How to switch from ascend mode to descend mode mid rappel when using MicroTraxion

[nkanarik]

I was playing around at my backyard with rope ascension, and found it pretty difficult () to switch from ascend mode to descend mode mid rappel, when using the MicroTraxion and was wondering if anyone has a better way.

Ascending setup: MicroTraxion connected directly to my belay loop. Tibloc1 connected to the rope with double foot loops.

Transition Process:

• While tension is on the MicroTraxion, I set up a quick MMO (Munter Mule Overhand) between a carabiner on my Harness-Belay-Loop and Tibloc1.
• My goal now is to remove the tension off of my Microtraxion, which was the problem I was facing.
• Therefore, I introduced Tibloc2 (with a double length sling connected to it) above Tibloc1.
• Once I had Tibloc1 and Tibloc2 setup, I was able to get the tension off of the MicroTraxtion, and from there on it was easy to continue the standard procedure of loading my MMO, disconnecting the MicroTraxion, and connecting my belay device and rappel down (I didn't include a couple steps, which are not relevant to my question).

This was fairly complicated and used a lot of gear, so was wondering if there's an easier way when using a MicroTraxion as part of your ascension set up.

Thanks

[SRG]

My ascent setup is very similar to yours. I also use a Micro Traxion on the belay loop with a Petzl Basic for the top ascender which has a footloop and harness tether attached to it. Here's how I do it.

1) Tie a secondary backup tether with a friction hitch.

2) Stand up in the footloop attached the top ascender. The MicroTraxion automatically slides up the rope, but until I manually snug it up the last few inches, my weight is on the top ascender.

3) With one hand... this part takes practice and is difficult on free rappels... pull back the toothed cam on the Micro Traxion and lock it open so it no longer grabs the rope.

4) Gently sit back until you're hanging off the harness tether on the top ascender.

[nkanarik]

I'll give it another try this weekend. Kind of tried that, but was difficult, so decided to pull out my tibloc2 :).

Thanks!!!

[hank moon]

While hanging from MT, install descender directly below it and tie-off; unlock MT 'biner and go from there...

or

Stand, clip into Tibloc (or existing harness tether) 'biner with a short tether and go from there...

[hank moon]

3) With one hand... this part takes practice and is difficult on free rappels... pull back the toothed cam on the Micro Traxion and lock it open so it no longer grabs the rope.

It might be easier to unclip the MT 'biner from the harness instead of cam manipulation...

[Taylor]

Use prusiks.

[harness man]

Here is one more for you VT prussic fans:
Rig your descender below the MT and lock it off(CRITR works great for this).
Attach the VT prussic above your ascenders.
transfer the back up tether and foot sling from the top ascender to the VT. Remove the top ascender.
Stand up on the VT prussic, make sure it is secure. Remove the MT.
CAREFULLY bump the top of the VT downwards- and slide down until your rappel device is fully weighted.
Unlock your device and continue rappelling sliding the VT along as a back-up.

[nkanarik]

While hanging from MT, install descender directly below it and tie-off; unlock MT 'biner and go from there...

My MT is attached to my harness, so the only thing below it, is the dangling rope. Are you saying I should connect my descender (ATS/CRITR) on that dangling rope, apply the MMO and remove the MT? I'll give it a try too, but just from reading/visualizing it, I'm not sure how it will work better :)

Thanks for chiming in!!! Will keep you all posted on my attempts...still soliciting for feedback

[nkanarik]

Here is one more for you VT prussic fans:
Rig your descender below the MT and lock it off(CRITR works great for this).
Attach the VT prussic above your ascenders.
transfer the back up tether and foot sling from the top ascender to the VT. Remove the top ascender.
Stand up on the VT prussic, make sure it is secure. Remove the MT.
CAREFULLY bump the top of the VT downwards- and slide down until your rappel device is fully weighted.
Unlock your device and continue rappelling sliding the VT along as a back-up.

