Imlay Canyon

[bhalvers2002]

Imlay Canyon
Thursday, April 17, 2014

All I can say is Imlay Canyon lived up to the hype. It is beautiful, long, unforgiving and unforgettable.

Executive summary: Water was cold, pools mostly full, climbing and partner assists sufficient for pothole escapes, 13 hours car to car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlTYOZ450BE

Our group of four left the Grotto just after 7am and via the Left Sneak arrived at the Crossroads around 11am. The temperature before the sun rose was in the low 50s as we made our way to Scout Lookout for our first stop. The skies were clear and remained sunny throughout the day with temps reaching the high-70s on the main canyon floor. We decided to do the Left Sneak and found the route easy from a bushwhacking point of view, but still quite a slog up over the big pass and down steeply into Imlay. One section of steep downclimbing required the use of an existing handline, which was helpful. Once at the Crossroads, we ate lunch, suited up and headed into the narrows making our first downclimb just before noon.

Our preparations started months ago with the idea that if snow pack remained low and the Narrows CFS conditions permitted, we could push for an Imlay day even in April. The conditions cooperated. We anticipated the water would be very cold - check. Three of us wore 7 mm wetsuits (yes they were heavy) with both a 7 mm farmer john and 7 mm jacket - so the core was 14 mm. We also wore 5 mm neoprene socks and some in our group wore 3-5mm neoprene gloves. I wore Atlas Thermafit gloves over a pair of yellow dishwashing gloves (no looks were not too important...). I liked my set up; not only did my hands remain warm, but also my fingers had good dexterity. One in our group wore a drysuit. Everyone stayed warm in what we estimated to be around 40F water.

Turns out we brought too much gear, but wanted to be on the safe side. We lugged 2 - 200' ropes, 1 - 120' and 1 - 60' ropes. Besides the final 2 raps, we leapfrogged the two smaller ropes. We brought 2 talons, 2 etriers, a grappling hook, one potshot, drilling gear, 150' paracord, 100' webbing and other anchor building hardware. Some of us had neoprene hoods and extra gloves as well. We didn't use any of these items - the water was high enough that partner assists or climbing out was sufficient without other aiders. One of the aspects of this canyon I did not appreciate was how often I was lifting, tugging, hoisting, tossing, kicking and carrying my pack. And it keeps coming at you again and again. There are so many awkward starts off logjams and places to crawl up the other side - you do NOT want a heavy pack . That issue was compounded by an error properly sealing my main drybag - all my extra clothes got soaked and when combined with wet extra neoprene gloves, hood and 200' rope - really added to the weight . This became a drag as the hours progressed.

It did not appear anyone had been through Imlay in a while, however, the webbing and anchors in most spots looked decent, especially in the lower section of the extreme narrows. The "Star Wars" section or log soup area was full of water and logs and the climb out, about 20 feet over an unstable logjam, was unsettling. Each handhold and step needed to be triple checked for fear of half the wall collapsing. As the series of logjam raps progressed, I ended up removing my personal anchor device from harness and placing in my bag after catching it one too many times on outreaching sticks. This may not be protocol, but I didn't pull it back out until some of the final raps in the lower section where the ledge is for 1-2 people max.

We made it through the first set of extreme narrows in about 3.5 hours and then took a 30 minute break. The final narrows section is worth the price. The succession of raps and climbs into pool after dark pool is impressive. The water was clear, black (deep) and cold. My respect for those who have done this in much lower water conditions is high. The 3rd to last rap sequence is a 2 stage rappel that could be much harder than we had it. We rapped off the RDC anchor into a pool and shimmied up a massive, slippery log and continued into the next pool. The 2nd to last rap (60 feet+?) into a fluted slot welcomed by a long, dark pool was impressive. By this time, the sound of water rushing far below after 6 hours in the slots was heartening. The final rap is both intense and amazing. I was thrilled and relieved to have my feet land on the deck in the Narrows. We were back to the car at the Grotto about 8 pm.

This was a great canyon and it took a lot more energy, both mental and physical than I contemplated. We had good teamwork, rope management and even though everyone is in good physical condition, everyone was tired. Great partners - makes all the difference. If I had to doing anything differently I would not take so much extra stuff and would double check my dry bag. It comes to personal preference, but taking 1 200' rope with a pull cord makes just as much sense - our group happens to typically rap double strand. I would not skimp on the pothole escape equipment/tools because the problems become quite difficult as the water recedes. Do not underestimate the "toll" taken solving some of these potholes without a plan and resources. I would also do this on more than 4 hours of sleep (not much of a choice for a couple of us arriving from out of town around midnight on this occasion).

I want thank the canyoneering community for the beta, tips and insight. It was helpful in visualizing and preparing for this canyon. I have attached what I believe is an incomplete video of the trip (some will argue already too long), but the gopro was "full" before the last extreme narrows. Looks like we will have to do it again....

[oldno7]

Great report.
Next time do a "full" Imlay, you'll never do either sneak again.

[ratagonia]

Good on ya!

"Turns out we brought too much gear, but wanted to be on the safe side. We lugged 2 - 200' ropes, 1 - 120' and 1 - 60' ropes."

Longest rap in the canyon, the last is 110 feet. Second longest rap is 65' (just before the alcove). So your remuda of ropes seems a very odd choice, especially since you were so well prepared otherwise.

What were you thinking? Super-extra caution? I see you figured out that having extra (not-useful) stuff is a substantial burden!

"Next time do a "full" Imlay, you'll never do either sneak again."

Yeah. Personally, I do the Full once every two years or so, just to remember how ordinary the upper canyon is.

Tom

[WorkBad]

Very good read, thanks for sharing!

[bhalvers2002]

2 200 ropes was simply a comfort level doing double strand and wasn't sure the last rap was 110 or 140. Also didn't think about weight enough and next time won't make that mistake.

[Iceaxe]

and wasn't sure the last rap was 110 or 140.

This is just one of the differences between using good reliable beta from a trusted source compared to something you just pulled off the web.

Good beta can save you a lot of work and time.


Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[oldno7]

Yeah. Personally, I do the Full once every two years or so, just to remember how ordinary the upper canyon is.

Tom

I'd much rather be in an "ordinary" canyon, canyoneering, than hiking the left or right sneak, any day.

[TommyBoy]

The upper portion is also very scenic, something the sneak route is lacking. The car shuttle kinda sucks though, and I'm too cheap to pay someone to take me up.

[zul]

Can anyone confirm that 2x120 rope will handle Imlay? There is plenty of conflicting information ranging from 110-130-140ft?!?

I can't figure out if the canyon is getting deeper or the storys are getting taller?!!

Thanks! zul

[Taylor]

Yes, a 120' rope will be long enough for the final rap, which is the longest, IF you use the RIGHT sneak approach route. The final rap is actually 110' into the narrows.

[Iceaxe]

Yes sir..... 110' is correct.

[Taylor]

Certainly if everyone just used Climb-Utah beta, there wouldn't be "conflicting reports" on rap lengths.