various prussik applications

[WorkBad]

X3

If someone is standing at the bottom watching, why not hold the rope and pay attention? My wife saved someone in Behunin by proactively giving a firemans on the 7th rappel or so of the day. Everyone seemed comfortable, until that moment.

YES! I've still got the video footage somewhere around here.

[harness man]

Great thread!
When developing the CRITR, Desi and I experimented a lot with 'auto-blocks' (prussic type back-ups) and had very mixed results, especially rappellng
single line.
Just when you think you have the perfect diameter and finish of prussic cord and the perfect knot set-up, you get the whole thing wet and it does not work for s----!
We were very pleased, however, to learn the VT Prussic! (best one made by Bluewater)
The VT, when properly tied, holds well and is one of the few hitches fully releasable under load, so you can (should) use it above your device and it is very handy also for rigging in rescue situations.
That said, when first down, I just rig the CRITR with a CONSERVATIVE level of friction and firemans everyone to follow.
The only time first down I am tempted to use the VT is for big wall style rappels of unknown length (where is the anchor?)...

[darhawk]

The VT, when properly tied, holds well and is one of the few hitches fully releasable under load, so you can (should) use it above your device and it is very handy also for rigging in rescue situations..

I want to second the idea of a VT Prussik above the rappel device. It is a very useful tool in some circumstances, such as first one on rappel when facing a long or unknown rappel or when very tired. It is useful for the first one on rappel in any circumstance where an extra safety measure could be desired. The potential problems include rigging it so tight that it is somewhat difficult to move down the rope. This can be prevented with practice or, if in the field, by simply locking off the rappel device and re-rigging. Another potential problem is that if you do in fact begin to go too fast, it is human nature to grab onto the rope and you might hang onto the prussik knot rather than let go. Again, practice will help prevent this problem. Also, on a long rappel or when I'm tired, plan ahead to rest part-way down by releasing the prussik while also stopping myself on the rappel device. It's nice to lock off and dangle for a moment with the help of the prussik before finishing.

I of course agree that a top belay is also helpful in the conditions described, but I find the VT prussik a quick and easy solution. As always, with practice.

[Brian in SLC]

I want to second the idea of a VT Prussik above the rappel device.

How's that go? Those that don't know history...

http://storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevi...afetyPost.html

[harness man]

Yup!
Every form of 'auto block' including VT Prussic has it's downside.
But having had many issues with auto blocks below the device, I have come to prefer the VT above the device as Darhawk has.
But it ain't perfect.
And requires practice to be effective.
Agree with most of those posting here that the firemans is awesome when ever it can be provided.