Ahhh choices.. ropes, routes, and other fun stuff

[Renatomic808]

Well, so I'm starting to plan a couple of big first descents soon. One of the things i know I'll need, is more ropes. Apparently using ropes 2x's a week, with an average of 5 - 14 rappels per route, and 4-5 people on the crew, tend to wear down ropes pretty darn quick.

I've been using Sterling Rit 500, Sterling C IV, and another rope (unnamed), which is a 6mm full technora rope (break strength is 4700lbs).

However, i'm debating on trying some other ropes.. such as Tom's Imlay canyon ropes, Bluewater DS 8mm, etc.. Just looking for some feedback onto some ropes that we could play with. I've rappelled with the 6mm and its super for descents... but holy crap its a pain in the butt for a rescue, or ascending. So i may get more of that, but use it as a pull rope, or emergency escape.

I'm curious on the Imlay ropes though. Very reasonably priced. I'd love to try it and take it out on some of these "undone routes".. but would like to get a feel for it first. Bluewater DS looks great.. but holy crap its expensive.

Just looking for advice and opinions from others on wear and tear on the ropes, pros and cons, and of course prices.

A little teaser.. one of the routes, we expect a couple of the drops to be close to 1000ft

[Iceaxe]

Well, so I'm starting to plan a couple of big first descents soon. One of the things i know I'll need, is more ropes. Apparently using ropes 2x's a week, with an average of 5 - 14 rappels per route, and 4-5 people on the crew, tend to wear down ropes pretty darn quick.

My experiencee is it depends who is rappellingg on your ropes more then how many.... I have ropes that are 4 and 5 years old and are used every other week... and I have ropes that are trashed after one trip. As a general rule noobs are death to ropes as they move right and left a lot and don't pay any attention to rope management. Also if you have one member of your regular crew that does not use good technique you will notice a reduced life in your ropes. Sometimes a little coaching has a positive effect on rope life.

As for what rope to buy I find the value per dollar of Tom's Imlay ropes hard to beat. The more I replace ropes the more Imlay ropes I notice ending up in my gear closet. YMMV

[Deathcricket]

I own the Canyonfire and Canyonero and some REI 10mm climbing rope. The Canyonfire wears out pretty fast. I am about to retire this one after about 25-30 trips this season. And that is being rough on them. I swing, bounce, spin, etc. But still happy with it's performance, just getting nervous about it. The Canyonero has only been on 12 trips, but it doesn't show any kind of wear at all yet. And then the 10MM climbing rope from REI I have used for climbing about 5 years and about 20 canyons, 200ish rope climbs (as a top rope, not lead climb since it's static) only shows slight wear.

So if you want my advice go with the Canyonero, slightly thicker, slightly more heavy, but seems like way better against wear and tear. Since that seems to be one of the main things you are concerned about. I'm sure your lava rock up there is wayyyy harsher than our soft sandstone down here. Good Luck though! Anxious to hear about your first descents brother!

[mzamp]

[DISCLAIMER --- This is a joke]
I saw these 100ft ropes at home depot...for under $10.00. They even come in a variety of colors.

[Eric Holden]

I saw these 100ft ropes at home depot...for under $10.00. They even come in a variety of colors.

Watch out, someone might think you are serious

[deagol]

I am a fan of rope protectors used over sharp lips, FWIW. Basalt seems like it could easily cut even the toughest rope, so more important to protect it over sharp spots