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Thread: Newb to mountaineering, where to start in the Wasatch?

  1. #1

    Newb to mountaineering, where to start in the Wasatch?

    Let me start off by saying a few things. I'm already comfortable and familiar with the backcountry around the Wasatch in the winter, I've done a lot of snowshoeing and a fair amount of backcountry snowboarding. I'm American Avalanche Association level 1 certified, and will be getting level 2 this season. I'm a avid rock climber and canyoneer, so I'm familiar with rope use and safety. However, I have never ice climbed nor do I have ice climbing tools beyond regular mountaineering tools.

    I have an ice axe, crampons, beacon, probe, shovel, and a handful of other avalanche safety/backcountry gear. I've read over 5 books on mountaineering and mountaineering first-aid, so I'm familiar with the required equipment and safety.

    Now that my "credentials" are out of the way, I'm curious about some good places to start mountaineering around the Wasatch. I'm not seeking anything specific although I am a peak bagger during the summer so that'd be nice. Ultimately, I just want to get outside and do some mountaineering but want to ensure I don't get in over my head early on.

    Thanks in advance, and if anyone is willing to go out with a motivated newb, I'd love to apprentice someone and am willing to be the pack mule. :) Also, if there's any advice you feel pertinent to passing on I'd love to hear it.

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  3. #2
    there used to be a good group of folks on summitpost who were active in the wasatch in the winter. i've never met them, but they are/were pretty active, looking for new partners. most of their activity is on facebook now.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/utahoutsiders/

  4. #3
    About 20 years ago when I was sharing my thoughts of wanting to do some alpine climbing my climbing partners (I now know were my climbing mentors) shared this with me. "Wait until a good storm in your own backyard that is rain/sleet on the verge of snow. Go into that storm and hike/stand until you are thoroughly soaked. Then go find the sheltered side of the house, or under a tree and crawl into your bivy sack / or what you are willing to hump up the hill (if you have a tent then no shelter from the elements, pick the worst spot in your yard). In the morning, if you liked it alpine climbing MIGHT be for you." There aren't many objective hazards in your backyard but it can get cold. Think of your backyard as the Alpine 101 weed out class. What organic chemistry is to a pharmacist or thermodynamics is to an engineer.

    The provided facebook link is a good one. Have fun, be safe, and get down.
    It's your fault, you shouldn't have been there!

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by CarpeyBiggs View Post
    there used to be a good group of folks on summitpost who were active in the wasatch in the winter. i've never met them, but they are/were pretty active, looking for new partners. most of their activity is on facebook now.

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/utahoutsiders/
    Great link, I joined up and have a couple conversations going. Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Gambel Oak View Post
    About 20 years ago when I was sharing my thoughts of wanting to do some alpine climbing my climbing partners (I now know were my climbing mentors) shared this with me. "Wait until a good storm in your own backyard that is rain/sleet on the verge of snow. Go into that storm and hike/stand until you are thoroughly soaked. Then go find the sheltered side of the house, or under a tree and crawl into your bivy sack / or what you are willing to hump up the hill (if you have a tent then no shelter from the elements, pick the worst spot in your yard). In the morning, if you liked it alpine climbing MIGHT be for you." There aren't many objective hazards in your backyard but it can get cold. Think of your backyard as the Alpine 101 weed out class. What organic chemistry is to a pharmacist or thermodynamics is to an engineer.

    The provided facebook link is a good one. Have fun, be safe, and get down.
    Haha, funny but there's a lot of truth to that for sure. I'm not new to being in horrible, frigid conditions. I've done my fair share of early/late season backpacking, waking up to unexpected snow and everything frozen. I did a night backpacking in the snow (with snowshoes) doing an overnighter and loved it. I'm planning to spend at least 10 nights in the backcountry this season. I've spent a LOT of time researching and considering if this is something I really want to do, and every thing definitely points to yes. Some of my hardest and roughest times were my best and most memorable trips, and I wouldn't take them back for anything.

    Thanks again for the suggestions

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