What is the safest and easiest rappelling device?

[Brian in SLC]

ATC XP can have plenty of friction...demonstrated here by Tracey on the last rap to the deck on Devil's Castle last weekend. Set of double ropes. 9-ish-mm.

Kids, don't try this at home (no back up)...



(Good to see you up there MB!)

[KanyonKasey]

When I rappelled for the first time I used an 8, same as when I was in basic. When I got into it again I used an ATC original. I have been using the ATC ever since I found it easy to use and easy to show others. The dangers are what the others have said, forgetting to strand the rope through the biner. Another issue is if you rappel into water, you can lose the device when trying to unhook. I have used it to belay as well so it is good to have for climbing as well. I dont know much about the other devices so I can say anything about them.

Here is a review video on the totem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFidt...ure=plpp_video

[Iceaxe]

Another issue is if you rappel into water, you can lose the device when trying to unhook.

Actually..... if you know what you are doing the ATC should never come off your biner so you should never drop it.

When you unclip open your biner and flip the rope out, but leave the wire thingy attached to the biner at all times. It's easy with a little practice.


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[2065toyota]

I carry a short quick draw on my left gear loop and when doing a water disconnect clip it to the Atc before disconnecting just in case. It is also nice because when hiking you can also clip it in and your biner and Atc are held tight to you instead of bouncing around

[ilipichicuma]

Actually..... if you know what you are doing the ATC should never come off your biner so you should never drop it.

When you unclip open your biner and flip the rope out, but leave the wire thingy attached to the biner at all times. It's easy with a little practice.

Wire thingy. Definitely a technical term.

[optikal]

I use a Sterling ATS and love it! It's really quick for getting on/off the rope, and water disconnects are not a concern. I like having the friction horns, makes locking off a breeze and it allows for a variety of ways to adjust friction on-the-fly. I usually rap with it in low friction mode, but it is always comforting to know if I know I'll need more friction, I flip it 'up' and it's in high friction. I also like having the tube-style attachment if I ever want to go that route. I see it more as a swiss army knife of devices, with a plethora of rescue/self rescue options; it goes with me on every climbing trip for that very reason. Having said that, I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner. As mentioned before, KISS. For beginners, I hand them an ATC.

[shan1203]

I am still beginner-ish and I love the simplicity of the ATC. Why complicate things?

I love my GriGri for belaying, but I find it to be awkward as a rappel device.

[Eric Holden]

I love my GriGri for belaying, but I find it to be awkward as a rappel device.

I have rappelled on my GriGri before.... horrible experience. A grigri has its uses, mainly for top rope and for top belaying but for belaying a climber on lead, doable, but also not very fun.