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Thread: 1x10 questions

  1. #1

    1x10 questions

    So I'm pretty sure I want to convert to a 1x10. I've done all of the math and with a 28 tooth front ring and an 11-36 cassette in the back I can get nearly all of the ratios I currently use. I lose a few high end gears and 1 granny of all granny gears but I've been carefully evaluating what I really use when riding and I'm sold. The main goal it to be lighter and simpler.

    I want to replace my current cranks which are Suntour Octalink with a lighter 2x10 crank that I can repalce the outer ring with a bashguard and then use either a N-gear jump stop or a Paul chain keeper on the inside. I'm not too keen on the E13 stuff, it seems too clunky and looks like the chain does a lot of rubbing. I'm open to suggestion on how to best handle the 1x10 conversion. I was looking at the Widgit and it's pretty slick but I'm not sure I could get a bashguard to fit up plus its a bit spendy. I can get a new crank, bashguard, and 28 tooth sprocket for that price. Thoughts?

    One of the questions I have is the bottom bracket. My current bike uses a Shimano Octalink Spline 68x118. Do I have to buy an octalink crank? OR can I buy something like a 2x10 X9 crank that uses the GPX BB and replace my current BB with the GPX? It seems that most of the new cranks use an external bottom bracket system. It looks like all it will do is push my chain line out a bit. Any ideas or suggestions?

    I'm not too sure on the cranks but I like the truvativ stylo and the X9 stuff. Both are way lighter than my current crank system. I do see the Deore cranks are pretty cheap as well. Would they use the octalink?


    What are your guys's thoughts?

    http://www.widgit.com.au/product-single-chainring.html
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

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  3. #2
    I can add a couple of things as I have been on 1x9 for some years now.

    1. ngear is great but sucks. its great, light and works most of the time. the problem is no matter what I do, I still get chain problems where it drops between the chain ring and the frame. the concept is good but the product moves. I have a bashguard on the outside so there's is no problem on the outer edge dropping

    2. if you have never had a 1x? word of experience here. if in need of a quick shift from something small to something tall its not as fast as lets say a triple or even double chain ring as you can shift the front.

    3. 1x9 is a great medium. i was on a ss but knee problems started occurring.

    4. have you looked at the third eye? it might be a bit better.

    thanks for the link to the widget. too bad they dont make a 36 tooth.

  4. #3

  5. #4
    Is this a road bike or a mountain bike? I could see this working on a road bike, but not a mountain bike where you need to shift fast. What is the weight difference? Why is it simpler? Clicking a single lever 7 times instead of clicking one lever once and another lever twice doesn't seem easier to me.

    Sorry never even heard of someone doing this, so it doesn't make sense.
    Your safety is not my responsibility.

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Deathcricket View Post
    Is this a road bike or a mountain bike? I could see this working on a road bike, but not a mountain bike where you need to shift fast. What is the weight difference? Why is it simpler? Clicking a single lever 7 times instead of clicking one lever once and another lever twice doesn't seem easier to me.

    Sorry never even heard of someone doing this, so it doesn't make sense.
    It doesnt matter if its for a road bike or the mtb its still an issue on the speed of shifting.
    Personally the reason why I did it on my mtb is simplicity. Less moving parts typically means less problems. (-shifter, -cable,-deraileur,-chain rings (+bashguard) - chain legnth)

  7. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Deathcricket View Post
    Is this a road bike or a mountain bike? I could see this working on a road bike, but not a mountain bike where you need to shift fast. What is the weight difference? Why is it simpler? Clicking a single lever 7 times instead of clicking one lever once and another lever twice doesn't seem easier to me.

