Red Spur Canyon March 2014

[WorkBad]

29 March 2014, we decided to venture down Red Spur Canyon. Total time including the South Fork option (labeled “Optional Loop” on the photo below) was 8.5 hours. Technical gear used included a 100ft rope, 110ft pull cord, an assortment of hooks, pot shots and other pothole escape tools, plus plenty of webbing and other hardware. Compared to other canyons in the area, Red Spur felt like a step up in a technical sense. First, there’s the hook rappel which we defeated by connecting the retrieval cord on the hook that was looped through a potshot up canyon. Everyone was backed up using a meat anchor except the last person. Second, the optional South Fork has some no-joke stemming. IMHO people should only attempt the optional South Fork if they are in great shape. Here’s why… The last section of the South Fork is especially tight and vertical, providing almost no foot/hand holds. The section I’m talking about is short, maybe 50 feet but MAN it’s a challenge. One member of the group slipped and got stuck in this last section which required rescue in the form of rope/aiders from above. Then after getting him free he managed to slip back down again but very close to the exit. This time we used stacked helmets to give just the right amount of height to get his body free. Huge props to him for remaining calm the entire time, phew! Overall we enjoyed this canyon a lot and it’s easily the best canyon in the vicinity. We will be back.

Excellent beta obtained from www.climb-utah.com

Enjoy the photos!

Overvie


Detail




First drop, bypassed


Scenery




Hook rap




Exiting the first section of Red Spur, just before South Fork Confluence


"Top" of South Fork slot


Scenery












The rescue


At the exit of South Fork slot, used helmet to boost friend


Scenery






Back in Red Spur proper


Scenery










End of the road, now back up to the rim and out

[Iceaxe]

I think Red Spur is one of the best canyons in the Roost. I'm really surprised it hasn't become more popular. I think the fact that it's a step up in skill and has a hook rappel scares many away.

[hikster11]

Sweet TR. I like this canyon but I remember wishing that I didn't bring so much stuff. Dragging my pack between the walls sucked. Did you do the optional loop? I remember it having some tight spots.

[skiclimb3287]

This was my first Roost canyon. Loved it. Was with @hikster11. The hook placement is almost too bomber. Can be tricky to get your hook back!

[WorkBad]

Sombeech is in the process of fixing this and other TRs that I've submitted. I know It may seem like I'm a little drunk when I quit typing mid sentence but trust me it's not just the booze. I'll wait until he's done doing his part and then explain a rescue that happened in Red Spur South Fork. To be continued...

[qedcook]

Sombeech is in the process of fixing this and other TRs that I've submitted. I know It may seem like I'm a little drunk when I quit typing mid sentence but trust me it's not just the booze. I'll wait until he's done doing his part and then explain a rescue that happened in Red Spur South Fork. To be continued...

What a teaser... I demand details now!

[Walden]

How does the squeezing in Red Spur compare to Alcatraz? I’ve done Alcatraz and loved all the down climbing, but at 6’-5” and 250 lb, I was not a fan of the all squeezing in Alcatraz. Red spur has been on my list to do, so I’m just trying to see if it’s a canyon for me.

[Iceaxe]

I'll wait until he's done doing his part and then explain a rescue that happened in Red Spur South Fork. To be continued...

Is this what they mean by cliff hanger?!?

[Iceaxe]

How does the squeezing in Red Spur compare to Alcatraz? I’ve done Alcatraz and loved all the down climbing, but at 6’-5” and 250 lb, I was not a fan of the all squeezing in Alcatraz. Red spur has been on my list to do, so I’m just trying to see if it’s a canyon for me.

If you can do Alcatraz you can easily do Red Spur, in Red Spur it's easy to go up when you have to. If fat guys are going to have issues there will be a big easy to see warning in my route description.

[WorkBad]

Alright, this TR has been repaired and is ready to be re-shared with everyone. The rescue that I eluded to earlier wasn't too crazy but one of our guys definitely got stuck and needed a hand from above. The "Victim" was a strong guy but slipped on the slick wall down into an area where self rescue wasn't a option.

As far as the discussion concerning how tough Alcatraz is compared to Red Spur. I'm 6'2" ~205lbs and didn't find either of these canyons tight overall. There is the crux move in Alcatraz that is easy to ascend up and go over.

[Iceaxe]

There is the crux move in Alcatraz that is easy to ascend up and go over.

Everyone has to do the crux move in Alcatraz, even the smurf's.

[WorkBad]

Everyone has to do the crux move in Alcatraz, even the smurf's.

True, I was more or less commenting on the nature of the obstacle and how it's easier to go higher than to stay low. Yea, definitely not possible to avoid it altogether.

[goofball]

second the opinion on the optional loop ! there is an easy (in my opinion), but quite high , stem that then forces you down when it flares out. after which is 50' or so of impossible-to-squeeze-thru-the-bottom-unless-your-a-smurf tightness. then it opens wide. i am not a climber, would not have done this AT ALL if i had known beforehand. after about 10' past the flare i lost traction and slid to the bottom. fortunately it was not too skinny yet to be a wedge. partners went high to drop a rope but said it was not possible for where i was at, cliffed out and inaccessible. i was not feeling it, did not want to get high enough again to try stemming and then lose it in a really bad place that was too tight to move. so after some mild sissy'ing, some cussing and self berating, and getting some knee/elbow pads, i was able to get, and STAY, high enough to make the last bit and not die. was not fun at all. totally sucked. so if you are not a competent and confident serious canyon stemmer, reconsider. better safe than stuck. extrication if you got wedged in too tight will be a reeeeeal bitch.

otherwise a fantastic canyon !