Blocked rappels

[Bootboy]

What techniques does everyone use to save their ropes from getting chewed up where they bend around your block? When its just me and my one friend, i often go double strand just to avoid this, particularly on short raps. I just get sick of pulling my blocked raps and seeing the rope all chewed up around my 8. How do you prevent this?

I've resorted to using a pop bottle with the bottom cut off the the rope threaded trough it so that the block sits in the bottle and is protected. I don't use this where there is any chance of getting the rope stuck. I did however use it on the first four raps in behinin - slabby. Often, if there is a chance of sticking the rope, I just go double strand anyway...

[Bootboy]

Obviously, the much talked about stein/stone is one alternative. But what else?

[ratagonia]

Biner Block?

T

[porcupinetracker]

:)

[ghawk]

I just use a biner block. haven't noticed any big wear issues on my ropes because of it. It sounded like you're rapping off of a blocked 8? maybe switch to a biner block and see if that helps, less weight = less friction on that point during a pull? I don't know, haven't had that problem myself. Maybe someone else can chime in with something more useful.

[canyoncaver]

I find the biner block does not chew up rope the way that 8 blocks do. On a clove hitch biner block there is not as much friction on the knot as there is on the turns of rope around the eight. I enjoy using the eight block for practical and safety reasons, but after it has done its job I replace it with a biner for the pull. The contingency 8 does no good for LAMAR anyway *(see caveat below), so I go ahead and replace it with a biner. This can even be done as soon as the rope length is set if you are fairly confident that you won't have to lower anyone. Due to previous rope damage, I don't pull the contingency eights down over edges anymore. I will replace it with a biner unless it is a completely clean pull.

*Tom may chime in and remind me that you can use a contingency eight from the bottom of the drop. While this is technically true, nobody really does this in practice. It would require that you unlock the eight and have someone hold tension on the pull line from the bottom during the rappel. This also requires a stronger anchor at the top, as it will see a 2:1 load.

[Iceaxe]

I'm still trying to figure out why canyoneers think they need to biner block the hell out of every rappel in the dry canyons of the Colorado Plateau. I normally just tread my rope through and go.... nothing is faster, nothing is more simple.... and I'll argue nothing is safer....

Now I use the other methods when I have a reason... say I'm on a long rap and using a pull cord…. Or I have beginners I'm worried about needing to lower…..

One of my biggest beefs/complaints is that a lot of folks take simple rigging and make it complicated…. There is a reason most the accidents and death's involve biner blocks on skinny single ropes….

I practice KISS - Keep it Simple Stupid.

I Fell 106 Feet. And Lived
http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15131

Heaps Accident
http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7204

Pine Creek Accident
http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13057

Englestead Accident
http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17627

Pine Creek: SAR in Zion
http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8285

All the accidents listed above were a result (at least partially) of complicating the rigging.... More parts.... more crap that can go wrong....

[canyoncaver]

Oh man, here we go again. While you're at it, how does everyone feel about bolts?

[deagol]

back to the original question RE: "I just get sick of pulling my blocked raps and seeing the rope all chewed up around my 8. How do you prevent this?"

Extending the anchor over the lip would lesson, if not eliminate, this problem- right?

[Bootboy]

Yes it would, but there are only so many situations in which extending the anchor is practical.

[Iceaxe]

back to the original question RE: "I just get sick of pulling my blocked raps and seeing the rope all chewed up around my 8. How do you prevent this?"

Sorry.... I'll just give you the short answer this time.... I seldom use a dumbass block so it's a non-issue to me.

[Bootboy]

Yeah, I pretty much go double strand 90% of the time. Alpine backround.

[flatiron]

Sorry.... I'll just give you the short answer this time.... I seldom use a dumbass block so it's a non-issue to me.

KISS

[SRG]

"nothing is faster"

The biner block has always been faster for me. I don't wanna bring along more rope than is needed, that being said if I'm in a canyon with variable rappel lengths I can do a 20 foot rappel with my 60m rope and only deal with 40 feet of rope.

I mean I guess you could set the rap length on one strand and then throw your bag to the bottom of the rap and then rappel two strands, I just don't wanna be throwing my rope and rope bag down every rappel, sounds like a sure way to destroy a potshot or ropebag.

[ratagonia]

... sounds like a sure way to destroy a potshot or ropebag.

What's wrong with that???

Tom

[Iceaxe]

I don't wanna bring along more rope than is needed.

Block or no block... the rappel takes the same amount of rope.... at least if you are doing it right...

FWIW: I've seen thousands of rope bags tossed off thousands of cliff and never seen one damaged from the throw. I'd be curious to know if Tom has seen any since this is his cup of tea.....

[ratagonia]

Block or no block... the rappel takes the same amount of rope.... at least if you are doing it right...

FWIW: I've seen thousands of rope bags tossed off thousands of cliff and never seen one damaged from the throw. I'd be curious to know if Tom has seen any since this is his cup of tea.....

Throwing a rope bag deploying the rope: not so hard on the ropebag because it is close to empty when it hits the ground.

Throwing a ropebag full of rope 100 feet to the bottom, just to send the rope down - hard on the ropebag. Which seems like a good idea to me, however, it sounds like a better idea to me once I have them back in stock... ... around September 15th.

Tom

[Brian in SLC]

I dunno...there's nothing so satisfying as tossing off the rope bucket (Imlay of course) and hearing that reassuring SMACK at the bottom of a rappel.

Then rappelling double strand, of course...ha ha.