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09-08-2013, 09:11 AM #1
Free used rope in Rock of Ages-Moab
Had to cut my rope in Rock of Ages final 100' rap. This was a bummer because my 220' of 9.2 canyon DS had served me well for a few years.
The big rap at the end is actually a very easy rope pull with virtually no chance of getting it stuck, but something weird happened in the last 5 inches when it was just getting ready to fall. What I think happened is the end flicked up in the air and somehow doubled over to create a knot against the rapide. Although you can't see it from the ground, it kind of looks like a knot with a short piece sticking out parallel to the ground. I had never removed those plastic things at the rope end and think that may have contributed to this strange knot.
After trying gently flicking, swirling, pulling from different angles, and eventually pulling with all my strength, it was decided it was a loss. Of course, I climbed up as far up on the wall to save every last foot- but it was cut.
Maybe 60 feet left hanging. Yours to have for a short canyon rope, but I want to see a picture at the anchor of how it got spontaneously knotted!
Lessons learned: 1) Cut those plastic end things off the rope and make it as smooth as possible. 2) Always have a good knife with you to salvage as much of a stuck rope as possible. 3) Expect the unexpected.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likesratagonia liked this post
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09-08-2013 09:11 AM # ADS
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09-09-2013, 01:36 AM #2
I always cut those stupid things off. The bigger Bluewater ropes are the worst. If the ropes are technora sheathed, I finish the ends with seam grip and a short (thin) piece of heat shrink.
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09-09-2013, 11:15 AM #3
I don't have anything to add and I'm sorry about your rope, but I just had to say that I found the ad at the top of the thread to be humorous.
Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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Post Thanks / Like - 3 Likes
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09-10-2013, 02:53 AM #4
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 LikesMountaineer liked this post
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09-10-2013, 04:57 AM #5
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09-10-2013, 09:57 AM #6
I played it, and believe you me, it wasn't free.
Also, now that I'm getting medieval on these plastic rope ends, whats a quick and easy way to polish up these rope ends? I searched this forum and found some good info, but many of the suggested processes involve buying obscure glues and heat shrinks. Anybody have a more "home style" method for a technor/dynema rope like the Canyon DS?
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09-10-2013, 10:01 AM #7
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09-10-2013, 02:50 PM #8
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09-10-2013, 04:45 PM #9
OCD method
1- wrap 1" of rope tightly with masking tape (less than 2 layers of tape)
2- cut through tape and rope with new razor blade, leaving 1/4" of tape on end to be finished
3- pull out ~1" of core and cut it w/razor blade
4- milk sheath back over core; there should now be about 1" of core-less sheath at the end of the rope
5- carefully remove tape to minimize sheath unraveling
6- wearing exam gloves, coat the last 1" (end) of rope with aqua-seal or seam grip, working it into the sheath with your (gloved) fingers.
7- Pinch and shape the gooped sheath with fingers, perhaps using a thin layer of tape or plastic wrap (or exam glove) to help taper the end. let dry and cut 1/2" off the end with razor blade.
The OCD goal is to have a sealed, tapered, closed end, minimizing the length and diameter of the hard (gooped) area.
Simpler method: take OCD method to step 4, wrap another piece of tape around the rope, 1/2" from the 1/4" of tape at the end. Goop the gap between the two taped areas, using exam glove to work goop into sheath. Let dry, cut off the 1/4" of tape at the end. Goal is to have sealed sheath, but flexible/floppy, open end
note: so easy to taper the ends of a rope w/meltable sheath! soften rope end over open flame (candle works well), taper softened rope end wearing leather or other thick, heat-protective glove.
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09-10-2013, 08:11 PM #10
The canyon DS doesn't have any dyneema. The canyon Pro Ds has the deyneema core. The regular DS has a nylon core and a 50/50 polyester technora sheath.
The method above using the seam grip and retracted core is the best way. I posted it above but forgot to mention retracting the core. There is no way to melt or heat fuse technora. Melting the polyester will kinda work but not really.
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09-12-2013, 07:37 AM #11
I've:
a) put 1-2 layers of tight gorilla tape on the end
b) cut through the tape with a sharp knife or razor blade, then
c) dipped the end (~1/2") in PVC cement. Let dry 24 hrs, dip again.
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09-12-2013, 08:46 AM #12
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09-12-2013, 09:53 AM #13
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09-12-2013, 07:01 PM #14
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09-12-2013, 07:43 PM #15
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09-13-2013, 06:15 AM #16
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