    Sorry never even heard of someone doing this, so it doesn't make sense.
    For me its about simplicity as well and the weight savings. It was quite the eye opener to do the math and compare a 3x9 to a 2x10 to a 1x10. You'd be amazed at how redunt some of the gear ratios are. BY going to a 1x10 I only lose a few useful gear ratios but gain a ton in weight and simplicity. I think that is why you are starting to see the 2x10 and 1x10 becoming more and more prevelant. The shifting will be somewhat slower but not that bad. I typically do not go from 1-1 to 2-4 or 1-4. My typical loops entail a ton of 1-2 & 1-1 and a ton of 1-6 or 1-7. I do most of the bootleg loops all in my 22 tooth front, just going up and down the rear cassette as needed. The shifting delay is also helped by the conversion to higher end, zero loss shifters.

    Anyone have an answer on the BB question?
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by nelsonccc View Post
    For me its about simplicity as well and the weight savings. It was quite the eye opener to do the math and compare a 3x9 to a 2x10 to a 1x10. You'd be amazed at how redunt some of the gear ratios are. BY going to a 1x10 I only lose a few useful gear ratios but gain a ton in weight and simplicity. I think that is why you are starting to see the 2x10 and 1x10 becoming more and more prevelant. The shifting will be somewhat slower but not that bad. I typically do not go from 1-1 to 2-4 or 1-4. My typical loops entail a ton of 1-2 & 1-1 and a ton of 1-6 or 1-7. I do most of the bootleg loops all in my 22 tooth front, just going up and down the rear cassette as needed. The shifting delay is also helped by the conversion to higher end, zero loss shifters.

    Anyone have an answer on the BB question?
    No you do have a good point on the redundant gear ratios. I can totally see the logic in that. And so many times I'm going up a hill and making mental notes "Ok next time 2-3 not 2-5" type stuff so i get ya there to. I just don't see how the weight difference makes up for the speed in shifting loss. It doesn't seem like a ton of weight and was curious about the actual numbers, 5-6oz saved? But then again, I ride with a guy who doesn't take his car keys with him to save weight. No judgment!

    Let us know how it works out, very curious. If you ever drive out to St George, hit me up, love to ride with you and see your setup.
    Your safety is not my responsibility.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Deathcricket View Post
    No you do have a good point on the redundant gear ratios. I can totally see the logic in that. And so many times I'm going up a hill and making mental notes "Ok next time 2-3 not 2-5" type stuff so i get ya there to. I just don't see how the weight difference makes up for the speed in shifting loss. It doesn't seem like a ton of weight and was curious about the actual numbers, 5-6oz saved? But then again, I ride with a guy who doesn't take his car keys with him to save weight. No judgment!

    Let us know how it works out, very curious. If you ever drive out to St George, hit me up, love to ride with you and see your setup.
    By the tine i upgrade the cranks and the rear derailleur and shifter and lose the front der and shifter and rings i estimate about a 700 gram loss or about a pound and a half. Pretty good, it'll probably end up being a little less after its all said and done but still a solid pound.
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

  10. #9
    My opinion of saving weight for the reason of easier pedaling, means that you need to look at making your drive train smooth, and concentrate of your wheels and tires. bikes with lighter weight wheels ( rims and spokes ), and tubes and tires , generally roll faster. This was one of the main reasons for tubeless tires. Tread pattern can also play a role in this as well as tire pressure. I have noticed a significant differance since ditching the 3" wide tires, heavy downhill tubes and 16 oz of slime per a tire. I also had heavy duty rims with straight 14 gauge spokes laced long in a 4 cross pattern for strength. I still ride a 48 lb bike, and I have been able to pedal it on cross country type trails where I do most of my riding.

  11. #10
    I guess the main goal is to upgrade the bike, lower weight, and get a simpler drivetrain. I think I may buy 2x10 cranks and go with a 2x8 for now without replacing anything other than the cranks. Then I'll eventually replace the 8 cog cassette with a 10 cog and a new shifter and derailleur. Then I'll have a 2x10 for awhile until I feel I can properly decide whether to go to a 1x10 or not. Seems the safest way to evaluate and determine what I really want.

