Belaying Young Kids As They Rappel

[ratagonia]

That set up looks "ok"...but, I'm with Tom in that the rope should be tied into the proper place on the harness, and, not the belay loop. I'd also rig the munter hitch side with a sling shot belay instead since you have to actively feed the rope anyhow. Much less twisting, and, easier for the belay to control rather than on the anchor with a munter.

Check! Sling shot belay would be much better, easier, smoother.

If lowering, I'd go sling shot on a kid (<100 lbs) but still go with the munter on an adult (>100 lbs).

Tom

[Sandstone Addiction]

Sling shot belay would be much better, easier, smoother.

Would you please explain this sling shot belay as I have kids in that range?

Also, you and Brian only mention using a Munter...any rappel devise would work for top belay, correct?

[Brian in SLC]

Would you please explain this sling shot belay as I have kids in that range?
Also, you and Brian only mention using a Munter...any rappel devise would work for top belay, correct?

Well...a sling shot belay is where you belay from your harness, the rope goes up to the anchor, and, sling shots back down to your partner. Basically just a redirect through a biner at the anchor. That way, the force pulls you towards the anchor. If you belay off the anchor, and, you're below it, can be a bit harder to manage. You gain a bit of friction off the biner at the anchor too.

I'd use nearly any belay device instead of a munter hitch. No need to twist the rope. Personally use the BD ATC or the Petzl Reverso 3.

If I knew the person on belay was fairly heavy and I might have to lower them, then, I'd probably add a carabiner to the belay device for a bit more friction. I'd kinda judge that based on how I'd rappel the rope single. Fat rope? I'd wouldn't add friction if the person weighed as much or less than me. Skinny rope? If I felt like I'd need additional friction to rappel, then, I'd add some to the system if the person was any where near my weight.

Also, I find it a bunch easier to escape a belay with a sling shot type system. Easy to lock off my partner then rig whatever I'd need. Might also facilitate a pick off quickly from that situation too...rather than having to tie off a munter at the anchor then rap whatever.

As a climber, I sling shot belay on multi pitch routes off the anchor, or, just straight off my harness if I think the anchor might be dubious... Easy to swap leads quickly, as, my partner is on belay and clipped into the first piece off the belay if I managed to rig it that way.

[ratagonia]

Also, you and Brian only mention using a Munter...any rappel devise would work for top belay, correct?

If belaying directly off the anchor, then a Munter works pretty well.

If sling-shotting, then you will want a belay device.

Now, many people probably think that a rappel device and a belay device are the same thing. They are not. The Pirana in particular is an especially poor belay device. It is slow and awkward to run the rope through, so if someone is rappelling, it could be hard to keep up, if they are moving at any speed other than 'glacial'.

Tom