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04-22-2013, 03:17 PM #1
Post your anchor improvements/replacements
Stole this idea from the canyon trash album. Rules are simple: take a before and after picture of an anchor you replaced because it was old or just poorly rigged. If you want, you can say where and what rap the photo was from.
Before: log double wrapped with webbing, but tied only to one loop.
After: log double wrapped and both loops ties in an overhand knot.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 LikesWorkBad liked this post
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04-22-2013 03:17 PM # ADS
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04-22-2013, 04:33 PM #2
Stole my thread did ya! ARRRR ye be a pirate! JK good idea.
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04-22-2013, 05:14 PM #3THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
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04-22-2013, 05:30 PM #4
If one strand in "a" is cut the anchor fails where as in "b" is one stand fails its backed up. At least that's how it looks to me in the pics.
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04-22-2013, 05:43 PM #5THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
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04-22-2013, 05:53 PM #6
First pic is a "wrap 2 pull 1", it has it's place, mostly to locate webbing at an exact spot on a particular feature.
ie. want to make a pull cleaner by having webbing higher on a tree, without risk of it slipping down the tree, etc.
it is not tied proper for a wrap 2 pull 1 but close.
If you don't know why you are changing out webbing or more importantly, how you will improve what's there, maybe you need skoolin'
2nd picture appears to be a 4 strand "basket hitch", if so, it would be rated for around 16,000lbs.I'm not Spartacus
It'll come back.
Professional Mangler of Grammar
Guns don't kill people--Static Ropes Do!!
Who Is John Galt?
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04-22-2013, 06:44 PM #7
I'm not saying I would worry about the tree cutting the webbing. I was just pointing out what I seen. I have no problem rapping from a wrap 2 pull 1 setup.
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04-22-2013, 07:30 PM #8
Makes sense.
So, @mzamp, what spurred the rebuild?THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
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04-22-2013, 08:17 PM #9
Idk I wasn't there. I have no clue where or what this rappel is. Just pointing out the difference between the 2. Personally unless the first webbing was old and crappy I would have been fine with it. However I also think the 2nd webbing is a complete bomber anchor that wouldn't need replacing anytime soon. It's a clean way to make a really solid anchor. And it looks a lot less tacky then when everybody just adds a stand of webbing to back up an anchor and we end up with 3 seperate strands of different colored webbing. I think mzamp has a clean looking solid anchor there. Great job.
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04-22-2013, 09:01 PM #10
Right-o. I hear ya, loud and clear. I'm trying to get further clarification from @mzamp... maybe should have witten my last post a little more clearly. ?
THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
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04-22-2013, 09:12 PM #11
So maybe it might be more prudent to take this thread in a different direction.
How about we do a "whats wrong" thread?
I started one years ago on the old aca site and it was a great learning tool.
If Shane will move this, start with the first picture and ask yourself--whats wrong.
It has flaws, albeit not potentially serious ones.I'm not Spartacus
It'll come back.
Professional Mangler of Grammar
Guns don't kill people--Static Ropes Do!!
Who Is John Galt?
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04-22-2013, 09:19 PM #12
Big Cottonwood Canyon, SLC...
Before:
After:
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04-22-2013, 09:33 PM #13
Wow - what a mess before on that one. What's that rusty thing holdng the right hanger in?
fyi - I replaced the webbing only because I was told we were the first to go through this season and it felt brittle and had slight fraying.
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04-22-2013, 09:36 PM #14
Deleted. Reposted in appropriate "what's wrong" thread.
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04-22-2013, 09:48 PM #15If I am not mistaken, on a wrap 2 pull 1, the water knot should be against the front of the tree so that more friction is working in your favor to help reduce the stress on the knot.
In the picture, the quicklink is attached to the webbing at an overhand on a bight. I think this knot would become the weak spot in the rigging and negate the strengthening effects of isolating the water knot mid-tree.Last edited by SRG; 04-22-2013 at 09:51 PM. Reason: grammar
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04-23-2013, 07:38 AM #16THE MOST TALKED ABOUT CANYONEERING TRIP OF 2017 - WEST CANYON VIA HELICOPTER.
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04-23-2013, 08:45 AM #17
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04-23-2013, 09:03 AM #18
The wedge style anchor has been the go to anchoring system for a while now. I am curious as to how the new Titan HD bolts could possibly be a new improvement. They are easier to install and have a much greater pull out strength and shear strength than the wedge style. I know in a lot of our applications we are now required to use the HD's instead of wedge anchors when installing into concrete surfaces. I will see if I can find any info on using them in sandstone.
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04-23-2013, 09:48 AM #19
On both of the photos in the original post, what is the purpose of putting a knot near the rapid link?
Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.
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04-23-2013, 10:44 AM #20
Master point isolation methinks, Scott.
For anchors which use a loop that's also knotted, I guess the thinking is that if one of the strands of webbing were to wear out, the other's would take up the slack, so to speak, without a total anchor failure. Seems to be commonly done now.
I like a simple sling around a tree with the rapide loose. Makes it easy to roll the webbing around for a complete 360 degree inspection. Also, can shift to spread out the wear if needed. For redundancy, I'd almost prefer another separate sling, than, a doubled sling.
Advantages and disadvantages to both, I suppose...
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