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Thread: Climbing exit after rappelling from Morning Glory Arch

  1. #1

    Climbing exit after rappelling from Morning Glory Arch

    What I've found so far: Hike down Negro Bill Canyon Trail for about 0.3 mile. Look right and locate three low-angle fins that break through the vertical cliffs along the canyon edge. Climb the middle fin by scrambling up easy slabs and making some exposed moves (5.4 R) to the top of the fin. Not many places are found to place gear for protection. Use caution and belay novice climbers up. At the top, head left and hike to the top of the mesa above the canyon to a rough road, which leads to a good view of Morning Glory Bridge. Follow the road south until you can drop into the upper canyon you hiked down and follow it back south to your vehicle.

    That sounds pretty obvious, but looking at the topo map of the area, the "At the top, head left" doesn't make sense to me. If you're exiting the right side (LDC), that would be the Northeast side of the canyon, so to get back to your car, you'd need to go Southeast which would be right, not left.

    Does anybody have any pics or description of the climber's exit after rappelling off Morning Glory Arch?

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    Bottom Tier Superhero Iceaxe's Avatar
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    I believe the statement above should read "When hiking down from Morning Glory Arch", which is really a tributary of Negro Bill... and if that is the case the exit would be on your right and set you up for an exit heading in a southwest direction... at the top of the exit turn left would send you in the direction of the original trailhead...

    Now let me climb on top of my soapbox for a second because this is kind of a pet-peeve of mine.... This is why I HATE beta written in left/right or hike 10 minutes... left or right depends on the direction you are facing... and I can promise you that my 10 minutes down canyon is no where close to others 10 minute down canyon. It's much better to give a compass direction and a distance.


  4. #3
    Bottom Tier Superhero Iceaxe's Avatar
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    Or you can try this exit:

    If a car spot on the River Road is not convenient, take the first side canyon right (south) after the Morning Glory Arch rappel. Easy scrambling with a couple non-exposed 5.4 moves will get you back to the rim and the trail you used on your approach. Remember to stay on the slickrock whenever possible and avoid treading on the cryptobiotic soil.

    FYI: I haven't tried this exit.

  5. #4
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    Interesting, I'm still confused (possibly). This map I found to get to the Morning Glory Arch (and I verified this with google maps satellite image that shows the arch) shows that the canyon goes Northwest to connect to the Negro Bill Canyon.

    And, here is a link to a google map with the Arch marked and Iceaxe's possible exit canyon which has a Southeast heading.

    http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...03543,0.004823

    Is that the exit canyon you're referring to Iceaxe?

    Thanks for the help.

    P.S. I totally agree with you on the issues mentioned from your soapbox.

  6. #5
    These climbing exits are pretty serious undertakings. The middle 5.4 ramp is the easiest, but that "R" suffix should be an "X." If you fall off that ramp it's over, for sure. A belay on that ramp for followers is not very effective, either, since the geometry of that fin puts the belayer so far up that it sets the follower up for a huge pendulum down along the side of the fin. At that point they'd probably just wish they weren't on belay. The leftmost ramp/corner (just left of the 5.4X ramp) is the best for belaying followers, but it's 5.8X for the leader. The side canyon Shane references has, in my opinion, some exposure. You'd get messed up for sure if you fell from some of those ledges in the canyon. It's fine for followers, but the leader has got to be solid.

    These exits do eliminate the shuttle, but they're not to be taken lightly. They are hazardous. We see a lot of beginners in this canyon and these are not the kinda folks who are candidates for these exits. The only exception, in my mind, would be if you can belay folks up the left ramp/corner. This is assuming someone in your group is competent on slabby 5.8X sandstone and can solo and set up the belay. Keep in mind that this isn't a shortcut, either. The time it takes to safely climb your group out then hike back up to the car is no quicker than hiking out Negro Bill Canyon. Not to mention the hike from the rim to the carpark sucks as it's uphill with no shade. We occasionally use these exits, but only on cool days. On hot days I definitely prefer hiking along the creek!

    There is an exit out of Echo Canyon (right at its junction with Abyss Canyon) which is much safer and very enjoyable. This spits you out near the end of that long, western spur of Fins and Things. We used to use this alot, but it makes for a longer hike and there is no shade. It's a nice loop in cool weather.

  7. #6
    That red line does mark the side canyon I'm thinking of and I suspect that's the same one Shane is referencing. Your yellow line is not on the fin your thinking. The 5.4X fin is two fins south of your yellow line. There's a shorter fin (which is the 5.8X ramp/corner) just south of your yellow line which ends in a shaded area with a couple of trees (which are what you anchor to when belaying folks up). The next fin south of that is the 5.4X fin. Just south of that is another fin which is bisected by the shadow. This is the fin where your body would be recovered if you fell of the 5.4X ramp!

  8. #7
    Bogley BigShot moab mark's Avatar
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    When we do it we drive farther along the fins and things road to where a small spur goes left. We hike out to the edge and down a little ways. There is a hoodoo we place a rope around and drop it down the slick rock. After rappeling off of the arch we hike down canyon a short distance and scale the slick rock to where we dropped the rope. With the assistance of the rope we go right out. Haven't done it for years but we use to do it all the time.

    I just went and clicked on your map. Where we place the rope is close to your green line. If you look at the map close you can see where the jeep trail comes over to the fin. As I recall the fin we use to walk down is the one where the jeep trail would let you drive up onto the fin if you wanted to.

    Mark

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by moabmatt View Post
    There is an exit out of Echo Canyon (right at its junction with Abyss Canyon) which is much safer and very enjoyable. This spits you out near the end of that long, western spur of Fins and Things. We used to use this alot, but it makes for a longer hike and there is no shade. It's a nice loop in cool weather.
    Hmmm, this sounds interesting. Do you have any more info on it? I think I've found the Echo and Abyss Canyon junction and marked them on the map and I found at least part of the Fins and Things spur, but I don't see it getting very close to the canyons. Do you just exit heading East from the junction? Is it just a class 2/3/4 scramble?

    updated map: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...27673,0.036821

    Quote Originally Posted by moabmatt View Post
    That red line does mark the side canyon I'm thinking of and I suspect that's the same one Shane is referencing.
    I assume you meant green (not red).

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by moab mark View Post
    When we do it we drive farther along the fins and things road to where a small spur goes left. We hike out to the edge and down a little ways. There is a hoodoo we place a rope around and drop it down the slick rock. After rappeling off of the arch we hike down canyon a short distance and scale the slick rock to where we dropped the rope. With the assistance of the rope we go right out. Haven't done it for years but we use to do it all the time.

    I just went and clicked on your map. Where we place the rope is close to your green line. If you look at the map close you can see where the jeep trail comes over to the fin. As I recall the fin we use to walk down is the one where the jeep trail would let you drive up onto the fin if you wanted to.

    Mark
    I assume the rope is just a handline. How long a rope is needed?

    Thanks

  11. #10
    Bogley BigShot moab mark's Avatar
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    Seems like we were using a 200 ft.

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