Near-miss: biner block error

[summitseeker]

Biner Block Failure

I am leaving the details of this event vague to avoid placing blame.

My canyoneering party came upon a group of four in a canyon very recently. We caught up to them at one of the larger rappels after two of their group members had descended and a third had just gone on rappel. The group leader remained at the top. The anchor was an existing piece of webbing, unequalized, and tied to two mini arches. The webbing had a large rap-ring through which the group had threaded a rope with a“biner block”. The block had a pull cord attached with a figure eight follow-through and was setup for a toss. We informed the group leader we could retrieve their rope if it would help them and they agreed. The leader untied the pull cord and stored it in their pack. The rappeller was a novice and taking their time on the rappel. As we were waiting we noticed movement and slippage on the rope. Trying not to pry, we inquired about the chosen anchor set-up and got a closer look. The leader explained that the rap-ring was really big and the biner block was pulling through so they had set an additional carabiner to the block in order to add friction and prevent the biner block from pulling through. The leader’s account did not jive with the known physicsof a biner block and raised some flags in our minds. We looked at the biner block and the knot and found it to be an incorrectly tied clove-hitch in the form of an overhand type hitch. I started to suggest that we backup the setup by clipping in the end of the rope but before we could take a second look, the rope started to slowly slip through the block and the ring. With the pullcord knot removed from the end of the rope, and an improper clove-hitch, the whole system was about to fail with someone still on rappel. I grabbed the rope and my partner quickly clipped the free rope end through his ATC to prevent slippage. The rappeller was on the ground safely shortly after, unaware they almost suffered a different fate.

Analysis:
Inspection of the knot yielded an incorrectly tied clove-hitch. The group must have thought the knot to be correct and attributed the slippage to lack of friction on the ring. This explanation showed a lack of understanding of the block fundamentals. We educated the leader about tying the clovehitch. The leader seemed embarrassed and recognized the error and potential severity.

As canyoneers we must remember that everyone is responsible for safety checks and double checks. If something looks wrong or feels wrong, it should be redone or reevaluated. As outsiders to the group weall agreed that we felt like we were imposing and were afraid to speak up when the initial warning signs arose. However, when it became apparent that we were witnessing a dangerous situation our group effort and quick actions prevented an accident due to a knot failure. All backcountry adventures should feel empowered to lend a hand and assist others. If people are writing their names on the canyon walls, educate them. If kids are too close to an edge, speak up. If an anchor is inches away from catastrophic failure, fix it immediately. We all have a duty to prevent injury to others and the environment.

[Spartacus]

Great post! Totally agree. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[Iceaxe]

Great post! Totally agree. Thanks for sharing your experience.

X2

Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

[joeb]

Thanks for the post, it reminded me about the young man who recently died when their rigging failed and how it is very easy to just start "going through the motions" - this is the cold water to the face I need to make sure I continue to triple check everything.

[penmartens]

Thanks for posting. Things can go so very wrong so very quickly. I teach my newbies from the very start they are responsible for themselves and they have a responsibility to the group. They ALL have to know:
1. How to get back to the TH/car/camp
2. How to set up to rappel
3. How to check others
4. How to set basic anchors
5. How to check anchors
6. How to do a final check before they rappel.

If I am unable to do the final check for each individual, someone is assigned to that job.
We all have to start somewhere and with an eye towards safety we will all live long enough to decide if we want to continue with the sport.
I'm headed out with a mixed group this weekend. This was a good reminder to go over some things before we leave the TH.

Thanks again,
Penny

[Iceaxe]

When I was reading summitseeker's post thoughts of Keith's death in Heaps kept creeping into my thoughts...

http://www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?26059

It's good someone stepped in.

[Brian in SLC]

Whew. Just....whew.

I edjumacated a kid next to me on a rock climb last weekend. Seemed amenable to the advice, but, still asked "why". I explained, he seemed good with it. Was an explanation on why most folks clip a quickdraw into the bolt, with the biner on the loose end, and the captive end goes on the biner. He properly clipped for the rest of the route he was leading. Glad he didn't fall on the one draw that was clipped incorrectly...stayed this way the whole time he climbed:



Sometimes its good to speak up.

Whew!

[Stray]

Thank you for sharing. As more and more people jump into this sport, the more we need to watch out for each other.

A couple weeks ago, in Monoxide, we discovered an anchor built with 1/2 in webbing. Back at the car, we ran into this group. They asked us what we thought of their anchor.

Without comment, we handed them back their webbing.

[Mountaineer]

Thank you for sharing. As more and more people jump into this sport, the more we need to watch out for each other.

A couple weeks ago, in Monoxide, we discovered an anchor built with 1/2 in webbing. Back at the car, we ran into this group. They asked us what we thought of their anchor.

Without comment, we handed them back their webbing.

Which fork? We were in there a few weeks ago, and rigged the west (passed the first under boulder rap) with another rap that I wanted to extend and get rid of the blue webbing we found. That spot could be considered also a down climb on the right.



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