situation on the fly. To be able to stop, pull up the ends, and figure out if enough rope is available. Or, know that no matter how far you go down, that you could get back up to the anchor if need be.

Actually had this happen recently rock climbing in Red Rocks. We were doing the Friar, which is to the right of Solar Slab gully (Oak Creek trailhead). I'd gone to the right to finish the second pitch, so, didn't see the fixed rappel anchor. So, when we were done, and rappelling the third pitch, I had no idear where the anchor was, and, was pretty sure our ropes wouldn't reach the ground on the climber's left side of the tower. But, I thought it was worth lookin' at. So, tossed 'em down, went down far enough to see the ends just dancin' in the air, with a good 40 feet or more air below to the deck, and I just jugged back up the rope (ahem, using just my ATC as an ascender, a highly dubious but very expedient technique that I wouldn't recommend to anyone). Surfed around a bit, and, realizing that we could go a couple of other ways, I finally found the anchor (pretty hidden if you had missed it on the way up like we did). So we finished up no problemo.

I think folks can develop an eye for rappelling distance too, with experience. I kinda always play the "lets see if I can guess the distance" game. I get to a drop, pay out one end of rope, toss it, and see how close to the ground I get. After awhile (and I'm probably kiddin' myself), I think I get pretty accurate with rope distance v rappel distance. I can usually look down a drop and estimate the distance.

Anyhoo, there's a bunch of tricks that some folks use on the fly, etc, too. Some not without risk. See above. Ha ha.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[bruce from bryce]

Why do people rappel from the wrong side of a biner block? Because they are from a different sport category and have neer seen this before.

Case in point: 2-3 summers ago we were going through Keyhole during a night expedition. Two groups combined to make a large group. Leader of other group heads off to lead the attack on the canyon. Two of 'HIS' people were climbers but had never done canyons. At the first rappel of the canyon I decided that I would be the 'safety' person and watched as everyone hooked up to rappel. These two individuals set up their rappel devices (figure 8s) and were ready to begin the rappel when I stopped them both and asked if they were confident with their setup. Both responded in the positive and thought they were ready to go. I asked them again but when I received the same answer I told them to de-rig their rappel device and try again. Neither of them understood what my concerns were and were ready to 'again' rig on the wrong side of the biner block.
Moral of the Story: people who are new to canyoneering may not be familiar with your method of blocking a rappel. So they need guidance to get in correct the first time.