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Thread: Steve Allen's Canyoneering 2 - White Canyon Route

  1. #1

    Steve Allen's Canyoneering 2 - White Canyon Route

    In May 2013, my fried Brad and I traveled to Utah for our annual backpacking trip. After a lot of research and waffling on where we should invest our time, we decided on the Long Canyon & Gravel Canyon Loop in the White Canyon Wilderness of Southern Utah. This route was pioneered by Steve Allen, and is documented in Allen's book Canyoneering 2: Technical Loop Hikes in Southern Utah. We were drawn to this particular route due to it's remoteness, opportunity for solitude, technical challenge, and promise of sustained interest in the form of canyon narrows, swimming, scrambling, and technical canyoneering. The route surely did not disappoint.

    I must mention that this route was superbly researched and documented by Mr. Allen. The route is not obvious, and must have taken weeks in the wilderness to piece together. Allen guides you to various cracks and breaks into otherwise impenetrable walls that allows this route to "go". Mr Allen also documents well when you should stay high, and where you should stay low in the canyons in order to avoid cliff-outs that would require you retrace you steps. I can only imagine the number of hours Allen must have invested in documenting this spectacular route.

    As far as the actual route, as promised, it was continuously interesting. Hiking up Long Canyon we were presented with wonderful narrows, many cold swims (bring your wetsuit!), and numerous side canyons begging for exploration. Campsites in Long Canyon were simply spectacular, and we saw the Milky Way like never before. After Long Canyon, you make the long traverse between Long and Gravel Canyons. Walking on slick rock benches one gains a couple thousand feet, and is presented with wonderful views of the Henry Mountains and Jacob's Chair. Eventually, you make your way to the head of Gravel Canyon, and if you thought Long Canyon was fun, just wait! Gravel Canyon is a very large and complex canyon system, with many side canyons. In Gravel Canyon, the canyoneer is presented with innumerable boulder problems, astounding and sustained narrows, much swimming, and a technical canyoneering section that rivals the best on the Colorado Plateau. In addition, Gravel Canyon offers no less that 6 major side canyons, each with their own set of interesting narrows.

    I rate our trip in the White Canyon Wilderness above all previous desert trips that Brad and I have done, far surpassing our Choprock, Neon, Ringtail trip in Escalante from two years ago. The only bad thing about this trip is that I don't think it can be surpassed, it is truly the best on the Colorado Plateau.

    LINK TO ALL OF MY PICTURES


    Entrance to Long Canyon




    First Wet Narrows in Long Canyon



    One of Many Interesting Side Canyons in Long Canyon




    Another Side Canyon within Long Canyon




    View of My Partner in the Crux Narrows of Long Canyon




    Continuing Up-Canyon in Long Canyon



    Exiting Long Canyon



    Sunset from the Rim of Long Canyon




    View Enroute to Gravel Canyon



    Entrance to Gravel Canyon



    Heading Down Gravel Canyon



    More Descending of Gravel Canyon




    Gravel Canyon



    Gravel Canyon



    Ruins



    Interesting Tunnel



    Interesting Narrows in Gravel - Day 3



    Superslot



    Superslot



    Rappel in the Superslot



    Camp Life



    Pretty Flower



    Alcove



    Prettiest Narrows



    Prettiest Narrows



    Rappel



    Final Rappel in Gravel Canyon - The End


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  3. #2
    Nice!

    Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

  4. #3
    Awesome! Excellent trip report and congratulations to you and Brad for getting it done out there. I bought Canyoneering 2 a couple of years ago and have had my eye on this route since reading about it. Your pictures confirm what I suspected- I really need to do this hike.

    I'm curious about some of the logistics, details of how you two packed and planned for the trip and maybe some of the stats(miles, elevation, etc). How many days did it take, how much food did you have to pack, did you have any issues finding pumpable/filterable water? Would you discourage or recommend it be done solo?

    Thanks in advance and again, well done!

  5. #4
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    x3. Love the pics and a great write-up.
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  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Taylor View Post
    I'm curious about some of the logistics, details of how you two packed and planned for the trip and maybe some of the stats(miles, elevation, etc). How many days did it take, how much food did you have to pack, did you have any issues finding pumpable/filterable water? Would you discourage or recommend it be done solo?
    Hi Taylor,

    We packed for 6 days, although we ended up doing the trip in 5 days. I believe Allen recommends 6 days or more. We packed our full technical kits; rope, harness, escape tools, wetsuit, etc. We debated heavily over the inclusion of wetsuits, and thankfully decided to bring them. The route would not go in full water conditions without a wetsuit. I personally debated whether to carry a full waterproof pack or use drybags inside a normal backpack. I ended up going with a full waterproof backpack, which was probably overkill for a two person team....my partner managed fine with a normal backpack with essentials safely packed in dry bags. If I were going solo I would go with a fully waterproof backpack because the margin of error is smaller.

    The main route is approximately 30 miles, and no more than 3,000 of elevation gain, but these stats are practically meaningless in my opinion. Both canyons are littered with numerous obstacles and challenges; swims, difficult up-climbs, difficult descents, rope work, and bouldering. This is all without mentioning the incredible variety of side explorations, all of which my friend and I explored to one extent or another.

