How to switch from ascend mode to descend mode mid rappel when using MicroTraxion

[nkanarik]

attach rappel device and lock off (below ascenders)
down jumar/ prussic until [rappel] device is loaded
remove ascenders and rappel

Couldn't wait for the weekend to try, so went outside and just tried it. I'm still having hard time with the red text above. I'm not able to load the rappel device and unload the MT with only the Tibloc1 and leg loop connected to it. I'm able to unload the MT when introducing additional hardware like prussic or Tibloc2+sling...... Urggghhh

More hints / Videos are welcome

Have a nice weekend everyone wherever you are

[harness man]

Ti blocks are not easy to release and move down the rope (those nasty little gerbil teeth!).
The Micro traxion and Basic are MUCH easier once you learn how to thumb the triggers.
Of course you have to alternately unweight them to do this.
By this I mean moving the ascenders down without removing them from the rope.

[nkanarik]

I have no problem moving the tiblocs down the rope even if they are ~3'-4' above me. What I'm not getting is how you guys don't use extra HW besides "Tibloc1/Basic/VT+leg loop" and "MT", in order to transition the weight off of the MT into the rappel device.

Bottom line...I know how to transition...just looking for a simpler/easier way with minimal HW

[hank moon]

Couldn't wait for the weekend to try, so went outside and just tried it. I'm still having hard time with the red text above. I'm not able to load the rappel device and unload the MT with only the Tibloc1 and leg loop connected to it. I'm able to unload the MT when introducing additional hardware like prussic or Tibloc2+sling...... Urggghhh

More hints / Videos are welcome

Have a nice weekend everyone wherever you are

Honestly, it sounds as if more familiarization time (i.e. practice) with your equipment would do a lot for your understanding. The best hint I can give at this point is to repeat that it's possible to do the transition without any additional gear, and that you should review the info given and try again (and again...).

You are probably very close to solving this. Put your stuff on rope, hang from the MT, install and lock off your rappel device below it and figure out how to transfer your weight to it using only the Tibloc/footloop/tether setup. Hang there, and focus on that next step, what needs to happen in the moment, instead of trying to map out the entire procedure in advance. There's no shame in trying repeatedly and failing. Lots of value there. Where's the value in asking for the answer to the puzzle? That's just cheating! ;-)

Oh, and when you do fail, ask yourself why you failed, and how you might not fail on the next iteration. It might also help to give us the blow-by-blow specifics as to how you are failing. Writing it out can often lead to insight.

Good luck and please keep us updated.

hank

"If you give a man a fish he is hungry again in an hour. If you teach him to catch a fish you do him a good turn."

[nkanarik]

Thanks Hank...will take on the challenge! I already practiced ~5 transitions today with my (more complicated) method
And to be clear...only gear available to solve this puzzle is:

1. MT + Carabiner to clip
2. Tibloc1+Carabiner to clip + Leg Loop
3. Rappel Device + carabiner to clip (I often use a rappel device extension, but this is a don't care one way or another for this problem I assume)

Hope to come back with good news later this weekend

[hank moon]

nk, re: gear list, normally when ascending there should be a tether between harness and Tibloc. This tether is not necessary to do the transition, but it does give additional options.

And I suppose your "leg loop" is what is commonly called a "foot loop?"

Transitioning to an extended rap device can be more difficult. Suggest mastering the non-extended transition before trying that.

[Canyonbug]

worst case scenario.... you lost everything but the rope you have to ascend... how do you get up that one?

OOh, I know I know!! :)

[hank moon]

OOh, I know I know!! :)

yeah, but you're a guide. You have to "know" with both hands tied behind your back. :)



and blindfolded













and greased rope














and maybe other stuff too

[Mountaineer]

I was thinking that all you have is yourself, harness and the rope. All else was lost. Would it be possible to use just the rope to get up and down the cliff? Free hanging cliff. 30'+

Start with tail. Prusik above, loop to harness,.... tie foot loops as you go.

[Tirrus]

I was thinking that all you have is yourself, harness and the rope. All else was lost. Would it be possible to use just the rope to get up and down the cliff? Free hanging cliff. 30'+

Best case I would want to have both strands of rope without a block at the top, running through a quick link.

I would tie tie into my harness with one strand using a figure 8 follow through, leaving enough tail to tie a blakes hitch with a stopper knot to the other end of the rope. Using foot wraps, on the line with the blakes hitch I would have a 2:1 MA (ideally). Step up, move hitch, sit down, repeat.

