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Thread: Hogwarts

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBird View Post
    Nice photos. Hogwarts is definitely on the to-do list. thinking of heading that direction in the spring. Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs? they are good hikers but no canyon experience. High stemming and much water are probably not a good idea. I don't want to get too crazy for their first time.
    Thanks!

    The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?). I would go do a couple of easier canyons first. Maybe East Lep, West Blarney, then Hogwarts.
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  3. #22
    Content Provider Emeritus ratagonia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slot Machine View Post
    Thanks!

    The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?). I would go do a couple of easier canyons first. Maybe East Lep, West Blarney, then Hogwarts.
    I think that pothole thing could be a problem. There's a lot I would choose before Hogwarts - like East and West Lep, and especially Morocco, which is much more straightforward, AND has an easier approach, and no climbing problems at all.

    Tom

  4. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by ratagonia View Post
    I think that pothole thing could be a problem. There's a lot I would choose before Hogwarts - like East and West Lep, and especially Morocco, which is much more straightforward, AND has an easier approach, and no climbing problems at all.

    Tom
    If you are committed to getting muddy and/or wet, the pothole is no big deal. Kinda fun actually. I can't think of a scenerio where if one went low, you would get into trouble. However, if you try to get cute with it, and go high, yeah you could get hurt badly.

    Another concern is rope grooves (with new folks). If you intend to lead, be sure to communicate to your group that preventing grooves are a top priority. Extend all groovy anchors to the edge (or over).

    I did forget about the approach... there is one trickyish upclimb. Somewhat exposed 3rd class? Not terrible, but it took us a minute to figure out.

    Generally, I agree with Tom, there are many easier (and very good) canyons in the immediate area that should be considered first.
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  6. #24
    Cool, thanks guys. I'll look into those others first.

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  8. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBird View Post
    Nice photos. Hogwarts is definitely on the to-do list. thinking of heading that direction in the spring. Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs? they are good hikers but no canyon experience. High stemming and much water are probably not a good idea. I don't want to get too crazy for their first time.
    Just went through on Saturday. A lot of fun. I don't think the approach would be very challenging for someone who has some experience doing more difficult hikes. Also, most of the challenging stuff in the technical portion can be overcome if you have two people with experience in the group (one person to get in and out of the pothole first with another to help up, one experienced person on the long rappel to go first and another to make sure the new people set up right, etc.)

  9. #26
    Nice TR Bob! Way to get down n dirty on the pothole escape, looks like fun. Thanks for the canyon maintenance.

    The last rappel in Hogwarts might be intense for someone who hasn't rappelled before, because it is overhung and awkward (70-80 feet?).
    A couple years ago I did Hogwarts and our 60m rope was too short on that last rappel. The anchor was a large rectangular flake-boulder back about 20ft from the edge. We fed out one side of the rope until it touched the ground, tied a 'biner block in and rapped single strand. Our whole party rapped and the last man down, who was surprised to find the pull cord was about 15 ft off the ground, had to lock off on rappel and ghetto-rig 15ft of webbing onto our pull-cord. Is this still the anchor? Does anyone know the exact length of this rappel from the lip? How bout from the anchor?

    Also, what was the anchor situation for the short rappel just after the pothole? I've seen a slung hueco/mini arch thing that wasn't confidence inspiring. Any chance it is still a deadman equalized off a cobble?

    Would Hogwarts be suitable to me bringing along some canyon newbs?
    I'd say it should be OK to bring beginners through as long as you know what your doing(especially considering that this thread turned into a step-by-step how-to guide on descending Hogwarts ). NOT leading beginners through canyons with stemming, sketchy downclimbs, or long canyons with rapidfire obstacles and cold water exposure is my rule. I find that the risk from things like anchor problems, potholes escapes and rappelling can often be mitigated by an experienced leader, and those are the type of challenges you'll likely encounter in Hogwarts.

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  11. #27
    Content Provider Emeritus ratagonia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRG View Post


    A couple years ago I did Hogwarts and our 60m rope was too short on that last rappel. The anchor was a large rectangular flake-boulder back about 20ft from the edge. We fed out one side of the rope until it touched the ground, tied a 'biner block in and rapped single strand. Our whole party rapped and the last man down, who was surprised to find the pull cord was about 15 ft off the ground, had to lock off on rappel and ghetto-rig 15ft of webbing onto our pull-cord. Is this still the anchor? Does anyone know the exact length of this rappel from the lip? How bout from the anchor?
    90 feet. http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/mi...ns/?i=hogwarts

    That's probably from the lip. If dry, a deadman near the lip works. When wet, the "Alligator" has become the normal anchor.