    Filterable water was not an issue at all when in Long and Gravel Canyons. However, the cross country route between the canyons is completely absent of water, and Allen recommends a 6-liter haul between canyons. I think we went with 5 liters and were glad to have every drop.

    The route can be done solo, although I hesitate to recommend a solo trip without understanding more about a person's capabilities. Personally, I would feel comfortable doing the route solo, although there would surely be a couple scary moments along the way. First, climbing up canyon in Long Canyon would be a challenge solo. My friend and I had a system where one of us would solo the climb, haul the packs, then the second person climbed. You would need to engineer a pack hauling system for a solo attempt. The up climbs were not particularly difficult, save the fact that the canyon was "full to the brim" when we were there. Beginning a climb from a swimming start can be a challenge, hence the absolute need for a wetsuit since you could be flailing a while in ice cold water. Secondly, there is a Class 5, 20-ish foot move on the cross country day, and you would need to be comfortable and have a head for heights to safely execute the move. But even if you are climbing with a partner the first climber has to solo it anyway.

    If you have anymore questions, let me know!

  7. #6
    Awesome TR/Pics.

  8. #7
    Excellent choice of adventure, quite different than the standard fare. Great TR!

    I'm sure you considered before setting out: you could do Gravel one day and Long another day, and just set up camp anywhere, more or less. What made you decide to to the big loop vs. splitting it into two canyon adventures? Your choice seems like the more strenuous of the two options, considering the weight of wetsuits, rope and camping supplies.

    My question is not snarky, just curious.
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  9. #8

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Slot Machine View Post
    I'm sure you considered before setting out: you could do Gravel one day and Long another day, and just set up camp anywhere, more or less. What made you decide to to the big loop vs. splitting it into two canyon adventures? Your choice seems like the more strenuous of the two options, considering the weight of wetsuits, rope and camping supplies.
    Yes, I recognized by consulting Kelsey's books that both canyons could be done in a lightening descent in one day. My friend and I have always enjoyed the wilderness experience of backpacking style trips. We enjoy camp time in the wilderness, star gazing, sipping bourbon, etc. Another factor is that we could not have experienced all of the side canyons in a one day descent. Backpacking is the more efficient option if one desires to sample the side canyons, such as Cowboy (but I recognize all the sides could also be done in a day each, but then the days start really adding up). In the end it comes down to the fact that we enjoy backpacking and camping in remote locations. BTW, we didn't see a single person after the mouth of Long Canyon, 5 days no people.

    Also, I used your Super Amazing Canyoneering Map to plan our trip. We also did Black Hole, Fry, and Leprechaun, and found these canyons by looking at close-by options to White Canyon, thanks!

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Hawkins View Post
    Yes, I recognized by consulting Kelsey's books that both canyons could be done in a lightening descent in one day. My friend and I have always enjoyed the wilderness experience of backpacking style trips. We enjoy camp time in the wilderness, star gazing, sipping bourbon, etc. Another factor is that we could not have experienced all of the side canyons in a one day descent. Backpacking is the more efficient option if one desires to sample the side canyons, such as Cowboy (but I recognize all the sides could also be done in a day each, but then the days start really adding up). In the end it comes down to the fact that we enjoy backpacking and camping in remote locations. BTW, we didn't see a single person after the mouth of Long Canyon, 5 days no people.

    Also, I used your Super Amazing Canyoneering Map to plan our trip. We also did Black Hole, Fry, and Leprechaun, and found these canyons by looking at close-by options to White Canyon, thanks!
    Very cool. Your mindset combined with your choice of route sound like a perfect combo; inspiring me to slow down a little. Thanks.

    I'm stoked that you find The Map useful. Sounds like an awesome trip.
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  12. #11
    It did not appear that you used wet suits until you got into Gravel?? Was that the case or am I missing something. I plan to go mid April and my partner does not have a wet suit. Can the wet narrows be by passed if necessary? We are hoping just to get up to the exit in Long and then return. can you give an idea where you camped the first night in....somewhere between first narrows and the crux narrows? Nice report.

  13. #12
    I plan to go mid April and my partner does not have a wet suit.
    I have a high tolerance to cold, but I'd still bring a wetsuit in April for Gravel. For Gravel in normal conditions (and depending on weather forecast), those who have a high tolerance for cold could get by with a 3/2 in April, but a 4/3 would be better for most.

    For Long Canyon, a wetsuit may or may not be necessary, depending on conditions. I have been in there when it was mostly dry and another time when there was lots of water. If you are just coming in from the bottom, you can just turn back when you need to. If you want to get as far as possible and aren't sure about conditions, I'd bring the same wetsuits recommended above. More than likely, there will be water.
    Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.

  14. #13
    Thanks much for the feed back. I had initially planned to do as you suggested and have the turn around option in place. However, after looking at your photos again I said what the heck, life is too short so lets give ourselves the best chance of at least getting up to where the exit route begins. We will have other uses for the wet suit investment.