    I guess the main question is can my existing Shimano Octalink Spline 68x118 simply be pulled out and replaced with a external bearing BB? It looks like a lot of new cranks come with a external bearing BB.
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

  12. #11
    Two wheels from Hell live2ride's Avatar
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    Maybe you should hold off on the change and invest in a lighter bike to start out with? or just take your current big ring off, find a light bash guard and give it a try out before you start changing BB's and stuff like that. What bike were you trying to do this too? Are you planning on getting into racing hence the weight stuff? Rotational weight in wheelset is where you can feel this alot, but it is an easy way to loose weight on the bike with the seatpost, bars, saddle, and a good crankset..or don't wear a camel back and stick to waterbottles. I didn't anwser any of your questions but was just curious why you were looking to shed some weight.



    Two wheels are better than four, keep the rubber side down.

  13. #12
    You should be able to buy and install the newer style bottom bracket and cranks with your existing frame. If you don't already have an eight speed cassettle, shifter, and rear derailur, it may be difficult to find this set up. You probably won't notice any performance increases from changing the cranks and bottom bracket, but an upgrade is an upgrade. I don't typically change my crankset unless it breaks or I am looking for a different color. My most noticable upgrade has been good tires. This allows me to carry speed and momentum into corners and for the uphill sections without worrying about washing out, braking control and traction for technical areas. In the old days even the most expensive bikes came with crappy tires, or no name brands not known for making bike tires. Keeps us posted on your progress.

  14. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by live2ride View Post
    Maybe you should hold off on the change and invest in a lighter bike to start out with? or just take your current big ring off, find a light bash guard and give it a try out before you start changing BB's and stuff like that. What bike were you trying to do this too? Are you planning on getting into racing hence the weight stuff? Rotational weight in wheelset is where you can feel this alot, but it is an easy way to loose weight on the bike with the seatpost, bars, saddle, and a good crankset..or don't wear a camel back and stick to waterbottles. I didn't anwser any of your questions but was just curious why you were looking to shed some weight.
    I'm extremely happy with the bike, and I bought it mostly for the frame knowing that I would be upgrading it as I went along. I'm buying a $2K full suspension 29'er in 6-8 months so I just want to get this bike to a happy level with lots of bling! I want to shed some weight on it while upgrading. No racing for me, just want a little nicer bike. The components that came stock on it are crap and give me all sorts of problems. This week I'm buying a new seatpost, handlebar, stem, and hydraulic brakes. In a month or so I'll upgrade the drivetrain, hence the drivetrain questions. Then in another month I'll upgrade the fork.

    This is my bike. http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...cname=Mountain

    The cranks just bother me. And I REALLY like those new raceface red Atlas cranks. Booyha.
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

  15. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by REDFOX View Post
    You should be able to buy and install the newer style bottom bracket and cranks with your existing frame. If you don't already have an eight speed cassettle, shifter, and rear derailur, it may be difficult to find this set up. You probably won't notice any performance increases from changing the cranks and bottom bracket, but an upgrade is an upgrade. I don't typically change my crankset unless it breaks or I am looking for a different color. My most noticable upgrade has been good tires. This allows me to carry speed and momentum into corners and for the uphill sections without worrying about washing out, braking control and traction for technical areas. In the old days even the most expensive bikes came with crappy tires, or no name brands not known for making bike tires. Keeps us posted on your progress.
    I keep hearing that the best upgrade is tires and wheels. But there are so many options and I can't find anywhere that lists what my current Alex RHD 29", alloy double wall, pinned w/eyelets wheels weigh or what kind of what the quality they are. Also the Specialized Fast Trak LK Sport, 29x2.0" seem awfully bald now and I'll be replacing them soon. But I don't know what with.

