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Thread: Favorite Wasatch Elevener?

  1. #1

    Favorite Wasatch Elevener?

    Do any of you out there have a favorite 11er in the Wasatch? I'm hoping to hike one of them later this week, preferably with some good class 3 scrambling.

    I was thinking of the traverse between the Thunder mountains, Pfiefferhorn, or any of the three accessible from the Broads Fk TH, but I'm open to suggestions.

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  3. #2
    Lone Peak is a favorite of mine, probably because I can hike it out my back door.
    http://climb-utah.com/WM/lonepeak.htm
    The summit ridge is an airy scramble.


    If you want a fun scramble try the Devil's Castle Traverse.
    http://climb-utah.com/WM/devilscastle.htm


    Probably the best scramble in the Wasatch is the South Ridge of Superior
    http://climb-utah.com/WM/superior.htm


    Enjoy

  4. #3
    Mt. Nebo, Broads Fork Twins, American Fork Twins, Pfeifferhorn

    Not really scrambling on any of these, by they are my favorite ones by far in the range. Devils Castle has some serious exposure on it. As mentioned above, there is a reason it is called Cardiac Ridge on Superior.

    Dromedary Peak would probably be the gnarliest of any in the Wasatch. I have only seen someone do it in the winter. It is pretty gnarly without the snow bridge. http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=5457

  5. #4
    Any idea if most of the 11k+ Wasatch peaks are summit-able without mountaineering tools (axe, crampons, etc)? I've been too busy canyoneering this year to bag many peaks so I'm not familiar with the condition of the Wasatch melt off...

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Nebz View Post
    Devils Castle has some serious exposure on it.
    But after you fall the first 50' does it really matter how high you actually started?




    FWIW: The exposure on the summit ridge of Lone Peak is equal to Devils Castle, certianly not a place for anyone afraid of heights.

  7. #6
    timpanogos is the prettiest, imo. but there's no scrambling. lone peak is awesome. pfeifferhorn is cool too, but not much scrambling there either.

    if you are feeling saucy, the beatout is probably the best scrambling/peak bagging trip in the wasatch.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe View Post
    But after you fall the first 50' does it really matter how high you actually started?




    FWIW: The exposure on the summit ridge of Lone Peak is equal to Devils Castle, certianly not a place for anyone afraid of heights.
    Yeah, I guess a fall is a fall, so I agree with you on that for sure. You are gonna hurt no matter what.


    Oh yeah, Lone Peak is scary, seriously. The true summit is awesome, but really gets your blood going. I do pretty good with heights, but that one for sure had me on my guard the whole time. One slip and you are done for sure.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by CarpeyBiggs View Post
    timpanogos is the prettiest, imo. but there's no scrambling. lone peak is awesome. pfeifferhorn is cool too, but not much scrambling there either.

    if you are feeling saucy, the beatout is probably the best scrambling/peak bagging trip in the wasatch.
    I have yet to hit Timp, I would love to do an over nighter up there, summit and head out the next day.

    The beatout is gnarly, best to have good weather attempting that one. Some serious exposure in certain parts as well up there.

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Nebz View Post
    I have yet to hit Timp,
    Timpanogos is one of the prettiest hikes around, the next couple weeks might be awesome as the wild flowers should be out. I prefer hiking it from the Timpooneke trailhead. I think its the more scenic route. It's also in the shade longer into the morning which is nice on a hot day. If you are looking for a scramble Timp is not the place. There is a nice big trail all the way to the summit. You also have to watch when you visit. I've seen over 100 people lounging on the summit and the trail packed like I-15 at rush hour.

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Nebz View Post
    Oh yeah, Lone Peak is scary, seriously. The true summit is awesome, but really gets your blood going.
    A couple years ago we summited Lone Peak in winter (end of February), The summit ridge scared the snot out of me as it was lined with massive cornices. They were by far the biggest cornices I've ever dealt with and to top it off the ridge and summit were in a thick cloud that day so you could only see about 50' in any direction.... It was scary, but fun....

  12. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Iceaxe View Post
    Timpanogos is one of the prettiest hikes around, the next couple weeks might be awesome as the wild flowers should be out. I prefer hiking it from the Timpooneke trailhead. I think its the more scenic route. It's also in the shade longer into the morning which is nice on a hot day. If you are looking for a scramble Timp is not the place. There is a nice big trail all the way to the summit. You also have to watch when you visit. I've seen over 100 people lounging on the summit and the trail packed like I-15 at rush hour.
    Meh, I have done enough scrambling in my day, it is fun, but not always something I want to deal with. I saw some report of someone camping at a lake up there and then hitting the summit the next day, looked dreamy for sure. I think that report was on here? There were a ton of mountain goats, might have been a trip report from Summit? Really made me want to go up there. I will have to see about this year. Might have to wait until next year, I've got a lot to squeeze in before the snow flys.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Nebz View Post
    I have yet to hit Timp, I would love to do an over nighter up there, summit and head out the next day.

    The beatout is gnarly, best to have good weather attempting that one. Some serious exposure in certain parts as well up there.
    Makes me recall a moment where a buddy of mine did "the worm" around an outcrop along the ridge line. Turns out he wasn't as good with exposure as he though he was!