  15. #14
    Thanks Scott P for this great trip report . I am the other person that will be joining Cheops on the mid April trip . In addition to the camping site info requested by him , would you mind giving a little more information or comment about hiking through the Crux narrows . I will have a wet suit too . Am curious if steming is required to defeat obstacles and what length rope we should carry if we are only going as far as the exit from Long Canyon . I really enjoyed your terrific pictures . Best wishes !

  16. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Snailman69 View Post
    Thanks Scott P for this great trip report . I am the other person that will be joining Cheops on the mid April trip . In addition to the camping site info requested by him , would you mind giving a little more information or comment about hiking through the Crux narrows . I will have a wet suit too . Am curious if steming is required to defeat obstacles and what length rope we should carry if we are only going as far as the exit from Long Canyon . I really enjoyed your terrific pictures . Best wishes !
    Hi Snailman,

    This is Steve Hawkins, the author of the trip report. There are two systems of narrows in Long Canyon you will have to defeat. The second one, known as the crux, is only slightly harder than the first. To answer your question, I recommend taking 30 feet of webbing or rope to use to raise packs or set up a hand line for less experienced members of your party. My partner and I used wetsuits in both narrow sections of Long Canyon. Foolishly, we tried the first set without wetsuits only to get hypothermic and have to retreat to warm back up. I should say that we did our trip 2 days after a very significant rainfall, and the canyons were filled to the brim. Your conditions may be entirely different when you go. Where we had chest deep water in the first narrows, you may only have knee deep. I would say take a wetsuit just to be safe. Don't try to exit the narrows with your pack on, it will be obvious, but have the strongest member of your party exit first, then he/she can raise everyone's packs such that your team can climb the exit without packs.

    Please save time for side trips, they are simply wonderful.

    We camped our first night shortly after the first set of narrows a a sharp, right turning curve in the canyon. The is a bench easily accessible about 20 feet above the canyon floor, and water is available in the narrows or in the side canyon directly across from the campsite I mention.

    Please do top off your water prior to exiting Long Canyon, that will be your last water source until you get back to your car.

    Enjoy! And if you have additional questions fire away.

  17. #16
    Very helpful Steve . Sorry for my confusion but I must have assumed Scott P was your partner on the trip because of the way he answered and seemed to have recent knowledge of the canyon . You have certainly helped with my preperation for this hike , as I am still a bit of an amateur . I am sure we will be checking out the side canyons , looks to have some beautiful narrows in them . Once again , we appreciate you taking your time to post this great trip report and include wonderful photos .

  18. #17

    Nice Post Steve

    I have done this loop trip 3 times, once solo, probably because it is one of the best if not the best backpacking trip on the Colorado Plateau. My 3 trips were in April, May and September. It does take 5 to 6 days. You will get wet in Long Canyon but I have never had to wear a wet suit. Steve Allen fails to mention that the 2nd crux narrows can be bypassed on the west side (left LUC). You can then drop your pack and enjoy the crux narrows by going down canyon (much easier) and return via the bypass. The journey from Long to Gravel Canyon takes a full day and there will be no water available. Once you're in Gravel there will be a lot of scrambling but nothing really too difficult. The narrows of Gravel Canyon can also be bypassed (see Steve Allens book) and there is excellent camping in a side canyon if going this way. However, the narrows are very nice and only require one short mandatory rappel at the entrance. There can be a 2nd optional rappel into a narrow water filled slot or it can be downclimbed. If you choose the narrows, be sure to locate the way to bench on the right LDC abd walk back upcanyon to visit some fantastic Anasazi ruins. The rest of the way down Gravel will have 2 rappels, both shown in Steve's photos. A 100' rope and pull cord is all you need to do this trip.

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  20. #18
    Thanks so much; all of this is very helpful. I had seen some photos of trips in Long that led me to believe there may be a bypass option in the crux narrows. Appreciate your confirmation. We plan just to do an exploration of Long and spend two nights in there with base camp between first narrows and crux narrows. On our second day sounds like we can bypass crux narrows on our exploration up canyon and get into the crux narrows on the way back down. The information everyone has provided has been most helpful though we realize that conditions are always in flux.

  21. #19
    Just a follow-up to the above thread. We attempted to backpack up Long but got turned around at a pour off in the first set of narrows. We first encountered ankle deep mud then progressed into essentially waist deep water (cold). We did not spend a lot of time studying the pour off obstacle maybe because we were getting cold but it looked like it might be beyond our skill level. The smooth pour off '"spout" turned up and to the left. The lip was only slightly above water level between waist and chest level. Maybe someone could have been boosted up into the pour off and gotten a better look at just what we were facing but I think the discomfort factor was getting to us. We basically made the decision to just head back to our cars at Gravel Crossing since we had 5 or 6 hours of remaining daylight. Do you think this first set of narrows can be bypassed also? What we saw of Long we enjoyed. I plan to go back again and re-evaluate. Sometimes it takes more than one attempt to accomplish your goals. Does the pour off I described sound familiar?

  22. #20
    Looked at this trip report when it was posted. Just reread it. What a great excursion. Great trip report.

    Ken

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