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Thread: Climbing in Red Cliff Desert Reserve

  1. #1

    Climbing in Red Cliff Desert Reserve

    Last year a few of us had a great trip to the St George area, biking and climbing. Some of our plans were foiled when we tried to go climbing in the Black Rock area as it was apparently closed to encourage the turtles to mate. Turtles cannot mate with the sounds of rope sliding through 'biners in the vicinity. ??

    I am planning on a semi-repeat trip again this year and try as I might I just can't figure it out on their website when it is taboo or even if it is. It really doesn't seem to address rock climbing at all. ?? Last time there was a sign posted "don't come in here and rock climb" or something like that so I'm sure it is obvious to you locals but I am hoping to know the rules prior to driving 500+ miles.

    http://www.redcliffsdesertreserve.com/

    Perhaps one of you locals can give me some better info on the rules? What is the story on this?

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  3. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDuke View Post
    Last year a few of us had a great trip to the St George area, biking and climbing. Some of our plans were foiled when we tried to go climbing in the Black Rock area as it was apparently closed to encourage the turtles to mate. Turtles cannot mate with the sounds of rope sliding through 'biners in the vicinity. ??

    I am planning on a semi-repeat trip again this year and try as I might I just can't figure it out on their website when it is taboo or even if it is. It really doesn't seem to address rock climbing at all. ?? Last time there was a sign posted "don't come in here and rock climb" or something like that so I'm sure it is obvious to you locals but I am hoping to know the rules prior to driving 500+ miles.

    http://www.redcliffsdesertreserve.com/

    Perhaps one of you locals can give me some better info on the rules? What is the story on this?
    climbed in the Black Cliff area this past weekend. Routes re short but fun. Name:  11a.jpg
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  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Dustinh View Post
    climbed in the Black Cliff area this past weekend. Routes re short but fun.
    Well Dustin I am jealous and that does look like a nice little sport route which is just what I am after......but I can't really dig an answer out of your post. I take it the area was open last weekend....but is that in perpetuity now? No more closing? It was closed and you sniped it? Are you just keeping me in suspense?

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDuke View Post
    Last year a few of us had a great trip to the St George area, biking and climbing. Some of our plans were foiled when we tried to go climbing in the Black Rock area as it was apparently closed to encourage the turtles to mate. Turtles cannot mate with the sounds of rope sliding through 'biners in the vicinity. ??

    I am planning on a semi-repeat trip again this year and try as I might I just can't figure it out on their website when it is taboo or even if it is. It really doesn't seem to address rock climbing at all. ?? Last time there was a sign posted "don't come in here and rock climb" or something like that so I'm sure it is obvious to you locals but I am hoping to know the rules prior to driving 500+ miles.

    http://www.redcliffsdesertreserve.com/

    Perhaps one of you locals can give me some better info on the rules? What is the story on this?
    Not a biologist..........but, Black Rocks closes seasonally from March 15th thru June 30th each year for desert tortoise migration and mating. Options for quality Basalt climbing locally would be Crawdad Canyon (privately owned and pay per visit) and if you'd like to climb at Crawdad off season (from Labor Day until roughly the first of May) contact us at The Desert Rat 435-628-7277 and we'll fill you in how to gain access. The relatively new "Pine Valley Crag" has numerous quality sport and trad basalt routes, and if you are looking for quality Trad, The Underworld has some fine columnar basalt routes.

    PS: to save you calling us about Crawdad Canyon I'll fill you in here.

    Climbing off season at Crawdad Canyon requires membership with Southern Utah Climbers Coalition. Membership fee as follows: $30- For Individual, $45- For couple, $60- For Family, (annual fee). A member can come into The Desert Rat and sponsor climbers whom will be climbing with them on a given day. Climbing fee for a member is $2.50/day, while any non-members being sponsored by a member will pay $8/day. A key can be checked out for access into the canyon after all forms (membership form, individual liability waivers, and key check out form) have been completed. Camping is not allowed in the canyon during off season. Only climbers that have paid and filled out all the necessary paperwork may climb. Violators of the rules will be prosecuted for tresspass.

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDuke View Post
    Turtles cannot mate with the sounds of rope sliding through 'biners in the vicinity. ??

    I know, that's weird!! I can't mate without those sounds. Ropework is a form of foreplay for me...
    It's only "science" if it supports the narrative.

  7. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bo_Beck View Post

    Climbing off season at Crawdad Canyon requires membership with Southern Utah Climbers Coalition. Membership fee as follows: $30- For Individual, $45- For couple, $60- For Family, (annual fee). A member can come into The Desert Rat and sponsor climbers whom will be climbing with them on a given day. Climbing fee for a member is $2.50/day, while any non-members being sponsored by a member will pay $8/day. A key can be checked out for access into the canyon after all forms (membership form, individual liability waivers, and key check out form) have been completed. Camping is not allowed in the canyon during off season. Only climbers that have paid and filled out all the necessary paperwork may climb. Violators of the rules will be prosecuted for tresspass.
    Thanks Bo, that is the info I was looking for.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by rockgremlin View Post
    I know, that's weird!! I can't mate without those sounds. Ropework is a form of foreplay for me...
    I dare not venture into what the correct, Rockgremlin, mating call would be though I would suppose it involves high RPMs from a big block, Corvette 427 engine while Five Finger Death Punch plays in the background.

  9. #8
    Oh........... and at the end of the attached video you will notice that the male does not seem to worry about his vanquished rival watching.... and at no point was he bothered by the presence of rock climbers on cliffs in the background either. He seems pretty focused.

    Closed for tortoise mating.......sheesh!

    (warning, turtles getting it on in the video)


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