    The beatout is one of my favorites, but it has taken me a few years to finally say, "yeah, I'm ready to go do that again." Great exposure, good scrambling, and a long day. Beats you up for sure!

    As for other hikes, I love B.F. Twins and Timp. I have done Dromedary in the summer...definitely need to be good with exposure. I had a scary moment with some loose boulders up there . I have been trying to do the ridge run heading up Broads Fork, summitting B.F. Twin Peaks, the across Satellite, Sunrise, Dromedary, down into Lake Blanche, and out. There is some good scrambling and exposure up there. My two attempts have been thwarted once by time and the second time by 50 mph winds perpendicular to the ridge line . Back in shape to try again. Look for a TR in the coming weeks

  14. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Nebz View Post
    Meh, I have done enough scrambling in my day, it is fun, but not always something I want to deal with. I saw some report of someone camping at a lake up there and then hitting the summit the next day, looked dreamy for sure. I think that report was on here? There were a ton of mountain goats, might have been a trip report from Summit? Really made me want to go up there. I will have to see about this year. Might have to wait until next year, I've got a lot to squeeze in before the snow flys.
    That wasn't me that posted that TR, but sounds about identical to my trip last summer:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/optikal801/MtTimpanogos

  15. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by optikal View Post
    That wasn't me that posted that TR, but sounds about identical to my trip last summer:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/optikal801/MtTimpanogos
    Yup, that looks like the place. Your dog is awesome! Looks like you and the Flor had a great time.

    Awe damn, Jeremy is in the house. Damn dude, I did not know that was you. Best riding partner ever just to let everyone know. We are doing an small trip to the Uintas for my B-Day this weekend. Would be sweet if you came. Call me soon man!

  16. #15
    Devil's Castle is one of my fav's. Snow is low and soft enough that folks are doing the climbing routes on the North Face now. Done most of those (including a couple of new ones). Neat. That traverse is great.

  17. #16
    Thanks for the input guys, I'm pretty comfortable with scrambling and exposure (I've climbed more than half of the 14ers in CO), but I'm going with a buddy of mine who is fairly unproven so I might end up going with something a little more tame than the beatout or lone peak. Also, I'm kind of looking to get a feel for the Wasatch as a I recently moved here.

    The beatout looks awesome though, I might try and recruit a partner for it in September!

  18. #17
    I ended up going with the Broads Twins, ascending the North Ridge and descending the standard route on the Southeast Ridge. The North Ridge was cool, much better scrambling than the standard route. I'll post a TR soon.

  19. #18
    Guess I'm too late, but....

    timpanogos is the prettiest, imo. but there's no scrambling
    If you are looking for a scramble Timp is not the place.
    Actually Timp has some of the best scrambles in the Wasatch.

    You guys need to try the Razorback Ridge:


    http://www.summitpost.org/razorback-...-summit/164974

    It visits the best of the "goodies" on the main Timp routes (waterfalls, Hidden lakes, Emerald Lake and even a slide down the snowfield), but thas some great scrambling, much more excitment and IMHO the scenery is even better since you get the views of the impressive Cascade Cirque. The Second Summit is a few feet lower than the Main Summit, but you can always make a run at the Main Summit from the Glacier Saddle if you so desire.

    A word of warning though, unless it's a dry year I would always take an ice axe on this route for the traverse. It's not hard, but if it has snow on it (and it's a sure bet that it does this year) you wouldn't want to slip on the snow.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Lone Peak is a good and scenic one up high, but the lower 2/3 of the mountain are pretty ordinary (unless you go up Bells Canyon). Timp is scenic top to bottom. North Timp is a good one. Dromedary, Sunrise and Twins are some of the most scenic in the Wasatch, but I'd take an ice axe. From an asthetic standpoint, I find the north side of Superior/Monte Cristo from Lake Blanche to be quite a bit more scenic than the Alta side, though both sides are still nice. North Thunder is probably the toughest 11er in the Wasatch (but I've only climbed it from Coalpits) and probably the least visited as well through the peak east of Provo Peak isn't visited often either (it's not quite as scenic as the other ones mentioned). Pfeifferhorn from Maybird is really scenic (even more so than from Red Pine), but after the snow melts, upper Maybird Gulch isn't so pleasant. Late may or June is usually better for that route.
    Utah is a very special and unique place. There is no where else like it on earth. Please take care of it and keep the remaining wild areas in pristine condition. The world will be a better place if you do.

  20. #19
    I have a question about the area surrounding lakes blanche, Florence, & Lillian. I have only been up there in winter and only to the lakes so I do not have the best idea of the terrain from the lakes to the ridge and peaks beyond. I looked at the topos and access to some of the surrounding peaks seems quite possible. Has anyone accessed any of the peaks in the area via the lakes?

    It looks like Superior is accessible via scramble from the east up the eastern most col at 40'35.608 N, 111'40.095 W. has anyone done that route?

    Is O'Sullivan and/or Dromedary accessible via the ridge straight south from the lakes at 40'35.414N, 111'41.342 W.

    could you connect the 3 Lakes basin to the Twin Peaks trail and make it a loop?

    any help is greatly appreceated.

  21. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott P View Post
    You guys need to try the Razorback Ridge:
    Exactly what I was going to suggest. Also, I've heard the Everest Ridge is doable during the summer. I would say go at night though, you don't want to be stuck on the west face in the heat of the day.

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