Alcatraz from both directions

[USofCS]

Every time I do Alcatraz I get the end and think, if I only had a rope to get back up it would really make this trip a lot faster. So finally I experimented with the concept. Once we arrived at the rim we surveyed the left side and started hiking around to see if there is an anchor and a place that we could drop a line and get down into the exit. Armed with our 300' and 200' rope we set off. After only about ten minutes we landed in a tiny drainage with a rather large tree that seemed pretty close to the exit. I always remember this sight and so we found this tree to test and see if we were close. . After throwing the 300' rope down I still couldn't tell if it hit the ground so we attached the 200 just in case. I started to rappel down just enough to see over the edge and we had landed exactly where we had hoped. Right after the last tight section and the spot where Alcatraz opens up with sand banks marking the end of the super narrow stuff. We estimated the rappel was around 300' and even if we had to pass a knot it should be pretty easy.

We had a group of ten people and so instead of all working our way down I came up with the plan of half the group rappelling down and hiking up the canyon while the other half go back to the start and go down the normal way. This way they can set up the rappel at the keeper pothole so that when the down canyon group arrives we can simply ascend up.

So we parted ways and started our journey. The rappel down into the bottom was amazing. Marked at 285' and through a natural arch it was really cool.

After that it was down to business. The canyon appeared to be about half full of water so that was a fun added bonus. Our goal was to arrive at the top as dry as possible. Getting around the first two obstacles was a bit tough, the rappel with the bolt was a little challenging to get around and stay dry at the same time. I stemmed up and then used some webbing attached to my back and managed to toss it into a secure spot to give a hand over. Once up I fixed a line and allowed the other members to climb up.

The next long section of narrows was full of challenge and fun. The hardest parts seemed to be the really narrow sections that you had to go straight up at as well as the tiny cork screw parts that our feet kept getting stuck in.



One of the best surprises was to find a full unopened Gatorade bottle at the top of a particularly tight section. It made a nice refreshing break. So thanks for whoever left that in the canyon!

We ran into our other group about 100 yards from the up climbing. At this point we went into challenge mode of trying to beat them out of the canyon. We arrived at the rappel and quickly ascended up, thankful that nobody had come after them and snagged the rope!


After that it was just a few more up climbs and stemming to arrive at last pool before the large up climb. Still dry I was bound and determined to get around the pool without getting wet. It took about ten minutes of trying different things, but was finally able to stem on my tip toes to get across.\


Then it was a matter of getting out (we didn't do the 100' ascend to the top) just walked around and headed back to where are friends were coming out. Once we arrived we learned that they managed to get out and one up the near 300' ascend before we could make it out.

Overal it was a great day and had a blast trying a different take on an already amazing canyon.

[Scott Card]

Cool and well done.

[Mountaineer]

Really enjoyed this. Especially liked how you found an alternate way mid canyon (~300') to get in there.

This canyon is one of my favorites, but the return was a bit long. Nice alternative option.

[Taylor]

I agree! Very cool and well done.