Brake Bleeding help please

[Mtnseeker1]

K so about 3 months ago I decided to replace all my brake fluid and try as I might to keep things right. Right?
I have not rode my bike for several weeks and low and behold it seems like the front brake is just plain wrong.

VERY SOFT
I used a clear hose and bleed till the dark stuff looked clear to me.
This is what I used and yes it is DOT # 4.


I am not sure if it is a fluid problem but I have never seen any leeks.

Any ideas from anyone ??

[Mtnseeker1]

Oh and on a side note: I first noticed it when I went to pull my bike out of the truck.
I blew it off thinking it was just the slick truck bed liner that I have.

She seemed right after one pump on the Break lever and down and out she rolled for the ride.
The thing is I have not had this happen but a few times so I have rode it off as a slippery truck bed. Maybe 1 out of 8 times of unloading the bike.


Is this a caliper piston issue? It only messes with me when it has been awhile between rides.
But lately I have noticed it might be off on some rocky down hill desert type stuff.
I blew it off then thinking it was just to low of air pressure up front.
When I do notice it I can dbl pump it and all is well or so it seems for a good long time.
Any ideas?

Nothing seems to boil like some of my friends on the orange KTM's that have to stop and pore water on the rear brakes.
It is just a lack of kind of feeling but goes away fast and then all is good even in the nasty stuff.

[Mtnseeker1]

The rotor is good and the pads are good and I don't feel like I've got an over heating issue cause it happens mostly when the bike has sat awhile and cold.

But it does seem to me to be getting worse as time goes by or rather more and more as time goes by or maybe I'm just starting to notice it.


Oh and I gravity bleed them and not pressure or pumped them to bleed if that makes any difference. Air bubbles?

[RedSpecialized]

Sounds like air in the lines. If pumping them makes it better, that is a sure sign of air in the lines. If it were me & my bike I would preasure bleed it. Much easier with two people. One to pump and hold the break while the works the bleeder valve on the caliper.

Got to be fun riding with no front brake......?:sly:

[Garbanzo]

You may have already done this, but just in case you tried to push fluid from the master cylinder going down to the bleeder on the caliper: You'll want to backward (uphill) bleed them. I bought this syringe at Walmart near the Pharmacy. It was part of the Baby section. The metal connector was perfect to insert (tightly) a 1/4" or 3/8" (can't remember which) hose into it and then the other end tightly fit over the bleeder valve on my bike. Buy the hose that fits your bleeder and then take it to find the syringe/plunger. As long as it is a tight fit on both ends, anything will work. Make sure to get 2 ft of hose.

Take the cover off the master cylinder. Fill the syringe with brake fluid. Push fluid up to the end of the clear tubing. Attach the tubing to the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder and slowly push fluid into it, and watch the fluid in the master cylinder. You should see bubbles entering the master cylinder. Make sure to keep the syringe upright (pushing downward) so you don't chance air getting in. Let the fluid run out of the master cylinder (if necessary) until you don't see any more bubbles. tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing and dab the excess fluid out of the master cylinder with a rag or paper towel. Just make sure you don't get any contaminants in it. Replace the cover on the master cylinder and pump the brake. If it's an air problem, this should fix it.
As long as your bike calls for DOT 4, you should be fine. I just bled my clutch this way and it worked like a charm.

KEEP IN MIND. Air travels upward and when you bleed by pumping fluid from the master to the slave, it is downward. It won't work. The fluid will move, but the air will remain. You have to back bleed to get it right. It the same way on the front and the rear.
This has been my experience anyway. Good Luck and call me if you get hung up.

[Mtnseeker1]

That's how I did them front and back will one of those hair dye bottle the gals use and a hose then just caught all the over flow with a rag till it looked nice a clear in the res.

Maybe I'll try again and tap with a rubber mallet from bleeder up and watch for bubbles.

[Garbanzo]

I thought I might be telling you something you already know. Maybe it will help someone who doesn't. Noobs.

[nelsonccc]

If the brake is spongy with little to no resistance then there is air in the line. Just re-bleed up from the caliper. I pretty much do what Garbonzo says but I use another syringe to suck out the fluid in the master cyliner as it fills up. If the problem persists then it's either a seal at the cylinder (unlikely) or a weak hose that is expanding instead of sending the fluid to the caliper (also unlikely). Probably just needs a bleed.

PS....front brakes are for pussy's.

[Mtnseeker1]

Aw shoot, It does leak but only if I don't ride here for a week or two. Like 1/2 a drop and with one pump she's as good as new-BUT.
Seems to be coming from the bolt that is the three way for the hose up top.
I replaced the bolt and the washers and still a leeky.
So I pulled out my 6" magna glass and took a good looksy at the threads of the old bolt and there it was.
A bit of grey at the top and 1/3 down the bolt. It's putty or thread tear from the alloy off the master.
Dammit another 200 smacks in the arse. plus line just to make sure.
I could ride on it for another year I'd bet but why try?

I really need that break from time to time and all the dam time.

But ya nelson that is how I do it to but I also use a ragg when I'm pushing all the old brown stuff out from the bottom.
I just use a soft bottle and squeeze to drain and same to fill.
Two peeps and two bottles is the ideal set up.
A wrench in one hand and a bottle in the other for the man down low and a rag and a bottle for up top.

And I know your going to make a some gay ass remark out of this one for sure.