Poe Canyon

[Taylor]

5/25/2013

I wake up in the desert, it's early, just light enough to see without turning on a headlamp. The first thing I notice is that I was actually sleeping- that seemed unlikely last evening as thoughts raced about what we would attempt today. The second thing I notice is that I can't see out of my right eye. In fact, I can't open it. What the hell? Eye boogers stuck the lid shut? I reach up and feel my swollen lid, pry it open. Not good. It won't stay open on its own. Seriously, some critter decided to munch on my eyelid while I slept. Not exactly how I wanted to begin what could be, for me, the longest, most challenging, perhaps dangerous day of canyoneering to date.

It's interesting how learning new skills or having new experiences can make you can look at something that is familiar in a totally different way. For about 20 years, we have been going to Lake Powell to camp, boat, do the stuff you do at Powell. Early on, when the water was high, we were jet-skiers and would camp on the shore near the Burr Trail. Later we knew people with boats, then later we had our own and began to camp farther from the ramp/marina. But mostly we camp in Halls. On the west side, at the base of the Waterpocket Fold. For a few years now, as an avid, perhaps obsessed canyoneer, I have been looking at that familiar slope and thinking about slots. Nobody else on the beach or in the boats care, not even my canyon partner and wife, but I look at the Fold and wonder: what's up there?

Then about a year ago I was looking at Bob's Super Amazing Canyoneering Map, specifically the Lake Powell area and: bingo! three markers just up Hall's Creek from the Lake. Not exactly near our usual camping beaches but not too far either. Some poking around on the web for beta revealed very little, compared to what we normally have when planning a canyon trip. No Climb-Utah, Tom's or Luke's. Just one Summit Post entry, some blogged trip reports and some years-old discussion on the Bog. What was evident was that Poe/Smiling Cricket was/is a BIG DEAL, with a couple BIG potholes. I was obsessed with the idea of descending Poe. I'm sure I spent more time reading and rereading stories about Poe than the time it took to actually do the canyon. Kind of pathetic really. But that's my way when it comes to BIG DEAL canyons.

My wife Laura has no interest in these kind of trips. She is my normal canyon partner and we do most trips together. She is a rappel junkie, expert at getting out of potholes and is smurf-sized so she handles the skinnies well. However, she's not interested in big climbs to get to the start of a canyon nor interested in carrying a big pack. Early on she expressed negative interest in doing Poe. Since I needed a some partners, I decided to ask the friend that introduced me to canyoneering.

Keith is the brother of two of my brothers-in-law. Yes, my wife's sisters married two brothers. I ride mountain bikes with those guys, kind of a lot. After years of listening to Keith's stories about canyoneering, he finally took me on a trip. About five years ago we did a combo weekend of The Squeeze and Quandary direct. That was my intro to the sport. Keith's family and friends are kind of old-timers or pioneers in the sport. I don't think anyone on the Bog knows who they are but that's not really relevant. They have been doing this for a long time. The friend that showed them their first canyons was the first to register Englestead at the back country desk. We haven't done many trips together, we both have our own family and friends we take separately but we seem to do BIG DEAL canyons together. Heaps, Imlay and now Poe are what we have seen together since that first trip. We also ran Ragnar as an Ultra team, for whatever that's worth. Someday maybe we'll just go do Pine Creek for a change of pace. But probably not. Last Thanksgiving I asked Michele(Keith's wife) if they had heard of Poe Canyon. They hadn't. I said Google it. They did and agreed we needed to do it.

We set the date and talked about who would want to join us. Keith and Michele, their son Wilson and his new wife Megan. Friends Kent and Chris want in. Kent's son Nash was coming but couldn't get off work. The team is set and we are seven: Keith is THE MAN. Michele is bada**. Has run 50 marathons. Expert climber and canyoneer. Their son Wil climbs 5.13 and will be our rope gun. He and Megan were married this year, she is working on a 5.12 problem and will be the extra lightweight rope gun. Kent has a huge canyon resume and was on the Heaps team. Lastly Chris, whom I meet the morning of the trip, has been doing canyons the longest, is the one who first did Englestead. I am aware that I'm the weak link in this group but I have the plan, the maps and gps, passion and rudimentary WFR skills. I would feel safe going anywhere, tackle any summit or canyon with this team.

We left Cedar Hills Thursday morning, headed for the trail head on Hall's Mesa. We used Shane's beta for Happy Dog Canyon to get us close to Poe and made base camp at the mouth of Millers Creek. According to my gps it was a full 10 mile backpack to get there with 45-50 lb packs. We took about 5.5 hours to get to camp.

