A Long Day in Zion National Park - Mostly Uphill

[hikemasterpa]

June 5, 2008
Jim and I had been in Utah for the last few days, coming from great days of hiking in Arches and Bryce National Parks. Our target for the day was Observation Point, a strenuous but invigorating 8 mile rountrip hike. 3 of the 4 miles to Observation Point are a steady uphill climb. A great workout in my opinion, one that makes you feel great to be alive. We had done this same hike 16 years earlier, almost to the day, during our first visit together to Zion. We had a fantastic day back then, and anticipated the same again.
One of the most enjoyable things we encounter on our hikes are the people we meet. It seems every hike we take we meet someone who becomes a permanent part of our conversation and reminiscence about that hike for years to come. In fact, as we started off today, Jim remarked that you always seem to run into the nicest people on this particular hike. This day would turn out to be no different.
So, off we go, with a reasonably early start, grabbing the shuttle from Springdale and on the trail shortly before 9AM. Not many people on the trail ahead of us and the climb begins, up, up and up some more. We come to the junction for Hidden Canyon and this brings back quite a memory from 16 years ago. Seems the night before we arrived in Zion back then, there was a big hail storm, and the next day we found mounds of hail stones in the shady parts of the trail. In early June. Quite refreshing at the time, as the stones provided a cool drink on the 95 degree day. This day we press on with no such relief, though it is not particularly warm at this time of the morning.
After a while longer we come to Jim's favorite spot, an outcropping of rock that hangs suspended over the depths below, with a wonderful view of the canyon. 16 years ago Jim had gone ahead on the way down from Observation Point, and we found him lounging on this same spot when we came around the bend.

We move on. The views of the inner Zion canyon are spectacular.

Soon those views will be left behind as the trail wraps around the back side. The climb continues a while longer until we reach a plateau. From here it's about a mile of mostly level walking until we reach our goal - Observation Point! You never know if you'll ever make it back to any of these places, so when you do, it's like reuniting with an old friend. It's great to be back!!
Time for a break, to take in the incredible views, to relax, refuel. Inevitably, we make new friends, Bryan and his wonderful family from New Orleans who are in the midst of a 2 week vacation all over the great western United States. What an outstanding thing to do! We spend the better part of an hour at the point. Did I mention the view? All the way up canyon to the junction and beyond.

Now back down, most of the way spent getting to know our new friends. They will forever be part of our memories and conversations.




We stop for a few pictures. I personally don't like the long, steep downhills, prefer to climb, find it much easier on the legs and knees, as well as the fitness benefits. Ah, but once again, the scenery takes away all misery!



We reach the bottom and hop on the shuttle. It feels good to sit and rest. We still have several hours of daylight left and begin discussing our options over lunch at the Zion Lodge. We decide we're going to do Angels' Landing. We try to entice Bryan to come along, but he looks too comfortable sprawled in his chair. He says we're too hard core for him, plus he's doing the Narrows tomorrow.
Jim and I hop back on the shuttle to the Grotto and we're at the trailhead in no time. 2 and a half miles up we need to go. We feel good at the start, and the weather is perfect. Last night it got down into the 40's and only hit the mid 70's today, quite cool for this time of year. We're the only one's headed up, and in fact don't see many people coming down. We have about 2 hours of daylight left and are thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Thru Walter's Wiggles, which really is a beautiful, if exhausting, part of the trail and then to Scouts Lookout. Now the fun begins, 45 minutes of steep, exposed climbing.




