Himalayan Giants - The Khumbu

[CarpeyBiggs]

alright, the full trip report is written... wow, it is really long. props to those who can stay with it for so long... 9k words! lol



The Khumbu

The Khumbu


This is supposed to be “easy” trekking. Really, how hard can this actually be, walking only a few kilometers a day, stopping for tea every couple of hours, sleeping in proper beds, relaxing by night in heated dining rooms, and having every meal prepared by someone who isn't me? This is like backpacking, but without any work! No food to carry, no sleeping pad, no shelter, and little else besides some clothes to keep us warm and a lofty sleeping bag. And all this, among some of the most amazing scenery on earth. This is trekking I can handle. It's almost too good to be true!


Maybe because it is. Or at least, it was for me.


For the last two months, I've been wandering the Himalayas, chasing sunrises and sunsets, hoping to be inspired by fleeting views of the biggest peaks on earth. I sweated uncontrollably those early days, walking through the hot and humid middle hills, only to gasp for air a week later in the arid alpine valleys. I shuffled across breathless passes battered by wind and snow, sliding my feet along at a speed of slow that makes a glacier's progress seem inspiring. I celebrated in style atop the highest point of my life with a ridiculously expensive Snickers bar, only to retreat 90 minutes where the thicker air would mean that damned headache would actually disappear.


I pounded all the dahl bat a man could ever stand to eat, and then refilled it one more time, only to lose it all to the worst gastrointestinal bugs ever imagined. Twice.


I spent fitful nights trying to sleep, only to be roused time and time again by the sounds of a brother battling the all-too common Khumbu Cough. And after a blizzard sent us out of the Gokyo Valley, we spent 3 days waiting for planes in Lukla where I was convinced I had become immortal, because I'd swear to the Flying Spaghetti Monster that we'd been there forever.


And perhaps the moment that hurts the most – the cloudless evening at Everest base camp, and the sunset I was so keen on photographing. The one where the moon would rise as the sun would set, and the alpenglow would light up Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. It should have been perfect. I should have had my camera on a tripod, just waiting for the perfect moment to capture one of the world's most classic views.


At least, that's how I imagined it.


But instead, I lied frozen in my plywood room, curled into the fetal position beneath the insulation of my sleeping bag, grimacing in pain as my intestines cramped uncontrollably. I tried in vain to squint through the window at the scene I knew was unfolding. But I also knew it would only make my disappointment more intense. Slowly, the condensation on the window pane solidified to ice, a nearly full moon rose unobstructed over the towering east face of Nuptse, and the light fully faded, along with the photo I came all this way to make. An opportunity lost.


Yet somehow, we always managed to laugh it all off (often while gasping for air). We were a strange crew indeed; Brandon and I, the sarcastic American Brothers. Phil the Brit, who spared no opportunity to take the piss out of anyone so fortunate as to share a dining room table with him. And the Isra-Aliens, Dana, Nadav, Gilad and Yoav, who were quite possibly the finest Yanef players in the Khumbu. All of us at obviously different stages on the path of life, but all of us brought here by a common theme; the seemingly gravitational pull of experiencing Mt. Everest.


And that's part of what makes the Khumbu so interesting. It's one part mountains, one part local customs and culture, and when it's peak season for trekkers, it's one giant part international tourist. As we crossed into Sagarmatha National Park in Monjo, a hand written sign behind the desk tallied the trekkers for the month prior. Nearly 10,000 people.


Ten. Thousand. People. October 2010 had been the busiest month in the history of the park. Ever. That's the equivalent of 300 people a day, on average. Sometimes it was 800. We were astonished.


Yet, from here, it only takes a few kilometers to realize why it is so. Within a few hours, we knew we'd have our first views of the biggest mountain on earth.


My brother and I sweated our way up the way-too-demanding-to-only-be-the-second-day climb into Namche Bazaar, constantly wondering where this place really was. The landscape just didn't seem capable of holding such a large village. It was like a super-sized game of hide and seek, and there was multiple times we figured we had to be close, but no town in sight! Finally, we rounded the final small corner and caught a rather anti-climatic view of the town, the most famous Sherpa village in all the Khumbu.


This place hardly strikes me as a village. This is nearly a city! The small dirt roads are packed with all sorts of climbing and trekking shops, crowding out the dozens of multi-level hotels, all designed to handle the massive crowds of trekkers, guides, porters, and yak trains. The place even had an IME, stocked with all the best new Patagonia clothes, not to mention the official Mountain Hardwear shop, and the seemingly countless other stores selling North Fake and all other imaginable type of knocked-off outerwear.


We quickly grabbed a veggie burger (yes, you read right...) at the bakery, and randomly picked one of the many stencil-stamped lodges and settled in. The streets were chaotic, buzzing with souvenir hunters, shop owners, hard-core mountaineers, and local traders on their way to region's biggest market. The lodges all looked new, the menus packed with dozens of interpretations of popular western foods, and every corner had an internet cafe. Money seems to be pouring into this place.


