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09-15-2013, 06:50 PM #1
Had to use the contingency anchor to lower
I was out in a party of 3 yesterday doing the 7 Cataracts off Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, AZ. Crew of 2 experienced males, with 1 female new to wet canyons.
On the 90' 3rd rappel, which is in and under a waterfall its entire length, the noob got caught up and panicked. Water flow at that point down the face was a good spray rather than a flow, but enough nonetheless to cause fear for the uninitiated. Pic attached of me on the rappel. I had rigged a releasable anchor using a figure 8. I quickly lowered her the last 40' or so. Operation was smooth and uneventful, save for the actual reality that a panicked noob was under water and shrieking for a few minutes. First time ever for a lower in years of this sport.
It was great to quickly remedy what could have been a nasty situation sans the releasable. Several reflections on the situation.
1. I always rig a releasable 8, I don't care what. Rock knocking someone out, a slip and head whack, or what happened in this case. Good confirmation of.
2. I had rigged the 8 in the "easier to release" mode (no twist on the bight that goes back through the 8). I need to review that practice. Although easier to release, it logically has to compromise holding friction. I am always LAMAR, so tie a backup on the 8 in case it slips. Yet it has never slipped in years of use.
3. I carry plenty of gear to make a raise possible, but admittedly don't practice that as much. Reminder to be prepared for something, anything to go wrong.
4. No matter the "experience" a noob has in the dry, nothing adequately prepares for water on the face and the need to remain calm.
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Post Thanks / Like - 6 Likes
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09-15-2013 06:50 PM # ADS
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09-16-2013, 08:19 AM #2
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09-16-2013, 08:44 AM #3
If you use a big enough figure eight belay device, the knot can get through just fine. But is the pull cord strong enough to handle the weight of lowering a person???
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09-16-2013, 09:49 AM #4
I must admit that I almost never rig releasable, but then I don't take very many noobs out either. I know how to convert to a lowering system if something does go wrong though. Also the few times I've been with noobs I did rig releasable. Never had to lower someone though outside of practice.
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09-16-2013, 05:57 PM #5
Allow me to butt in...
Neither.
Run your retrieval rope through the contingency anchor, then tie it to the rappel rope. Rappeller set up just below the knot - the knot is below the lowering system. If needed, the entire length of the retrieval rope can be used to lower.
Tom
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09-16-2013, 05:58 PM #6
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09-16-2013, 06:29 PM #7
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09-17-2013, 07:19 AM #8
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09-17-2013, 08:33 AM #9
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09-18-2013, 11:50 AM #10
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likesratagonia liked this post
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09-18-2013, 03:08 PM #11
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09-18-2013, 03:39 PM #12
Great question Tom! Just for clarification, do you have additional rope available, or just the rope involved with the rappel?
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09-18-2013, 03:42 PM #13
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09-18-2013, 06:36 PM #14
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09-18-2013, 06:43 PM #15
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09-18-2013, 07:03 PM #16
q: was your preflight briefing adequate for the noob - explaining that its WET and that there is a backup plan so don't panic as panicking never helps etc etc
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09-18-2013, 11:05 PM #17
It was. To my mind. I'm not sure a noob truly understands it all. "If you get stuck, I'll be able to lower you down." "How is that possible? Will you come down to help me?" "No, I'll release the anchor on this figure 8 here, and blah blah blah blah blah..." Probably got lost in the excitement of everything. But now she understands fully.
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09-19-2013, 07:50 AM #18
As usual, probably reading a little too much into the exact wording of the post...
The pre-waterfall pep talk - I like to talk about the disorientation of having all those water drops hitting the helmet. Just stay calm, keep going down at a steady rate. You won't drown, your helmet creates a nice air space, etc.
Tom
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09-20-2013, 07:43 AM #19
Roobosour
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09-20-2013, 09:42 AM #20CanyoneeringUtah.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel
"As you journey through life, choose your destination well, but do not hurry there. You will arrive soon enough. Wander the back roads and forgotten path[s] ... Such things are riches for the soul. And if upon arrival, you find that your destination is not exactly as you had dreamed, ... know that the true worth of your travels lies not in where you come to be at journey
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