Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: How to Ascend a 500 Foot Rope

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Slot Machine View Post
    What are your thoughts on using an 8mm Double Sheath Canyon Pro rope for the task?

    I'd test the compatibility of your ascenders on a shorter piece of 8mm before springing for the full 5-hundy. While making our way out of Boomerang Cave on a 9mm Canyon Pro, we had a set of ascenders rated for 8mm that kept slipping and ripping the sheath to shreds. Talk about the shivers!

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many
     

  3. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Exergy View Post
    I'd test the compatibility of your ascenders on a shorter piece of 8mm before springing for the full 5-hundy. While making our way out of Boomerang Cave on a 9mm Canyon Pro, we had a set of ascenders rated for 8mm that kept slipping and ripping the sheath to shreds. Talk about the shivers!
    Sounds like a good idea.

    What brand of ascenders did the shredding? Do you think that other brands would do the same thing?
    THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
    TRIP REPORTS: TIGER | BOBCAT | OCELOT | LYNX | SABERTOOTH | CHEETAH | PORCUPINE | LEOPARD

    DON'T BE A STRANGER, LEAVE A COMMENT AND/OR SUBSCRIBE.
    WWW.AMAZINGSLOTS.BLOGSPOT.COM



  4. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by burnsdye View Post
    Another thing to consider is statistics. The longer the rope, the weaker it is, always, even on brand new ropes. That is because there is a higher probability of there being a "weak link" in a long rope than a short rope. It's usually a non-issue, but keep that in the back of your mind if you every try to push the limits of your rope.
    This is not true of rated strength, though perhaps it is theoretically true of actual strength (which should always be greater than rated with a U.S. rope manufacturer). I suppose the "weak link" you refer to is a splice, either in the sheath or in the core. PMI (for example) can make a rope of up to around 700' without sheath or core splices. After that, core splices come into play, but they are configured to have no effect on rope strength. Not sure when sheath splices come into play, but they also will have no effect on strength. Not a concern.

    A simple jugging system (called the 'Yosemite System' - what Byron and others have mentioned) can be made that is intuitive and works very well on slabby to near-vertical walls (but is beastly in free air). Most of the ascent out of Chute Canyon is steep-slabby, with a few free air sections to struggle through. It will pay to play and practice with an expert jugger to help fine tune your system. As always, practice in a safe environment (extensively) before heading out into "real" terrain.

  5. Likes Slot Machine, Brian in SLC liked this post
  6. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Slot Machine View Post
    Sounds like a good idea.

    What brand of ascenders did the shredding? Do you think that other brands would do the same thing?
    The guy bought them just for this trip and I forget what brand they were. After a few ~2' slip/shreds and some double-checking the obvious decision was to not chance it so we just shared a compatible set.

  7. Likes Slot Machine liked this post
  8. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Exergy View Post
    The guy bought them just for this trip and I forget what brand they were. After a few ~2' slip/shreds and some double-checking the obvious decision was to not chance it so we just shared a compatible set.
    Bet they were BD NForce - slippage is a well-known problem with that model (Google it). To be avoided.

    http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bd-...55#a_106598663

  9. #26
    Content Provider Emeritus ratagonia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Quiet and charming: Mount Carmel
    Posts
    7,158
    Quote Originally Posted by Exergy View Post
    While making our way out of Boomerang Cave on a 9mm Canyon Pro, ...
    If it was "Canyon Pro", then it was 8mm. If it was 9mm, it was probably the BW "Canyon" rope.

    As 8mm ropes go, the Canyon Pro tends to be rather small.

