Morning Glory Arch Simul-rap

[ilipichicuma]

So some friends and I are going to hit Medieval Chamber this Monday and wanted to finish it off by doing the simul-rap from Morning Glory Arch. We are all experienced, and a couple of us have done a lot of canyoneering. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has any tips for pulling this off. I know the lengths of rope we need, and I read a while ago that we should make sure and lower our ropes rather than dropping them so as to keep from hitting anyone with them, but is there any other advice? Thanks!

[ratagonia]

There's poison ivy at the base, lots of it. Not sure it is very virulent.

Don't pull the rope over the arch. Takes 3X rappel length, but certainly possible to do the simulrap (or ground-anchored rap over the arch) and retrieve the ropes and not pull a rope over the arch (thus avoiding the creation/enlargement of grooves).

Left as an exercise to the student...

Tom

[jman]

We were there 3 weeks ago and the poison ivy is there, but is completely avoidable.
While our group didn't do the simul, a group (a small youth group) before us did it and we gave them advice on how to do it.

Basic advice would be start on both of your butts and inch your way down for this specific simul-rap. You want to keep your center of gravity low. In comparison, Corona Arch and the 8th or 9th rap in Behunin, can be done while standing and walking over the edge.

Also, the west-side (or left-side LDC) rappeller should go down first as the east-side (or right-side LDC) has more wall to rap down before the free-hang.

[penmartens]

Also, first one down should make sure they do NOT unweight the rope before their partner is down.

[ratagonia]

We were there 3 weeks ago and the poison ivy is there, but is completely avoidable.
While our group didn't do the simul, a group (a small youth group) before us did it and we gave them advice on how to do it.

Basic advice would be start on both of your butts and inch your way down for this specific simul-rap. You want to keep your center of gravity low. In comparison, Corona Arch and the 8th or 9th rap in Behunin, can be done while standing and walking over the edge.

Also, the west-side (or left-side LDC) rappeller should go down first as the east-side (or right-side LDC) has more wall to rap down before the free-hang.

The main inobvious advice for the simul-rap from me would be to STAND on the rope at center, to keep it from shifting.

Tom

[ilipichicuma]

All great advice. Thanks everyone!

[moab mark]

Once two are on the ground we have them clip into the ends of each rope just in case.

[moab mark]

All great advice. Thanks everyone!

Did you figure out Tom's excercise yet on how to get the ropes down without pulling them over the arch?

[Iceaxe]

Once two are on the ground we have them clip into the ends of each rope just in case.

We have one guy clip into the bottom of both lines... just in case.

Just a different way to skin the same ol' cat.

[Sandstone Addiction]

Did you figure out Tom's excercise yet on how to get the ropes down without pulling them over the arch?

I'm interested in knowing how and ready for school.

[taatmk]

We were last November 2011 and did this rap with a group of 5.

First simul rappers went off by inching their way on their behinds; had two others stand on the rope at the center point.

After the first two got down, their provided a bottom belay to the second simul rappers, until they were off and running.

We say the poison ivy, but it was easily avoidable. Hike out is gorgeous.

[Iceaxe]

Left as an exercise to the student...

One method...

[rrv]

Also, the west-side (or left-side LDC) rappeller should go down first as the east-side (or right-side LDC) has more wall to rap down before the free-hang.

That seems backward to me. Don't you want both rappellers to get to the free-hang at the same time? Which would mean that the one who has further to go to get to the free-hang should go faster (don't want to say first since they both should be going at the same time).

Am I missing something?

[ilipichicuma]

One method...

Nice. I definitely didn't think of that. However, we'll have five people in our group, so I figured I'd just go last (as I weigh like twice as much as everyone else) and just pull up the ropes and then rap from the tree.

[moab mark]

Just have them meat anchor it from the ground.

[moabmatt]

On trips with only one guide we always have one client - a very responsible client - first rap solo off of either a cam placed in a crack by the main anchor tree or from a large boulder set back a bit from the main anchor tree. We'll typically run the rope out across the arch so that, even though solo, they get the experience of rappelling off the arch. They are belayed from above. Once they're down we rig the simul-rap. The client at the bottom clips into overhand knots on both ropes where they touch the ground (with a bit of slack so they can move around if need be and so that rappellers can rig). This bottom client provides a bottom belay for the first set of simul-rappers. We have the simul-rappers scoot off on their hips which makes them much more stable and less likely to be pulled around by their partner. This is huge and is perhaps the most important trick here. Even for the downcanyon rappeller who has a nice lower-angled wall which tempts them to stand up - resist this urge and stay on your hip! It makes the impending transition to free-hanging so much easier. Sitting starts are the bomb! Not only here but in many, many other awkward rappelling situations in which canyoneers frequently find themselves. Once the first simul-rappers are down the bottom belayer can delegate one of them to watch over one of the ropes.

Use the 3X rope setup for retrieval only. We rig the simul rap with just two ropes tied together and the third rope is kept up top for rescue. Only the last set of simul-rappers uses the 3X rig. Place the rapide as close as you feel comfortable to the upcanyon side. Once down, if the rapide is not visible from below pull on both strands that are running through the rapide a bit till the rapide becomes visible. Now pull the ropes through the rapide. You want that rapide visible and on the upcanyon side of the arch so that the pull does not put any grooves in the arch. Once the ropes come through the rapide it only takes a slight tug on the downcanyon rope to bring it down. Careful, it's got some metal on it!

[ratagonia]

On trips with only one guide we always have one client - a very responsible client - first rap solo off of either a cam placed in a crack by the main anchor tree or from a large boulder set back a bit from the main anchor tree. We'll typically run the rope out across the arch so that, even though solo, they get the experience of rappelling off the arch. They are belayed from above. Once they're down we rig the simul-rap. The client at the bottom clips into overhand knots on both ropes where they touch the ground (with a bit of slack so they can move around if need be and so that rappellers can rig). This bottom client provides a bottom belay for the first set of simul-rappers. We have the simul-rappers scoot off on their hips which makes them much more stable and less likely to be pulled around by their partner. This is huge and is perhaps the most important trick here. Even for the downcanyon rappeller who has a nice lower-angled wall which tempts them to stand up - resist this urge and stay on your hip! It makes the impending transition to free-hanging so much easier. Sitting starts are the bomb! Not only here but in many, many other awkward rappelling situations in which canyoneers frequently find themselves. Once the first simul-rappers are down the bottom belayer can delegate one of them to watch over one of the ropes.

Use the 3X rope setup for retrieval only. We rig the simul rap with just two ropes tied together and the third rope is kept up top for rescue. Only the last set of simul-rappers uses the 3X rig. Place the rapide as close as you feel comfortable to the upcanyon side. Once down, if the rapide is not visible from below pull on both strands that are running through the rapide a bit till the rapide becomes visible. Now pull the ropes through the rapide. You want that rapide visible and on the upcanyon side of the arch so that the pull does not put any grooves in the arch. Once the ropes come through the rapide it only takes a slight tug on the downcanyon rope to bring it down. Careful, it's got some metal on it!

Good post, thanks Matt!

Tom