This method is somewhat equivalent to mine...it's using another piece of gear (VT prussic vs. Tibloc2)...
Thanks though

[Kuya]

Love ascending with my MT! :) If you know you are going to have to transition to a rappel after ascending, it might be better to go up with a different setup. Use a VT Prussik rigged with a Valdotain Hitch. or use a Grigri.

[harness man]

The reason for rigging the rappel device (locked of) below the MT is to have redundancy when the MT is removed.
The BIG difference with the VT versus any other hitch or ascending device is that it is release-able WHILE you are hanging on it!
No need to unweight.

[harness man]

If you are ascending and the climb is not difficult (like free- hanging with a big pack on) then you can rig your CRITR below the ascenders,
stand up on the footloop(s) and balance against the rock,
remove the MT
push the CRITR up the rope snug and lock off.
Sit back on the CRITR, unweight and disconnect the top ascender/foot loop
Rappel
May have to shoot some video demo tomorrow...

[nkanarik]

I'd love to see that video :)...BTW...I'm hanging off of a large tree branch in my backyard (i.e. free hanging) using a single 8mm rope to simulate what I consider worst case scenario or something close to it (minus the height/fear factor )

[Kuya]

I'd love to see that video :)...BTW...I'm hanging off of a large tree branch in my backyard (i.e. free hanging) using a single 8mm rope to simulate what I consider worst case scenario or something close to it (minus the height/fear factor )

worst case scenario.... you lost everything but the rope you have to ascend... how do you get up that one?

[hank moon]

Are you saying I should connect my descender (ATS/CRITR) on that dangling rope, apply the MMO and remove the MT?

Yes to the first step, no to the step after that. There is no need for an MMO or any other gear. Fun puzzle, eh? Your initial post had me thinking that you might enjoy a good puzzle, since you did not reveal all of the steps in your process. It's more engaging and educational to discover stuff on one's own. At least it is for me. How about you?

I'd love to see that video :)...BTW...I'm hanging off of a large tree branch in my backyard (i.e. free hanging) using a single 8mm rope to simulate what I consider worst case scenario or something close to it (minus the height/fear factor )

Yes. So much technique can be practiced 1' off the ground in relative comfort and safety. Still, pay attention to the possibility of sudden inversion and head-smack-garden-gnome.

[nkanarik]

worst case scenario.... you lost everything but the rope you have to ascend... how do you get up that one?

Agree this is worst :)...my comment was WRT to the gear I have with me (i.e. very thin rope, free hanging).

In your case... (assuming I cannot use the help/gear of other team members)

• Using prussics, but what if I lost my prussics?
• Not ascend and wait for SAR / Other teams to pass canyon?
• locking off my rappel device, and start creating leg loops with the main rope (Yikes...painful)

Yes to the first thing, no to the latter. There is no need for an MMO or any other gear. Fun puzzle, eh? Your initial post had me thinking that you might enjoy a good puzzle, since you did not reveal all of the steps in your process. It's more engaging and educational to discover stuff on one's own. At least it is for me. How about you?

Yep!...Will try to solve this weekend

[hank moon]

worst case scenario.... you lost everything but the rope you have to ascend... how do you get up that one?

One read is that you still have your shorts, shirt and helmet, etc. but you've lost all vertical gear except the rope. No harness, carabiners, descender, etc. Do you have a knife in this scenario?

Kuya, would you clarify "lost everything" with specifics ?

[Kuya]

I was thinking that all you have is yourself, harness and the rope. All else was lost. Would it be possible to use just the rope to get up and down the cliff? Free hanging cliff. 30'+

[Kuya]

I think it is possible, but you would need a pretty long tail of rope to make it happen.

[harness man]

Whoaa...
should not be posting during work...
Hank is right- I am totally over thinking this
Just did a quick convert off a roof beam-
ascend rope
attach rappel device and lock off (below ascenders)
down jumar/ prussic until device is loaded
remove ascenders and rappel