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Thread: Elephant Butte
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12-11-2012, 10:03 AM #21
It's pretty dry out there, at least last week it was.
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12-11-2012 10:03 AM # ADS
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12-11-2012, 10:14 AM #22
Last anchor in Heaps? Been a cordellete for quite some time. Useful for rigging from multiple anchors to a single "power point" I suppose. Seems cleaner for some applications than webbing (easier to inspect?).
I'm not seeing much in the way of testing over edges of cord versus webbing. Hmmm...maybe this:
http://www.jrre.org/moy_qual.pdf
Interesting. "Abrasion along the rope" test:
Looking at the data, the one thing that stands out as blindingly obvious is that webbing is awful! For a round rope, only afew fibers at a time are exposed to the rock edge, and the rope wears a few fibers at a time. For webbing, almost all thefibers are abraded on every cycle, and it fails very quickly.
The abrasionacross the edge test is, in my opinion, one of the best for evaluating ropes. The test was quite consistent -see the small error bars on the chart, and this is the type of failure that worries me the most on actual rescue operations.Where abrasion along the rope should be seen at the next rope inspection, abrasion across the rope can produceimmediate catastrophic failure - even at low loads like body weight. This test again clearly demonstrated that webbing isawful in abrasion.
ConclusionsFor the most part, readers can draw their own conclusions from the test data, or better yet, repeat these or other tests ontheir own equipment. For our group, we found nothing that scares us away from either of the brands of rope wecurrently have in service. The primary difference we will focus on in our training is the difference in elasticity. The testresults for webbing make very clear what we have known for a long time. For rock anchors, if there is any possibilitythat an anchor could shift when it is loaded, webbing should not be used. If it is used on rock, edges should be wellpadded.
Some of the ropes used were down to 3/8" diameter. Interesting. Wonder how 7mm cord would fair against 1" webbing? My bet, based on the testing referenced, it'd do fairly well.
Hmmm....
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12-11-2012, 11:53 AM #23
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12-11-2012, 12:28 PM #24
Is the Wrona cord still the same anchor for Heaps? Yikes!
BD rigged up a abrasion test for quickdraws awhile back. Be interesting to see how 9/16 BW webbing, 1" webbing, and 7mm accessory cord all stacked up. Hmmm.
I wonder, from a visual wear standpoint, if, a cord might be easier to see damage on? Cut half way through versus the wear on a flat piece of webbing? Dunno.
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12-12-2012, 09:12 AM #25
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12-12-2012, 09:22 AM #26CanyoneeringUtah.blogspot.com
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