Report-Another Rappelling Death

[Scott P]

Be careful out there and make sure to check your anchors (and each other).

http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com/news/poor-rappel-setup-led-to-asu-students-fatal-fall-7468789

Instead of a straightforward anchor, Conrad and another student set up an anchor often used in canyoneering called a "biner block."

First, a piece of webbing with a metal link was secured to a large rock. One end of the trio's climbing rope ran through the link and was then attached by a clove-hitch knot to a carabiner. That left about 10 feet of rope free at the top; the rest of the rope was thrown off the edge of Coon Bluff to use for the rappel.

We won't get into detail here on exactly how the biner block works. However, as another canyoneering web site teaches — with capital letters for emphasis — "it is VERY IMPORTANT that it is PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE for the blocking knot or carabiner to pull through the" metal link.

No one besides the three women inspected the anchor before they began rappelling at about 11 a.m. The first two students, including Jessica Jia, Conrad's best friend, made it down successfully. They were lucky, it seems.

By herself at the top, Conrad walked off the cliff edge and began her descent. The end of the rope came free from the anchor and Conrad began free-falling. People in the area heard a sudden scream. A man on the other side of the river yelled, "Oh my God, she fell!"

Conrad slammed into a lower part of the cliff, her shattered body coming to rest upside down in a tree. She'd been wearing a helmet at the time, but it wrenched to one side when she hit her head. The entire length of the orange climbing rope had fallen with her. Her injuries were "severe," the report states.

Clarissa Chapman, a medic who was training nearby with the PCSO team, was among the first at the scene. She saw that Conrad wasn't breathing and didn't have a pulse. Chapman and the PCSO team members tried CPR, oxygen and a defibrillator, but nothing could save the student.

[oldno7]

In--before someone says, KISS

[Iceaxe]

KISS

[Renatomic808]

Why would you break it up into 3 sub groups of beginner, intermediate, and advanced? Should always have someone with experience around newbies. really sad for her, and her loved ones.

[jman]

Edit: nevermind. Figured it out.

[Sombeech]

So what happened, did the biner pull through, or did she rappel down the wrong end?

[Iceaxe]

Official investigation is still pending but it appears the knot (clove hitch) that attaches the biner to the rope was not tied correctly as a properly tied clove hitch should not fail. The puzzling part seems to be that Kathryn was third in line, which means the two people before her played Russian Roulette and the hammer fell on an empty cylinder.... click... your turn...

What is known:

The rope came down with Katelyn and she was still attached to the rope by her ATC when she hit the ground.

The carabiner used for the biner block was found on the ground next to the anchor and the gate was still locked.

[Renatomic808]

I wonder of they might have tied a munter instead of a clove.

[Iceaxe]

That would make a lot of sense, particularly if someone attempted to set up a contingency anchor of some type and didn't properly block the release.

[ratagonia]

I wonder of they might have tied a munter instead of a clove.

Sounds like they tried to tie a clove and came up with a munter. I've seen 'experts' do this. Pressed against the rock in one configuration, a munter will lock. Another configuration, not lock. Or lock for a bit, then release.

[jman]

Is this the only "clove-hitch" (as far as we know) related fatality in the sport that we are aware of?

I just don't see the clove-hitch ever failing, unless stated above if it was a munter.


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[hank moon]

I just don't see the clove-hitch ever failing, unless stated above if it was a munter.

[qedcook]

It's true, I don't trust the clove hitch anymore, I haven't for a while when I saw this type of thing happening in practice.

[ratagonia]

It's true, I don't trust the clove hitch anymore, I haven't for a while when I saw this type of thing happening in practice.

I converted to the triple clove when:

1. I set up the rappel with normal clove hitch, rapped down.

2. The rest of the party rapped down.

3. I saw Ram's pictures a couple weeks later, and his pic of someone going over the edge clearly showed the clove hitch had walked to the curve in the carabiner and had the possibility of "running". Thankfully it did not.

Tom

[qedcook]

I converted to the triple clove when:

1. I set up the rappel with normal clove hitch, rapped down.

2. The rest of the party rapped down.

3. I saw Ram's pictures a couple weeks later, and his pic of someone going over the edge clearly showed the clove hitch had walked to the curve in the carabiner and had the possibility of "running". Thankfully it did not.

Tom

I've learned that before I will trust any knot, I have three or four beginners tie it for me in a practice scenario. That will usually show you most of the ways the knot can go wrong. I always tied the clove hitch wrong, but when I let other people start to tie it, I noticed the knot slipping over the curve and not holding right.

[CanyonFreak]

I converted to the triple clove when:

1. I set up the rappel with normal clove hitch, rapped down.

2. The rest of the party rapped down.

3. I saw Ram's pictures a couple weeks later, and his pic of someone going over the edge clearly showed the clove hitch had walked to the curve in the carabiner and had the possibility of "running". Thankfully it did not.

Tom

Regarding the video: Although this video shows a "failure" of the clove hitch it is also not properly dressed. Try not dressing any knot tight and neat like taught and your'e likely to have a failure or unintended consequence at some point.

It is alarming to think of the clove walking but...I'm more concerned with the fact someone gets onto rappel without visual inspecting and re-evaluating the anchor they are about to rap off. If someone lacks the diligence to pay attention to all details for the few moments in a canyon we are doing technical work, even the simplest system might not keep them safe in the long run.

[jman]

Regarding the video: Although this video shows a "failure" of the clove hitch it is also not properly dressed. Try not dressing any knot tight and neat like taught and your'e likely to have a failure or unintended consequence at some point.

It is alarming to think of the clove walking but...I'm more concerned with the fact someone gets onto rappel without visual inspecting and re-evaluating the anchor they are about to rap off. If someone lacks the diligence to pay attention to all details for the few moments in a canyon we are doing technical work, even the simplest system might not keep them safe in the long run.

I was about to reply to Hanks video but you did a good job in summarizing my thoughts as well.

While the clove-hitch has worked perfectly for my gang and I for the last 14 years without incidence, it is good to see the potential of the clove hitch coming undone. Something the entire canyoneering family should be aware of.

And the suggestion for the triple-clove is probably best for the masses. It is simple and just takes 2 more seconds to add the other loop and make it more secure.


But yes, I agree 100% with the root of the problem (and NOT being the knot or hitch itself) being the inspection of the knot. My group and I personally inspect and test (weight) the anchor and knots before every rappel. There can't be any room for complacency.

"Leaders" of any group need to pound this issue at every rap to every rappeller (noobs to vets) to the point of annoyance (essentially).

This should be canyoneering 101....(hmm speaking of which...that reminds me of something...)


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[gootwan]

Maybe I'm missing something... but if there was only a 10ft tail out of the clove, and she was the last person rapping, how were they planning on getting the rope down?

[Iceaxe]

I would NOT call that a clove hitch, you can make anything fail if you are willing to manipulate the parameters enough.

YMMV

[Absolute Gravity]

Maybe I'm missing something... but if there was only a 10ft tail out of the clove, and she was the last person rapping, how were they planning on getting the rope down?

I imagine you just walk back up a trail to the top and retrieve your rope like most places you would practice rappelling.