Combating Abrasion

[Bootboy]

I was noticing that the floor on my favorite old Lowe pack was getting a tad fuzzy and it got thinking about what options might exist for prolonging the life of my stalwart pack. I've used mcnett seam grip in the past for small applications with good results, but to coat the bottom of a pack, leg loops of a harness, or the instep on a pair of ski pants, it's not very economical,considering the price of a tube of seam grip. I went to home depot and asked if they had any polyurethane based sealant/caulk that was flexible and clear. The guy pointed me toward this stuff. Looked promising. I took it home and stuffed my pack with news paper to hold its shape and proceeded to smear this stuff all over the bottom of my pack. A few days later and it's looking pretty bomb-proof. I'm doing some research to find out if the solvents it contains are harmful to polyester, nylon, and other common textiles. I'll report my findings. This is also a GREAT way to whip the ends of technora ropes. Or for any application where you'd like to add some wear life.

In short, if any of you are looking for just such a material, here it is. $7/ tube. For your rubberizing pleasure... Enjoy

[ratagonia]

Could we have a picture of the reinforced pack?

Tom

[MrAdam]

I have done this to the bottom of my REI pinnacle pack, but used a marine sealant. It will start wear and peel in spots after a canyon or two, so I have to reapply it every month or so. It has worked well for me in the Arizona canyons, not sure how well it will hold up in the gear wrecking sandstone canyons of Utah!

[Bootboy]

It takes a full week to cure. It's dry to touch after a few hours. I'm not sure how it will hold up but I'm optimistic.

Tom, as a matter of technical trivia, the solvents are xylene and ethylbenzene. I couldn't find any information about how these 2 aromatics interact with polymers or aramids etc...

[Slot Machine]

... the solvents are xylene and ethylbenzene...

Seems like a lot of messy mind altering work IMO...at least if done in a poorly vetilated area.

My solution for holes or tears: Gorilla tape the inside and the outside of the pack and it's good as new. I always carry a small roll in my pack. Gorilla is much tougher than duct tape.

Heck, you could cover the bottom of your pack with a layer of Gorilla tape in 5 minutes...

[Bootboy]

It wasn't too bad. I used some nitrile gloves and worked outside. Next time though, it'd be nice to have something rigid in the pack and use a plastic scraper to spread the sealant. It would be much more uniform.

[Slot Machine]

It wasn't too bad. I used some nitrile gloves and worked outside. Next time though, it'd be nice to have something rigid in the pack and use a plastic scraper to spread the sealant. It would be much more uniform.

Well, it looks pretty tough. I wonder how long it will last.

Be sure to post your results.

Bob

[eldofool]

Try Performix PLASTI DIP. This is a rubber coating product intended for tool handles, rope ends, etc. Get the paint-on stuff, not the spray. One 14.5 oz. can costs about $10 and will coat numerous canyon items, like pack bottoms, wear spots on rope silos, camera cases, knee pads, neo shorts, wetsuits- you name it. I use it to patch all wear spots on my canyon gear, and to reinforce seams and wear points on brand-new stuff. It is flexible, doesn't crack, doesn't come off, doesn't leave marks on canyon walls, and comes in several colors including black, red, blue, yellow. Easy to apply with a paint brush, dries quick. This stuff is amazing.

[eldofool]

Here's a pic:

[Slot Machine]

Bootboy,

Speaking of field testing, how did your reinforced pack experiment work out?

[ratagonia]

Here's a pic:

Plastidip seems like it is not very tough. as in, not rugged, not resistant to abrasion. Is this radically different than regular plastidip?

Tom

[Bootboy]

Plasti dip is a vinyl compound and is pretty buttery compared to a good urethane like seam grip or the 3m 730 or 230 stuff ( hard to find). The dap stuff I used so far is an acrylic PU blend. It's holding up very well but still won't touch the pure PU. If you get your hands on the 100% PU, do it in an open garage. If done in your basement you may not remember much the next day, like why everything is stuck to everything else, including your fingers...

[Bootboy]

Bootboy,

Speaking of field testing, how did your reinforced pack experiment work out?

I'm very pleased so far. I took it through 3 canyons a few weeks ago and did a lot of but sliding and down climbing, all the while dragging my pack bottom. The only thing I would do differently is thin it slightly before application to ensure better penetration and adhesion to the fabric. Other than that, it's $7 that has given my stalwart pack a second life.

I still need to procure some 100% PU though, it will knock this blend stuff out of the park.

[eldofool]

I've used plastidip on packs, neo camera case, neo knee pads, patching wetsuits, knuckles on gloves, and it has worked very well for me. I have not had any problems with durability. It's easy to apply, too.

[hank moon]

Try Performix PLASTI DIP.

I've tried PLASTI-DIP several times on shoes and packs and peeling started on the first outing each time.

[canyondevil]

I have had really good luck with Plasti-dip. My Leprechaun is pretty much coverd in it. I havent had any peeling at all, and it seems to be holding up to the constant dragging across sandstone. The only thing I see when I inspect it is wear on the untreated fabric next to the Plasti-dip. Worked great on my wetsuit as well. I think one key to good success is to apply many thin coats versus one big blob. Haven't tried it on shoes, I still use ShoeGoo for that.