Had to use the contingency anchor to lower

[ratagonia]

I can only think of setting up a top rope climbing setup. Pretty much the persons on the bottom lower the person at the the top like they would a climber that just finished a sport route.

Ding ding! Give that man a Deep Creek Chocolate Cherry Scone!

This would be a 'ground anchor with contingency'. Got to be careful where you place the knot (assuming it is a 'long' rappel'*).

The other 'way' would be to set up a guided rappel, which serves much the same purpose as a contingency anchor.

Tom


* a 'long rappel' is one longer than half the length of the rope. a 'short rappel' is one shorter than half the length of the rope.

[hank moon]

Ding ding! Give that man a Deep Creek Chocolate Cherry Scone!

This would be a 'ground anchor with contingency'. Got to be careful where you place the knot (assuming it is a 'long' rappel'*).

The other 'way' would be to set up a guided rappel, which serves much the same purpose as a contingency anchor.

Tom


* a 'long rappel' is one longer than half the length of the rope. a 'short rappel' is one shorter than half the length of the rope.

Isn't there something still missing from this solution? The scenario: 230' rap using 2 x 250' ropes (the original problem involved a 250' rap and then Tom shaved up to 20' off of that for the LPD contingency bonus prob).

So, last rapper gets stuck on rope at -100' and needs to be lowered. It can't be done with a normal slingshot setup, nor with a guided rappel, unless...? What am I missing?

[ratagonia]

Isn't there something still missing from this solution? The scenario: 230' rap using 2 x 250' ropes (the original problem involved a 250' rap and then Tom shaved up to 20' off of that for the LPD contingency bonus prob).

So, last rapper gets stuck on rope at -100' and needs to be lowered. It can't be done with a normal slingshot setup, nor with a guided rappel, unless...? What am I missing?

Correct, to get full contingency (recommended!) the ropes need to be tied together in a loop, with the rappeller just below the top knot, and the contingency on the downstream side of the loop-making knot.

Some awkwardness might be involved. Hard to do if the length of the ropes is tight.

The point of the guided rappel is to rappel other than into the obstacle. It also takes a bit more rope than just rappelling it. And, of course, the guided rappel cannot be contingencied - but it is another powerful solution to the problem of rappelling into belligerent places.

Tom

[moab mark]

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Would not of thought of that. Thanks

[Summit2Sea]

Hmm, nice... Have to use that one when the person that should be going last needs to be on the deck for some reason, leaving someone not as experienced and/or comfortable at the top to go last. Bottom belay with contingency to lower... cool!!

Just need to make sure the anchor is solid due to the 2:1 disadvantage. :0)