05/23/15 - Swell - Quandary Direct

[jman]

What a great time through Quandary Direct! 6 people (including myself) hit up Quandary on a glorious sunny, then rainy, then sunny, then rainy day! The rain was a slow but inconsistent spray - until around 10:30pm. Then it rained cat and dogs.

The entire Swell area received varying portions of rain this last weekend, so if you are wanting a WET canyon - then go this weekend (sunny with no precip forecasted) or the next.

Compared to my old TRs, I'll make this one MUCH shorter, except for the pics. There were 2 keepers that were quite muddy and made escaping difficult. A bag-toss was all that was needed to escape.

There was a LOT of mud from the recent rains which made things very entertaining and frustrating when trying to escape. ESPECIALLY in Ramp Canyon (our exit) at the crux obstacle. Tom and Shane's pictures show a even, dry ground underneath the boulder going back a dozen feet or so. This trip that area was probably 3-4 deeper and extremely muddy and slippery. Our best climbers (myself and Dave) got about 1/2 up when our 5.10s just couldn't grip anymore and we ended up sliding down 15ft or so. We had numerous ideas to escape but the 5.6 ledge (I think that's what it was) made it too difficult un-aided.

I found a way underneath the boulder but would not recommend it to anyone. It consisted of worming and inching my back slowly up the wall with my feet on the ceiling in a nearly 320degree angle while holding on to a small finger-hold while transitioning and jumping to the small "birth canal" at the top. We had two people at the bottom spotting me in case I fell (probably 15ft) into their arms (which would of hurt as this was a high angle). After reaching the birth-canal hole, I inched my way down, caught my breath and later assisted and pulled everyone up using a piece of rope. It was tiresome and difficult to say the least. To everyone else - sh*#* fuc#*#$ hole. lol

After that, the rest of the canyon while still muddy and full of water (the deepest in Ramp was chest deep) proved to be insignificant compared to the crux.

All in all - 6 hours total with 6 people.

What a good time!

















































One of the rare sightings of me online. I'm in the front in the white helmet.

[TommyBoy]

What?!!!!! All that build up and no picture of how HARD it was at the muddy ramp? JK I've done it muddy as well and it certainly adds to the difficulty. Nice pics of a fun canyon.

[nkanarik]

Do you have a picture of the 5.6 climb? We did it last week, and we believe it wasn't a 5.6 or we simply went up a different part of the gully

[jman]

I didn't take a pic as I was too busy helping everyone up, but thankfully the one girl in our group did. So Dave is on the left and to the point where he couldn't go any further - safely, he said.



From Toms and Shane's pics of the crux it looks so much easier when it's dry and no covered in mud-snot.

You can see me in the top-right corner, as that's where the hole is where I popped out.

If anyone wants a climbing challenge next time in Ramp, go underneath the boulder and climb through the birth-canal un-aided at the top. But guys probably over 225 will have difficulty squeezing through FYI.

Edit: I know Slot Machine was going to do this yesterday and am curious to see which exit he took and his thoughts on it. It was my first time going up Ramp.

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[nkanarik]

Do you have a picture of the 5.6 climb? We did it last week, and we believe it wasn't a 5.6 or we simply went up a different part of the gully

[jman]

Do you have a picture of the 5.6 climb? We did it last week, and we believe it wasn't a 5.6 or we simply went up a different part of the gully

It is posted above.

[Kuya]

Woah! The huge potholes are full! how would that be....?

[nkanarik]

It is posted above.

Oops...something went wrong with my reply ...Yep...this is it...When we got there, we assessed the consequences of doing it, and decided to ascend a rope from the birth canal side rather than attempt climbing it, since we already had two solid climbers on top, and there was no "safe" way to top belay from the left side. Amazing how decision making changes when you grow older and have a family back home

[jman]

Oops...something went wrong with my reply ...Yep...this is it...When we got there, we assessed the consequences of doing it, and decided to ascend a rope from the birth canal side rather than attempt climbing it, since we already had two solid climbers on top, and there was no "safe" way to top belay from the left side. Amazing how decision making changes when you grow older and have a family back home

That's how we felt too. Similar thinking processes there.

The left side, LUC, was just too slippery and a pack toss wouldn't work well there where anyone felt safe climbing up. The climb wasn't extremely difficult but it was challenging.

I'm glad you guys got through safely.

(I'm sure in dry conditions the left side is probably much more manageable). But either way, hopefully more can be aware of the hole on the right side of the boulder as a alternative option.


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[Slot Machine]

I know Slot Machine was going to do this yesterday and am curious to see which exit he took and his thoughts on it. It was my first time going up Ramp.

We drove right on by during the torrential rainstorm Monday. Our attempt at Cable got shut down on Tuesday was well. Yesterday was no better. I hope anyone in those canyons Mon-Wed had a life raft.

Nice TR! That looked fun, minus the exit. I'll remember not to uplcimb Ramp in muddy conditions.

[spinesnaper]

Great trip report! Awesome pictures.