We started for Poe early on Friday but not early enough as we would discover that evening. The approach up to the drop-in point begins about a mile south of Millers Creek. Climbing up the fold, it is a maze of fins and domes but not too difficult with a gps track to follow. We have the drop-in way point that Goofball posted on Summit Post and find the bleached webbing around some large stones. Looking up canyon from there, I can see a string of potholes that look fun if we could get there. We climb a little higher, looking for another drop or walk-in but as the clock is ticking, and knowing what is below us, we go back and re rig at the first drop. It is comforting to know that we are in the right place, or at least we are where other canyoneers have been. The drop in is 200', vertical, fast and fun. Just down canyon the potholes begin. A few of us take off as soon as we are down, knowing we can't stay bunched up all day if we want to finish before dark. There is water almost immediately and we go ahead and suit up. Most wore shorty suits as it is warm/hot weather and the sun will be shining into the canyon bottom at times. We started to count potholes but soon gave up/forgot. Many pots were dry, a few were waist deep, only a couple were swimmers. The canyon essentially has some of every obstacle one could encounter. Old bolts, keeper pots, small raps, bigger raps, raps with no anchors, down climbs, up climbs, even one skinny spot too deep and dark to see well. But mostly potholes. Lots of potholes. We used shoulder stands, two person elevators, pack tosses etc. The sandtrap was invaluable, kudos to the inventors of that awesome tool. And kudos to us for buying one the week before the trip and learning how to use it in the canyon. Wil carried a bolt kit but we never took it out of the pack, in fact I still don't know what it looks like.

If you have read about Poe, you know about the Pit of Despair. Near the end of the canyon is perhaps the most difficult pothole obstacle to be found anywhere on the Colorado Plateau. It is about 20' across at its top and about 30' deep. The entrance is a v-shaped slot that is off angle to the main line of the canyon. It enters the left edge of the pot and you can imagine the water shooting in, swirling furiously. Picture filling up a 5 gallon bucket with a garden hose on jet spray, aimed at the inside edge of the curve. Now magnify thousands, millions? of times in volume and I think I understand how this beast was formed. Fortunately, it is not raining and there is no furious swirling. By coincidence, I am at the front of the line and see it first. Immediately I stem up and take the position seen in the first photo on David Wallace's blog about Poe. Looking across, beyond the exit, it is a nearly flat floor, perhaps 10' wide and 20' before a drop down and left around a corner. The water level is hard to determine from here but appears to be shallow enough to stand, not a swimmer. Those who have descended Poe before us have used various methods to overcome the Pit. The first descenders drilled holes to hook and aid climb over and around the pit on the right side. Two of their bolts and hangers are still on the wall up high, one above the entrance crack and one centered over the Pit. One could climb up and use the bolts to traverse, swing over to the other side. Climbing up to those bolts is an option but they are 32 years old now. We have also come prepared with pot shots and the option to throw a few across and try to climb out the ropes, hand over hand. My first impression is: that's a long damn way to throw a bag of sand. Looking up, I think I could climb up to the first bolt if my life depended...and if I could, Wil certainly can. I back out of the crack and ask Keith, Wil, Chris to take a look and see what they think. If Wil will do it, we will figure a way to provide a belay. The decision is made and we set up. Short story, it worked. Wil landed safely on the far side after about an hour from when we first got to the Pit. Another hour had all of us up and out. Many more details can be shared if anyone is interested.

Again, if you've read about Poe, you know about the Wart Pothole. Soon after the Pit of Despair, we arrive at the last obstacle. It is only about 10' across but perhaps 40' deep. Don't go in there. It has a similar v-shaped entrance and a flat section on the far side. High on the wall above the pot, left side, is a "wart" of stone about the size of a couple basketballs. Others have slung the wart and used it to rap/traverse/swing across to the flat on the far side. The problem is there is little to keep the sling from coming off, the wart could crack or fall off and it is up high, needing new slingage and someone to set the rap ropes. Michele goes up, Wil follows and they rig us up. We provide a safety line from up canyon to arrest a fall into the pit in case the wart/sling fails. Keith goes first with Michele monitoring the wart from above. It works and we all eventually make it across.

After the Wart, a 30' then a 150' rappel are all that's left and we are down and out of Poe. The last two rapped in full dark by headlamp. We spent about 11 hours in the canyon and would arrive back at camp about 15 hours after we left. My swollen eye eventually mellowed, thanks to Chris's bottle of Benedryl. Saturday morning we lazily packed up and headed back up Grand Gulch. On the way back, a few of us detoured through Halls Creek Narrows, making the return hike 12 miles and 8 hours.

I don't think any one on the team besides me are Bogley members. But if they read this report, I want to thank them all for helping me make a canyoneering dream trip a success. We will probably never go back, unless the lake fills up, making the approach considerably shorter. It was epic and awesome. Here are some photos.

[ilipichicuma]

Awesome! That canyon is very much on my list.

[nelsonccc]

Very Cool. Good job and great TR!

[Slot Machine]

The decision is made and we set up. Short story, it worked. Wil landed safely on the far side after about an hour from when we first got to the Pit. Another hour had all of us up and out. Many more details can be shared if anyone is interested.