    Any recommendations for good wheels and tires? I've briefly looked at a couple of shimano deore XT hubs and wheelsets tahta re like $300 for the pair. But I'm not sure if that's true upgrade or if they would be lighter. Also I'm a big guy, getting smaller every month, but I need something wheels that are tough.
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

  16. #15
    You can't go wrong with the Raceface cranks. I have been riding them for the past 13 years. I like welded rims for strength rather than pinned. I like the mavic rims and shimano hubs. Get Chris kings if money is no object. You should check out azonic wheel sets for quality and an inexpensive investment. You may be limited somewhat in 29" rim category. There is a thread some where in this section specifically regarding tire recomendations. Speaking from experience using specialized tires, I believe that they are the worst. I do like their bike frames and that is what I currently ride.

  17. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by REDFOX View Post
    I have been riding them for the past 13 years.
    That's why you are so damn good. Now I don't feel so bad.
    Your safety is not my responsibility.

  18. #17
    Two wheels from Hell live2ride's Avatar
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    why dont you look into the stans rims and go tubeless for the ultimate ability to keep a light set, and go tubeless? mavic has some great rims also, if you want some sweet strong rims check out the crank bros, pretty much bullet proof rims but will put a big dent in the pocket. Your not limited by the 29 much any more there are quite a large number of options and upgrades. Specialized has some nie 29 rims spec'd on the higher end bikes that are crazy light and supposed to be pretty strong, but from the looks of what you said it doesn't look like this will be your bootleg canyon bike anyway. Post some updates and make sure you get a scale out and weigh your bike so we can see the transformation!



    Two wheels are better than four, keep the rubber side down.

  19. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by live2ride View Post
    why dont you look into the stans rims and go tubeless for the ultimate ability to keep a light set, and go tubeless? mavic has some great rims also, if you want some sweet strong rims check out the crank bros, pretty much bullet proof rims but will put a big dent in the pocket. Your not limited by the 29 much any more there are quite a large number of options and upgrades. Specialized has some nie 29 rims spec'd on the higher end bikes that are crazy light and supposed to be pretty strong, but from the looks of what you said it doesn't look like this will be your bootleg canyon bike anyway. Post some updates and make sure you get a scale out and weigh your bike so we can see the transformation!
    Tubeless would be a nice upgrade for you. I remember how rocky the terrrain is there in Boulder city and the Las vegas area. Lots of sharp rocks. Before tubeless tires, I remember several people getting pinch flats during a race at Bootleg. That was the start of me using motorcycle tubes in my tires. I could lock the threaded valve stem to the rim and still run low air pressure for traction and performance. Tubless was a huge advancement for the biking industry.

  20. #19
    I thought I read that Tubeless was just as prone to getting flats as tubes? I was looking on MTBR and there seem to be a lot of people saying they spent a ton of $ to switch and then still were getting flats. I'll look into it some more. Surprisingly I have yet to get a flat on my bike, even with all of the Bootleg trips. My buddies have gotten flats but that seems to be because they run low pressure. I run mine super high and maybe the 29 wheels help. I'm sure as I get better I'll want to decrease pressure for better stickiness but for now I seem to me okay running 45 to 55 psi in the tires.

    I never thought of the moto tubes! It's not a bad idea. But they are probably pretty heavy? I know my Ultra HD tubes in my YZ are extremely heavy.

    It's funny, I've been looking at grams and such for each piece I'm upgrading and the biggest weight loss has been myself. I'm down 20 pounds since January! Booyha! And here I was last night on Ebay deciding whether to get a 148 gram stem or a 172 gram stem, an ounce!

    I bought new hydraulic brakes, a raceface atlas stem, a receface atlas handlebar, and a raceface evolve seatpost. Total weight of upgrades is about 2 pounds. can't wait to see what all the stock stuff weighed. I did weigh the original seatpost and it was 17 ounces, over a pound! The new seatpost is 9 ounces, so one upgrade netted 1/2 pound. I'll post up some pics and weights of stock vs upgrades as I go along and receive the stuff.
    beefcake. BEEFCAKE!

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