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Thread: Forbidden Peak Traverse- East and West Ridges- July 7th 2012

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    Trail Master RAM's Avatar
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    Forbidden Peak Traverse- East and West Ridges- July 7th 2012

    We opted for a place where things would not fall on us. The trade off was hours
    of relentless exposure where not only must the leaders not fall, but neither
    could the followers. An injury here is an unimaginable horror. About 13
    pitches, up and over and down, of mostly mid 5th class, up to 5.8, sandwiched by
    a steep snow approach and a burly couloir descent meant 13 or 14 hours of "no
    mistake zone" living.

    We opted out of our normal east ledges descent, as unstable snow blocks would hang
    over our heads, on this route. Many are drawn to the west ridge ascent, popularized
    in the 50 classic climbs of North America. Many climb it in fine or reasonable
    style. Most struggle to get off this difficult peak. Canyoneering skill set has long
    helped us here. Short raps and years of downclimbing experience and we move fast
    where others bog down. The west ridge couloir descent route often provides drama
    in the evening, into the night.

    In the semi comfort of our snow bound camp, we watch group after group descent,
    first in fading light, then by headlamp, with the last groups dodging the
    crevasses and dealing the 50 degree snow all the way to 2:30 AM. We hike out the
    next day, with tired and satisfied gaits.
    Pictures?
    https://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14...stTraverse7712

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  3. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by RAM View Post
    We opted for a place where things would not fall on us. The trade off was hours
    of relentless exposure where not only must the leaders not fall, but neither
    could the followers. An injury here is an unimaginable horror. About 13
    pitches, up and over and down, of mostly mid 5th class, up to 5.8, sandwiched by
    a steep snow approach and a burly couloir descent meant 13 or 14 hours of "no
    mistake zone" living.

    We opted out of our normal east ledges descent, as unstable snow blocks would hang
    over our heads, on this route. Many are drawn to the west ridge ascent, popularized
    in the 50 classic climbs of North America. Many climb it in fine or reasonable
    style. Most struggle to get off this difficult peak. Canyoneering skill set has long
    helped us here. Short raps and years of downclimbing experience and we move fast
    where others bog down. The west ridge couloir descent route often provides drama
    in the evening, into the night.

    In the semi comfort of our snow bound camp, we watch group after group descent,
    first in fading light, then by headlamp, with the last groups dodging the
    crevasses and dealing the 50 degree snow all the way to 2:30 AM. We hike out the
    next day, with tired and satisfied gaits.
    Pictures?
    https://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14...stTraverse7712
    Stunning! Thanks

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