    Tom

  10. #27
    OK Sir; You travel down Kolob technical and then down the alley then turn the corner, then march further and then march up the MIA exit and road; this with wet ropes, wet wet suits and other gear. Do the trip 4-5 times, then do Boundary 4-5 times (sneak in a few Oak Creek Trips) and walla, the "other options" mindset grabs hold. FYI there is an "up" route after descending Kolob that is about 2x180 (feet and knees against the wall); One has to ascend a short route to get to this spot. Whatever, I'll not describe further. Know and realize that "planned ascending" more than 30-40 ft. requires a) proper fitness b) proper gear c) proper technique and once on rope, very efficient travel. Relatively "easy" going up (without gear), but the game changes when you are packing wet wet suits and some ropes. Caving, climbing, canyoneering. Caving requires ascending, climbing often does, and canyoneering - well, most don't do it. Planned ascending depending on how often one does it, the level of "ascent" and the weight one is packing, all factor in on the dimension of what to use and how to use it. Active climbers will use their climbing gear, and cavers, their gear...and then what to use after descending a canyon? I'd NOT buy any gear right away (you may end up with something you don't use or that is not efficient. ) Myself I have gear for emergency ascent, for casual ascent and then a whole other set of gear for planned ascents that often go 300, 350, 400 or more (in segments). People like to talk about "their gear" and how it's so effective and just right". Careful Bob, the siren sound may lead you in a direction (spending money) that is not efficient - in canyons. If you like, I'd be happy to lend any gear and show you techniques, and then YOU can decide what works best for you, in whatever circumstance. And then after that, you can walk down the gear alley and stock up on this or that site, or I could just let you borrow a full ascending set so you could practice. Interesting, Kolob, MIA...I did MIA a number of times, then "that old lady" was off the radar the rest of my canyoneering career....why? when I could simply ascend the canyon (or a side route); and start later in the day and get back to camp earlier in the day; and not have to cuss about the sweet MIA. (and is it easier - best - to go up a wall, or up a free hang, and does it matter? If you use the right technique and have the right gear, it mostly doesn't matter. Getting up, over and around chock stones, or other impediments. That's when gear, technique come into play and things matter. (Ooops, let the "pros" guide you on this - I guess, they have all the answers, I guess)

  11. Likes Slot Machine liked this post
  12. #28
    OH? Forgot, the rope you use for ascending? Most efficient to use the rope you are descending - or one similar to it. We often use rope protectors on edges and most often use 8.5 and 9mm ropes, to go down and back up. At some point all ropes have to be pulled back up and packed back to a vehicle. Other than a stunt rap on a wall close to a vehicle, I'd not bother with anything larger than 9mm, AND when ascending the sheath/hand of the rope can make a difference. Some ropes are great for going down, but not so hot for going up. I've got my favorites (for going up) but I'll not spill that on this site, may offend some. Sterling, Blue Water, Imlay, PMI....there are some ropes in that mix that I would and wouldn't use. Tom's 8.5 or whatever Canyon Fire, fine/nice for going down and sturdy and OK for going up too - and the price is good also. And I've ascended on plenty of 8mm ropes too - but only if the line is NOT rubbing on an overhang, a wall or chockstone. When ascending, the rope, saws back and forth and if the sheath is buried against an edge (say your prayers, if you have not protected that line.)

  13. Likes Slot Machine liked this post
  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by reflection View Post
    Careful Bob, the siren sound may lead you in a direction (spending money) that is not efficient - in canyons. If you like, I'd be happy to lend any gear and show you techniques, and then YOU can decide what works best for you, in whatever circumstance.
    Steve, what a generous offer! Thank you, we would love to learn from you! Tony and I have spent much time discussing your enthusiasm for ascending; wondering how you do it. I'll figure out a day that we can get together and send a PM very soon.

    Also, thanks for the info in the posts above. Luckily, I haven't cracked the wallet open yet...
    THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
    TRIP REPORTS: TIGER | BOBCAT | OCELOT | LYNX | SABERTOOTH | CHEETAH | PORCUPINE | LEOPARD

    DON'T BE A STRANGER, LEAVE A COMMENT AND/OR SUBSCRIBE.
    WWW.AMAZINGSLOTS.BLOGSPOT.COM



Similar Threads

  1. 99 Foot Rope Swing Quadruple Backflips
    By accadacca in forum Canyoneering
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-25-2013, 07:15 AM
  2. DIY - Rappel/Ascend Station?
    By jman in forum Canyoneering
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-25-2012, 01:31 AM
  3. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-15-2011, 10:46 AM
  4. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-12-2011, 05:33 AM
  5. [For Sale] Rope + Bag for Sale! New 300-foot Imlay Fire Rope 8.3mm + Rope Bag
    By canyonnut in forum Canyoneering
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-04-2010, 07:26 PM

Visitors found this page by searching for:

rope walking system

500 ft climbing rope

ropewalker canyoneering

how fast can a person ascend a rope with a rope walker system

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •