The Squeeze

[Slot Machine]

It is always a pleasure to read your TRs, this one is no exception. I'm so impressed with the two of you on completing this canyon. I can't wait to give it a shot... maybe in a few years or so.

Thanks for the kind words! I'll be in touch!

[Scott P]

Scott, do you have any other info as to how he did it?

Steve Allen told me he has done the canyon using Dromedary water sacks. He filled the water the sacks up and let them drain while he rappelled down. It is entirely possible that I misunderstood (he didn't go into that much detail), but to me it sounded like he didn't leave anything behind.

[ratagonia]

Pardon my ignorance here, but what's the current story with SA? I know the backstory to him, but what's the current one? Is he still active? Does he stay in contact with you guys? Is he afraid of the blogosphere/forum world? Is he focused on climbing these days? I've always wondered what happened to these pioneers...us youngsters are curious!

Steve has had some health problems in the last couple of years that have really slowed him down. Some serious back problems, mostly. So it is harder getting out than in previous years.

Since he does not ego-blog in the interwebs, he does not "show up" much. He has never had all that much interest in well-traveled canyons or in tooting his own horn.

Tom

[Slot Machine]

He filled the water the sacks up and let them drain while he rappelled down.

Interesting. Scary.

Using those bags as anchors would take at least two days. The filling and draining time would be significant. That is a crazy and impressive feat, if in fact he did it that way.

[hesse15]

Is it still bolted to hell or did someone make good on the threats and pull them?

could you please leave the bolts alone!!!!!!

[hesse15]

Thanks Tom! It felt like a step up to the 'next level' for us. It was a good choice to test what we have already learned.

And for the pothole, Steph wanted to go in and scout it while I set up. She knew that it would take longer than the other potholes. She swam laps to keep warm in her super-thick wetsuit and felt fine once she climbed out. I was prepared to pull her out at any moment if needed. But generally, yes, the method you suggest is best.

Grandpa Ice, could you tell us how you drove there and why it's not possible nowadays?

you are a pretty lucky guy, not only she is beautiful,but she does all the hard-scary work for you!!!!!!

when i did it i let Ryan play with the pothole ,i get cold too easy and the the guy was able to jump from the water up the lip 5 ft.
planning to do that in 2 weeks and try to get some testosterone guys and carry in case my potshot and a cheater stick.
heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?

[Scott P]

heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?

The "Miners Shortcut" has now been written up by Shane and Tom:

http://climb-utah.com/SRS/squeeze1.htm

http://canyoncollective.com/betabase...ners-trail.63/

Is this the one you are referring to?

[Slot Machine]

you are a pretty lucky guy, not only she is beautiful,but she does all the hard-scary work for you!!!!!!

when i did it i let Ryan play with the pothole ,i get cold too easy and the the guy was able to jump from the water up the lip 5 ft.
planning to do that in 2 weeks and try to get some testosterone guys and carry in case my potshot and a cheater stick.
heard about a short cut up to the moroni slope any info?

Thanks for the kind words! Yes I am a lucky guy, no question.

Jump? WOW that is a feat!

Suggestion: Try the pothole without the cheater stick. It makes the pothole more interesting, and you certainly have the skills to conquer it.

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss.

We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know.

[hesse15]

Suggestion: Try the pothole without the cheater stick. It makes the pothole more interesting, and you certainly have the skills to conquer it.

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss.
We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know.

i have to check what Scott mentioned ,when I did it the approach suck,i remember we went up to an hill.
I will probably take a cheater stick anyway ,i never did any canyons with the 2 dudes I am going trough, so I want to cover my base in case i get cold and my energies are running low.
not planning to finish the canyon in the dark if I can!!!!
but probably will carry bleach's pills if I have to drink the pothole water!!!!
lookin at the map collective is like Ryan,but i remember we went crossing the muddy creek up, i was just hoping there was a shorter way some how!

[ratagonia]

I will probably take a cheater stick anyway ,i never did any canyons with the 2 dudes I am going trough, so I want to cover my base in case i get cold and my energies are running low.
not planning to finish the canyon in the dark if I can!!!!
but probably will carry bleach's pills if I have to drink the pothole water!!!!
lookin at the map collective is like Ryan,but i remember we went crossing the muddy creek up, i was just hoping there was a shorter way some how!

Are you approaching from Hidden Splendor or from Factory Butte?

I think the best trip is the Miner's Trail from Hidden Splendor, but it is not really any shorter.

The single bolt on the far side of the keeper is in an awkward place for using a cheater stick. Might not work.

Tom

[Erik B]

The ledge from which you launch your pack is very awkward. You must throw it hard to the left towards the exit lip, about 10-o'clock, from a fairly tight stance. One try... not far enough. Two tries... no. Three tries... splash! Not even close. Time to try a potshot. Good thing she's wearing a 7mm suit, or she would be frozen by now.

I hear you there! I went through The Squeeze on memorial day weekend and I whiffed 3 times with the pack toss in that same hole. I stemmed up a ways which helped, however, It is easy to become unstable in that particular instance. We, like you, also had a person freezing down in the pot, waiting for an escape route. Lesson learned. That pothole was DRAMATICALLY colder than the rest.

-Erik B.

[ratagonia]

I *think* we took the shortcut you are asking about. As you approach the Moroni Slopes from the Factory Butte trailhead, you will see a very clear path up the face. It's impossible to miss. We took this trail, and it sucked. I'm guessing it is more difficult than the trail that originates from the cottonwood grove. But I don't really know.

Yes, the trail off to the side that tracks away from the destination canyon is worse than the use-trail closer to the canyon that leads to the entry.

Tom

[qedcook]

There are not that many people around who know how to put good bolts in soft sandstone.

I'm willing to support anyone interested in working on it with training and tools.

This is another Tom-ism that is said frequently. I can only go on personal experience, but I've installed a few bolts in the sandstone rocks nears my house about 5 years ago, and they are still as solid as ever. I could see how this could be difficult for some, but if you know what you're doing it's fairly straightforward.

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

Here's an -ism from me. A 75% bolt holds more than a deadman ever could.

[Slot Machine]

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

Here's an -ism from me. A 75% bolt holds more than a deadman ever could.

Thanks for offering to help. With a large & skilled team the canyon could be vastly improved in a day.

Deadman anchors are great because they are inspectable. It takes 100% x-ray vision to know if a single bolt is 75% or not.

[Scott P]

I loved this canyon when I did it, so I'm willing to help any way I can. However, I don't remember too many anchors that made me terribly nervous.

The Swell is rather notorious for bad bolts.

Bolts only placed half way in in Eadley (replaced since); bolts you can pull out with your bare hands in Baptist, and extremely poorly placed ones (hardware store ones with washers and no hangars) in the Black Box to name a few.

[qedcook]

Bolts only placed half way in in Eadley (replaced since).

I remember a couple of bad pitons in Eardley.

[ratagonia]

I could see how this could be difficult for some, but if you know what you're doing it's fairly straightforward.

Glad to see you agree with me.

I don't know what a 75% bolt is. I have removed 3 bolts over the years with a simple tug of the fingers. I would consider those 0% bolts.

Tom

[Erik B]

.

The single bolt on the far side of the keeper is in an awkward place for using a cheater stick. Might not work.

Tom

The guys that went through a day before me said they used a cheater stick + Ibis hook successfully though I could see the angle being a little wonky. We went with a pack toss.


BTW: here is one of those awesome bolts from The Squeeze (taken last week) you all are talking about: At least the webbing is new! phew! I was worried it was unsafe for a second. :)

-EB

[ratagonia]

The guys that went through a day before me said they used a cheater stick + Ibis hook successfully though I could see the angle being a little wonky. We went with a pack toss.


BTW: here is one of those awesome bolts from The Squeeze (taken last week) you all are talking about: At least the webbing is new! phew! I was worried it was unsafe for a second. :)

-EB

Ah yes, nice pic, though a bit misleading. Though not a faith-enhancing bolt, it is, after all, not really used for anything. (The rappels proceeds to the left, so only the lower bolt is weighted.)

Fullish anchor survey here:

http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/rave/...vey-sept-2012/

The point is not that there are not a lot of bad bolts in there, (is that a triple negative?); the point is that there is at least one OK bolt for every genuine rappel.

Here's the pic of the second to last anchor, part of which Erik showed.

Tom

[Jolly Green]

How were the bugs?