    Also, it is not necessary to go all the way to the ground. With a little swing, you can get off at the ledge 15' off the ground.

    Nothing wrong with tying a piece of webbing to the end of the pull side.

    Also, what was the anchor situation for the short rappel just after the pothole? I've seen a slung hueco/mini arch thing that wasn't confidence inspiring. Any chance it is still a deadman equalized off a cobble?
    You didn't like the hueco?

    I'd say it should be OK to bring beginners through as long as you know what your doing(especially considering that this thread turned into a step-by-step how-to guide on descending Hogwarts ). NOT leading beginners through canyons with stemming, sketchy downclimbs, or long canyons with rapidfire obstacles and cold water exposure is my rule. I find that the risk from things like anchor problems, potholes escapes and rappelling can often be mitigated by an experienced leader, and those are the type of challenges you'll likely encounter in Hogwarts.
    I would suggest taking beginners through a canyon you have not done before is probably not a good idea. Remember that couple in Heaps last summer???

    Tom

  12. #28

    Hogwarts

    Sort if off topic, but....

    Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

    Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!

  13. #29

    Hogwarts

    Quote Originally Posted by ratagonia View Post



    I would suggest taking beginners through a canyon you have not done before is probably not a good idea. Remember that couple in Heaps last summer???

    Tom
    I guess it kind of depends on how you define beginners. Those two were willfully ignorant. Hopefully an anomaly. I've taken plenty of first-time canyoneers through canyons I've not done before. That said tho, they've all been very physically capable individuals with good rope skill and climbing experience.

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  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by moab mark View Post
    I'm pretty sure that is the spot. When Tad and I were there that had a bunch of water in it. We backed up a bit and climbed up and went over and chimneyed down the crack that you drop into after you climb out. We did not go thru that hole. It doesn't look doable but it was pretty easy. Where he is giving the thumbs up in the picture there is a crack coming down on the other side of that wall that is where we came down. We were quite proud of ourselves.

    Mark
    We went down last Saturday and there was no water in that pothole. I stemmed over it and my friends dropped in and got out pretty easily. I pointed out to one that I thought they could just pop over the top and chimney down where you came down. It didn't look too bad to me but they weren't excited about it. I think it looks harder from the up canyon side of the pothole. Totally doable though.
    - Gavin

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  17. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Bootboy View Post
    Sort if off topic, but....

    Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

    Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!
    Scroll about a third of the way down on Stefan's page:
    http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/ca...anyonames/#nlp

  18. #32
    Also, it is not necessary to go all the way to the ground. With a little swing, you can get off at the ledge 15' off the ground.
    Hmmm, this is good to know, thanks for the tip.

    You didn't like the hueco?
    It's just sooooo small from what I recall. Huecos always give me the willies though.

  19. #33
    So, has anyone tried the new anchor on rap #1? Thoughts?

    Did anyone think of a better placement and move it? Just curious.
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  20. #34
    Content Provider Emeritus ratagonia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bootboy View Post
    Sort if off topic, but....

    Who named this canyon? I'll admit I am somewhat anti Harry potter (I've read a couple of the books, and think they're rubbish) and think it totally lacking in creativity and originality to name a canyon after contemporary preteen-targeted, brain rot literature.

    Haha! Just thought I'd drop in and stir a pot!
    When you search out and share canyons, you get to name them. Even when you name them, they may not necessarily stick.

    There is a long history of naming rock climbing routes in honor of contemporary pop culture. I have been turned on to some very good novels as a result of doing the routes. Such as Darkness at Noon: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darkness_at_Noon

    It also places the route in a context of time and place, sometimes.

    And if it annoys the 2% of the population that dislikes Harry Potter, all the better!

    Tom

  21. #35
    Content Provider Emeritus ratagonia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bootboy View Post
    I guess it kind of depends on how you define beginners. Those two were willfully ignorant. Hopefully an anomaly. I've taken plenty of first-time canyoneers through canyons I've not done before. That said tho, they've all been very physically capable individuals with good rope skill and climbing experience.
    I have taken beginners through canyons I have not done before, and had it be a mistake (but no one got hurt, so I got away with it).

    Jus' sayin'...

    Tom

  22. #36

    Re: Hogwarts

    If I take beginners through canyons I have not done before I place a premium on who I received the beta from and how much I trust that person.

    Tap'n on my Galaxy G3

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