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Thread: Sandthrax Video 10-11-12
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10-24-2012, 02:54 PM #21
Ha! Squamish. That's a friend of mine who's filiming...hilarious!
Poor Cedar...!
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10-24-2012 02:54 PM # ADS
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10-24-2012, 06:19 PM #22
I've done both... but, yeah, 20 years apart. My best efforts being Crack of Fear on the Twin Owls (1988) and the Hollow Flake on the Big Stone (1994?). I got up both of those, free; one of em even "on lead", if you wanna call that "on lead".
Not like I do rated climbs any more. But, after aiding as high as a #5 camalot gets you, I thought it was hard 5.9 or easy 5.10 to get up the next two feet. Skinny squeeze at that point, rather than OW. After that, cake.
I disagree with a previous poster's description. It does not have a sense of exposure. It is just off vertical, so it does not try to spit you out. The problem is making progress. It has one prominent foothold that gets you up the first 5 feet. After that, there are no extraneous holds, inside or out. The size is just wrong. You can get a hand/fist stack at full extension in the back, which or course does absolutely no good. It is a corner crack, and the outside corner is smoothly rounded making it useless. Couldn't get anything with my feet.
People who have successfully free climbed it went over-the-top (Steve Brezovec, 11c bridging (and he is short!)) or used hip flexibility (cheaters!) to stem off the wall behind the climber (too far away for me to use). Someone who is a better climber than me (not hard) and especially someone skinny could probably thrutch up it at easy 5.11 level.
Tom
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10-24-2012, 10:10 PM #23
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10-28-2012, 04:38 PM #24
Very impressive. Great video
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10-29-2012, 08:09 PM #25
He aided it on home-made cams and pieces of wood (peeking out of my yellow bag in pic, below).
Attachment 60620
Attachment 60621
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