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Thread: Which knot to use when two ropes are connected and "lower" contingency setting

  1. #1

    Which knot to use when two ropes are connected and "lower" contingency setting

    I often go with beginners and set a releasable figure8 block for contingency options. Often, we'll have a long rappel that requires connecting two ropes together. In order to avoid "passing a knot" when activating this contingency plan, I set the knot connecting the two ropes below the anchor point (i.e. load is on the knot). In the link below (min. 2:28), Rich C suggests to use "retreaded-figure8" or "double fisherman" bend in such situation, but I was wondering if using a square-fisherman bend (image posted below) is also ok (I would think so, but want to hear from the experts).
    I know it has more chance of getting stuck, but the reason I prefer this knot sometimes is because it's very easy to construct as well as easy to undo.

    ​​ (min 2:28)


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  3. #2
    Mountain Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Heart: Escalante. Reality: CO
    I'm far from an expert, but I've always used a double edk, at 4:55.

  4. #3
    If I'm just tying two ropes together so I can rap on one and use the other to retrieve I use a simple overhand knot.

    If I'm tying two ropes together because one is not long enough I use a rethreaded figure 8, or a rethreaded figure 8 with a bright so I can tie off while passing the knot.

    KISS is my golden rule when canyoneering.

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