Allow me to describe this climb. This is my fourth time. Did it in 1992 with Jim and 1993 with another group. In 92, pre internet, pre trip reports and tons of pictures, we had no idea what was to come. We were happily moving along until we started this last section, when, as Jim described it, "all conversations stopped." I believe the comment at the time was "Hey, this is some serious stuff, we better pay attention." Of course, today there is so much information available that anyone should have some idea of what they're getting into. However, that day in 1992, it was all new to us, and we had just started up the knife edge when we came across a young lady sitting on a rock. I was in the lead and said hello and she just started crying. She was terrified, could not move. Her group had gone ahead to the top and left her alone. She made a good decision to not go further, but now needed some help getting back to a safer spot. So we took her by the hand and led her to safety. Jim keenly put her at ease by telling her "Don't worry, we're just going to remove your belongings and dispose of your body!" Luckily, she laughed. We moved on and made it to the top. Having never done anything like this climb before, we recognized afterwards it was exposed, but it seemed like no big deal.
In 1993 I was happy to lead some other friends up, eager to show them how cool it was. And it was, and still is. But 15 years later, in 2007, as I was on my third ascent, it really struck me how dangerous this could be. Probably just a factor of youth gone by, more to lose now, facing one's mortality. It is steep and exposed and somewhat nerve racking and demanding of full concentration, and ... BUT, it also makes you feel SOOOO ALIVE! I find myself stopping several times to think what a place I'm in, somewhere I'd never imagine being, a place I am thrilled to be!
And, now today, the fourth time. As I am climbing I'm really starting to feel the fatigue in my legs from the day's activity, and some doubt goes thru my mind. Should I stop and call it a day? Am I in any extra danger? Am I making a bad decision to continue? After all, summitting is always optional, returning is not. Oh well, on I go and make it up without incident. It's pretty cool to be the last people on top for the day - wait, here comes another hiker. Damn. Well, at least we now have a photographer. We hang for a few minutes and then start down. Coming down probably is scarier for a lot of people because you kind of have the long drop offs on either side of you in view. But I've never had a problem with this part, and the views to the canyon floor are awesome! After we get off the knife edge, the rest is easy.
Back on the shuttle and then off at the visitors center. We make some kind of remark about our Angel's Landing hike and someone over hears. He says he did that hike today and what a great hike, and that he's doing Observation Point tomorrow. We casually mention we did both today. He says "Wow, you guys are hard core!" I guess we are.

[Felicia]

That was a big day - good for you guys!

[Cirrus2000]

Nice report! That is a big day - well done. Thanks for sharing!

[Sombeech]

Nice shots

[maarten.1975]

Wow, both trips on 1 day sounds quite intense.
But it must have been awesome as well!

Which of the 2 hikes would you advice for me to do with my parents?
They are 65 and 66 years old, still healthy and in for a nice hike.
(I'd prefer Observation point since I've already done Angels Landing Point.)
I'll be there in a couple of weeks, and I still haven't decided which one to hike with them.

Thanks, grtz

[Deathcricket]

Cool TR! You have a good way of describing things and it was very enjoyable to read. What you said about meeting interesting people is so true on that hike. Every time I go, I have the same experience! For instance, last time I went we met this hippie chick with super long hair, wearing no shoes, and blazing up the trails. We asked here where she was from and she said "all over I live in my car and travel where I please". I probed her more on this because she clearly was not a homeless type and turns out she was a silicon valley exec, made a lot of money, and then retired at 25. but just wanted to bum around and see the planet. It was person I shall never forget.

[Deathcricket]

Wow, both trips on 1 day sounds quite intense.
But it must have been awesome as well!

Which of the 2 hikes would you advice for me to do with my parents?
They are 65 and 66 years old, still healthy and in for a nice hike.
(I'd prefer Observation point since I've already done Angels Landing Point.)
I'll be there in a couple of weeks, and I still haven't decided which one to hike with them.

Thanks, grtz

It's kinda like "do you like vanilla or chocolate ice cream" kinda question, hehe. They are both amazing hikes. They are both well worth it. The only thing I guess that would influence the decision is "are they scared of heights" because hikemastapa is not kidding, angels is very exposed. you are literally on a 3 foot ledge with a 1000 foot drop on both sides. But if you are not paralyzed by fear it is amazing and something you will not easily forget. Observation is a longer hike and way higher up. but you can stay well back from the ledge, so it tends to keep off the fear, if you have it.

[hikemasterpa]

Maarten,

Wow, tough question! They're both great obviously. I'd recommend Observation Point only because it will make for a longer day - longer in the sense that you may feel like you've done more. Physically, I think Angel's Landing is a little tougher. Walter's Wiggles and the last part to the top of Angel's landing are leg burners.

[erial]

Balance/vertigo issues can arise in older folks so I'd recommend observation point over angels landing. Even if they just get to the narrows section, would be a worthwhile hike.

[maarten.1975]

Thanks for the feedback concerning my question.
I think I'll go for Observation point trail.
It has a higher elevation gain, however less narrow passages.
(and I haven't done Observation point, thus it is new for me as well.)

Grtz

[Felicia]

Nice!

[accadacca]

Excellent photos and writing!