I am interested. Shoot.. what canyoneer WOULDN'T be interested?

GREAT TR! Thanks for sharing! Congratulations to you and your group!

Also, what is going on in pic #17, where Will (?) appears to be hanging from a bolt/sling, high up on the canyon wall?

[Iceaxe]

Sweeeeeettttt.....

[ghawk]

Awesome!! I will do this one day! Great work!

[jman]

Congrats man! That's pretty amazing.

The critter got yer eye good! ...perfect timing on a epic canyon of course.

[oldno7]

Outstanding TR

[penmartens]

Congrats on a terrific trip and great TR. That is one of the best descriptions I have heard for that canyon. How super awesome that it was a family outing. I am glad to see more people getting into that area and back out of the canyons safely.
So, what did you think of the many old bolts in there?

Penny

[Scott Card]

Great report. Thanks for the info. How hot of a day was it? What time did you leave camp for starting Poe? (I am considering this canyon in about three weeks. I am trying to gauge start times, wet suit type/thickness and any info from you would help.) How did those in shorty wet suits do for those wearing them with the water temps and the stemming? Thanks.

[yetigonecrazy]

badass! nice TR, thanks so much for sharing

[JennyMae]

Wow, Taylor!
You guys and gals are good. I see several of your team was wearing sandals; impressive. I noted too, the climbing shoes to ascend the wall to pass the big pit (of potential despair); good planning.
I thought you might find this little historical tidbit of interest: Most folks that have been in that place believe the blank holes to be "hook holes". In fact, they were carefully drilled bolt holes that held custom made expandable/retrievable bolts. Someone (I don't recall who) later used these old holes to hook their way up to the high bolts that we used to pendulum across the pit. So now those holes are blown out and I can see why they appear as hook holes.
I've never seen the water that low. Some obstacles were more difficult, I suspect? Some were made easier? I've never seen the bottom of what is being called the Wart Pit, that would be sumptin'!
It is apparent that your team included the whole skill set to make it a wonderful adventure. I'd love to hear more about your passage. Contact me on the side, if you like, eh?
Congratulations.
Jenny

[spinesnaper]

Is this the mother of all technical canyons!! Great report.

Ken

[Byron]

Hey Taylor! It's too bad you didn't catch my trip report about a month ago titled "Shorcut to Cliff"...it would have saved you HOURS on the approach and exit. I made it to Happy Dog, which as you know is just upstream from Poe, in just 2.5 hours after I left my truck.

Outstanding trip report! I'm game to do this canyon with anyone else (experienced) that's game as well. I'm a pretty good climber, and could probably do the route above the Pit. Those pictures have me all jacked up now!

[Mountaineer]

Excellent trip report! Congratulations! Dedication and full on discovery in finding and doing Poe with such vague information.

Really liked the details and descriptions, the best I've seen/read on this canyon by far. So how did you escape the pit, you climbed to the bolt and pendulum swinged across?

The wart sling sounds really precarious. I wonder when/who will experience a failure there.

Put my name on the growing list of those who want to go. Sounds like there are a bunch of us out there.

[Mark Schnupp]

Hey Taylor! It's too bad you didn't catch my trip report about a month ago titled "Shorcut to Cliff"...it would have saved you HOURS on the approach and exit. I made it to Happy Dog, which as you know is just upstream from Poe, in just 2.5 hours after I left my truck.

Outstanding trip report! I'm game to do this canyon with anyone else (experienced) that's game as well. I'm a pretty good climber, and could probably do the route above the Pit. Those pictures have me all jacked up now!

Byron,

I would love some more info (GPS coords if you have them) on the short cut route from the Notom/BF road to Halls Creek. Last year when we did Happy Dog I kept looking at the cliffs on the east side of Halls thinking that if I could find a way down them I would short cut across exactly where you did. So, any beta you can contribute to the cause would be helpful. I would like to get back down there and finish Poe and Babboon, but am not interested in doing that slog down Halls again.

Feel free to hit me at mark(period)schnuppATgmail.com.

Thanks for posting this info up. You saved me a couple of days of exploration.


OP - Great write-up. Thanks for sharing. I can't believe you guys did it in sandals. Knock it off...you're making the rest of us look bad!;-)

MS

[moab mark]

Excellent TR. Thanks Beech move this thread to the front page.

[Slot Machine]

Excellent TR. Thanks Beech move this thread to the front page.

@Sombeech <--- typing this is like sending the Beech bat-signal.

Good idea Mark. X2

[Moose Droppings]

wow...way to get out the front door and get after it.

I'm sure I spent more time reading and rereading stories about Poe than the time it took to actually do the canyon. Kind of pathetic really. But that's my way when it comes to BIG DEAL canyons...

i find humor in this statement, because its very true for pretty much every canyon i wander through...


good photo doc of the crux bypass. thanks for the share.

[Byron]

PMs sent to those who requested beta.