-Tirrus

[Kuya]

Rigged this with about 15 feet of tail. Used the end of the rope to make an ascending system. Would need to get a bit more creative in connecting this to a harness with out using a carabiner, but the idea is the same

[nkanarik]

Not sure if this is how you guys do it, but I got it to the point that all I need for a smooth and fast transition is:

1. MT + Carabiner0 to clip
2. Tibloc1+Carabiner1 to clip + Foot Loop / 48" sling
3. Rappel Device + carabiner2 to clip

Ascension Process:

1. Hook up MT to harness with carabiner0 (I'm right handed, and I find it easier to connect the MT so that I pull the rope from it with my left hand...i.e. rope dangling from the left)
2. Hook up Tibloc1 and foot loop to carabiner1 on the rope (above the MT)
   
   1. Optional - I sometime connect a second large carabiner3 to carabiner1, so that I can use it as a handle.
   
   
3. Ascend

Start Transition to descending mode...

1. Get into a sitting position so that tension is on MT
2. Connect rappel device + crabiner2 to the harness and to the dangling rope below the MT and lock off the rappel device.
3. Unlock/Unscrew carabiner0 (the one connected to the MT)
4. Stand up and load Tibloc1, and while it's loaded
   
   1. Unclip the carabiner0+MT from the harness (MT+ carabiner0 are now hanging on the rope)
   2. Go slowly back into sitting position (can use the foot loop as a hold for a smooth transition) so that the rappel device is now loaded
   
   
5. Unclip the MT+carabiner0 and Tibloc1+carabiner1+Foot loop from the rope
6. Unlock rappel device
7. Rappel and continue to the next challenge

After many practices this weekend, I can do this really quickly and with minimal effort.
I did try other things too, but not worth mentioning here.

Feedback is welcome

[Bootboy]

Does anyone here tie a catastrophe knot?

I always tie one about 6' below the business and clip it to my harness. It's the first thing I do after locking off.

[harness man]

Nice job nkanarik!
That is the same sequence I use.
Bootboy- the big-wall style back up knot can never hurt! - though nkanarik has redundancy in his connection to the rope as long as there is a leash on both ascenders

[nkanarik]

Does anyone here tie a catastrophe knot?

I always tie one about 6' below the business and clip it to my harness. It's the first thing I do after locking off.

I do that too, but in this case, i was 4' off the ground and didn't have much extra rope to do that

[ratagonia]

Does anyone here tie a catastrophe knot?

I always tie one about 6' below the business and clip it to my harness. It's the first thing I do after locking off.

We used to call those "Chicken Loops". Often a good idea.

Tom

[hank moon]

Not sure if this is how you guys do it, but I got it to the point that all I need for a smooth and fast transition is: <deletia>

Hey, nice technique! Way to persevere.

Q: may we assume that you normally use a tether between harness and Tibloc, but omitted it in this exercise because _______________ ?

(please fill blank)

[nkanarik]

Hey, nice technique! Way to persevere.

Q: may we assume that you normally use a tether between harness and Tibloc, but omitted it in this exercise because _______________ ?

(please fill blank)

I know you mentioned it in an earlier thread, and was wondering about the necessity of that additional tether between the harness and Tibloc1/Carabiner1...
My thought process below...

• More stability is one rason, but not necessary
• If Tibloc1/carbiner1 fails...that won't do any good
• If Carbiner0/MT fails (before connecting descender)...nothing connect me to the rope...ouch...... (unless I implemented Tom's chicken loop).
• If Carabiner 0/MT fails after I connect the descender, then descender it the backup.

Conclusion: Probably a good practice anyhow to add that additional tether (24" sling) (but not a must, if not handy and implementing the chicken loops)

Right?

Anyhow...I really appreciate your feedback and challenges/quizzes...it got me thinking quite a bit this weekend

[hank moon]

Conclusion: Probably a good practice anyhow to add that additional tether (24" sling) (but not a must, if not handy and implementing the chicken loops)

Right?

Anyhow...I really appreciate your feedback and challenges/quizzes...it got me thinking quite a bit this weekend

Great! Here's another challenge for you (or anyone):

Post up a short + / - list (advantages and disadvantages) of using a tether vs. using chicken loops.

Assumption: you are ascending on an extremely low-stretch canyoneering rope such as BlueWater Canyon Pro (aka Zion Pro).

[nkanarik]

Great! Here's another challenge for you (or anyone):

Post up a short + / - list (advantages and disadvantages) of using a tether vs. using chicken loops.

Assumption: you are ascending on an extremely low-stretch canyoneering rope such as BlueWater Canyon Pro (aka Zion Pro).

I'll start the list :)

Advantage

1. Less shock-load to the system
2. Less messy - Protection is there from the get go...no need to deal with yet another variable such as creating the "chicken loops"
3. If you start with it and find the need for an extra sling during your climb up, you now have one, since you can undo it and transition to the chicken loop method

Disadvantage

1. Using extra gear