Belay devices

[TXtrailhunter]

We currently use and enjoy the ATC-XP belay device. Considering purchasing a GRIGRI2. What do y'all use or feedback on using a GRIGRI opposed to ATC device?

[Iceaxe]

BD ATC-XP for me and mine.

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[xxnitsuaxx]

Depends. Sport cragging? Grigri all the way. Way more enjoyable. Little person belaying a big person? Grigri. Safer. Multipitch? ATC guide? (But I've used a Grigri2 several times on multipitches and have no complaints.)

No offense to Shane, but antipathy to Grigris is mostly a generational thing. Ask 100 people under 30 and 99 of them will love the Grigri.

[Slipknot]

Just like most devices, each has their place. I prefer use my BD ATC Guide for climbing because I am so comfortable with it and used it for many years. Per Petzl, the Grigri is not recommended for belaying a trad lead. However, I carry my Grigri trad climbing and use it on direct belay. It is really smooth with less drag and much easier to let out rope or lower a climber than using the ATC guide. I started to use it with sport climbing more often I am really starting to like it. It only took me 15 years to come around. My only complaint is that I see that people who learn to belay with it tend to be sloppy because they are relying on the device to catch the climber rather than their technique. It is a great device and definitely has its place.

[Brian in SLC]

My bet is more people have been dropped with a Gri Gri than all other belay devices on the market. Very few people belay properly with them. I hear rumor a local gym has folks hit the floor monthly belayed (or not...) with the Gri Gri.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fri...0-ft/108267011

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/acc...32#a_108107752

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/red...t/106890386__1

That said, I have a Gri Gri and a Gri Gri 2. They work great, especially for rappelling single strand and stopping mid pitch.

My main belay device is a Petzl Reverso 3. I'd use the 4 in a heartbeat. Smooth.

Have used BD ATC, ATC-XP and ATC Guide a bunch. Also nice.

[TXtrailhunter]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'm sticking with my BD ATC-XP.

[qedcook]

The Grigri is not recommended for belaying a trad lead.

This is because a grigri won't give slack after the initial fall. On a bad trad whipper fall, the perfect belayer will catch and give a touch (without losing control) so it's not such a jolted stop. It's a fine art.

[Brian in SLC]

This is because a grigri won't give slack after the initial fall. On a bad trad whipper fall, the perfect belayer will catch and give a touch (without losing control) so it's not such a jolted stop. It's a fine art.

Hmmm. Folks soft catch with Grigris all the time. It takes practise and a fine eye on your partner to know when to do that, trad or sport.

You give a soft catch on an ATC on a trad route when your partner is above a ledge or near the ground? That'd be bad. Way off the deck? Slipping the rope doesn't help at all, and, just puts more unnecessary rope in the system.

See Daila give a super soft catch at around 7:36:



Great instructional video on how to properly use a Grigri. Just too bad I've never seen anyone actually belay someone that way...!

Speakin' of soft catches, or lack of, I saw a gal take a fall just above a roof and her partner sat down hard. She slammed into the edge of the roof...and, was more than a bit pissed at her belayer.

Being able to move around a bit, pay attention and anticipate a lead climber, IMHO, is way more important than any belay device...

[Brian in SLC]

Per Petzl, the Grigri is not recommended for belaying a trad lead.

Not sure that's true. Source?

My bet is more Grigri's are used to belay on big walls than any other belay device.

[Slipknot]

Not sure that's true. Source?

My bet is more Grigri's are used to belay on big walls than any other belay device.

Your bet could definitely be right. This has been a big debate for some time. Although, just because the masses use a piece of gear for all of their belays, that doesn't mean that the Grigri is the best product for the job in all applications. I will go back and see if I can find the manual where the disclaimer is. A friend of mine who went to work for Petzl in '98 is the one who told me about it. Beal did some tests a while back on the forces exerted on an anchor when belaying with both devices. You can see from the link below how the Grigri exerts more force on an anchor than a standard Tube-style belay device. Falling on active or passive gear is much different than falling on a bolted anchor. The argument made to me was that if you place bomber gear, it isn't a problem. Gear placement is only one part of the equation though. Sometimes rock quality isn't the greatest and that is out of your control. An increase of dynamic loading on a cam could compromise the rock. I did a lot of research before my purchase and choose not to trad belay with the Grigri as a result. I'm a nerdy mechanical engineer so I love diving into the numbers.

To be clear, I am not telling anyone that they should not use it for trad climbing as many people have used it for their climbing career and never have a problem. We all make calculated risks on any given climbing day. I have used the ATC Guide for years and love to use it, so I have no problem grabbing that piece of gear to belay with.

http://www.bealplanet.com/portail-20..._chute&lang=us