As fast as the afternoon clouds effortlessly float up the Dudh Kosi valley, a realization swept through my head. Of all the places in Nepal I've seen, I think this may be the place that has benefited the most by tourism. Or is crippled?


One can't help but wonder. But as the eyes scan a seemingly infinite landscape of mountains, each twice as tall as anything I can reasonably call home, the mind is quick to find a different sense of wonder. There's clearly a few reasons this place isn't a secret.


Namche sits at around 3400 meters, pretty close to treeline. And once the trees start to thin, and you've climbed above the steep gorges of the middle hills, it's simply one jaw-dropping view after another. And it's definitely not just because of Everest. From here, it's hardly inspiring at all. Some go so far as to call Everest the fat ugly man in a room full of beautiful women. Lhotse, Taboche, Arakam Tse, Thamserku, they are all awesome, and worthy of every clich

[asdf]

[trackrunner]

makes me want to climb big mountains

[ibenick]

Incredible photos.

[Deathcricket]

I know you guys don't care about the story anyways, so I'll just post the pictures. The trip report i'm writing is like 10 pages long so far, i'll post it when it's done.

hope you enjoy...

Dude cant wait for the story. Your life is an amazing inspiration and I always eagerly click on your threads.

[ratagonia]

Wow, awesome Dan. Can't wait to see more.

Tom

[Bad Karma]

Dan you live an awesome life!!! Keep living and thanks for the pics.

PS Please let me know where you are going next so I can tag along

[Brian in SLC]

Wow, fantastic shots.

Really like that shot of Namche. And, the ones from Cho La.

Did you go from Gokyo over the pass, or, the other direction (over the pass then down to Gokyo?)?

Did a 25 day trek coming from Jiri, to Namche, then up to Gokyo, over the pass, to Kala Pattar, then climbed Island Peak, then down to Lukla. Awesome trip (back in '92).

Can't wait to read the TR!

Thanks.

[Ryebrye]

You need to get a book deal - these shots would be a great coffee table book.

Great shots. I'm jealous as always :)

[CarpeyBiggs]

makes me want to climb big mountains

you and me both... ama dablam baby. join us?

p.s. a helicopter crash resulted in two deaths while we were there, trying to rescue some stranded climbers on ama dablam. that make me NOT want to climb big mountains.

[CarpeyBiggs]

PS Please let me know where you are going next so I can tag along

freezefest. you should come!

[CarpeyBiggs]

Wow, fantastic shots.

Really like that shot of Namche. And, the ones from Cho La.

Did you go from Gokyo over the pass, or, the other direction (over the pass then down to Gokyo?)?

Did a 25 day trek coming from Jiri, to Namche, then up to Gokyo, over the pass, to Kala Pattar, then climbed Island Peak, then down to Lukla. Awesome trip (back in '92).

Can't wait to read the TR!

Thanks.

we did it opposite of you, minus the island peak climb. we did lukla-chukung-kongma la-EBC-gokyo- and snow bounced us off renjo la, so we went back to namche

[CarpeyBiggs]

i added the first part of the TR. try and get the rest up tomorrow. check the first post for the updated text...

[ratagonia]

i added the first part of the TR. try and get the rest up tomorrow. check the first post for the updated text...

Awesome, I'm running out right now to get some lentils to read it in a fully authentic manner...

T

[denaliguide]

very nice!!!

[Brian in SLC]

Awesome, I'm running out right now to get some lentils to read it in a fully authentic manner...

Get some split pea soup, thin it out until you can see through it, then, add rice but make sure there's plenty of husks and a few small rocks. Then, sprinkle a little bit of human poo into it. Voila, authentic!

Cipro was my friend on that trip, many times...

[CarpeyBiggs]

Yoav and Phil bounced off for Lobuche that morning. Probably out of some pity, they decided not to go to Dzonghla for another day, which meant we still might be able to catch back up. A day later, and feeling better, I was anxious to get out of Gorak Shep, and see some new scenery. Amazingly, I felt nearly 100 percent. I couldn't believe it. We cruised through Lobuche, started the gradual contour towards the night's stop at Dzonghla. We were there before noon, arriving to the most bizarre of all the villages we would see.


Take any reputation that Lobuche might have had, multiply it two-fold, and you have an idea of what Dzonghla is like. Only this place was still worse. Completely and utterly disgusting. Trash was tucked behind every boulder big enough to hide a two liter bottle or square of toilet paper. Rats raced through the dorm rooms trying to find any food left unsecured. An emotionless child (who looked worn out, no doubt abused by hundreds of angry trekkers before us) stared blankly at the faces of those placing orders, nodding only to acknowledge he had actually heard them. Food is guaranteed to cost nearly double what it does everywhere else, but whether or not the food came out warm was no sure thing. Human feces literally overflowed the only toilet available. And the smell was so horrific, people had no choice but to go find another place, preferably behind a huge rock for some privacy, only to find that dozens of other people had the same idea.


There are few options to trekkers for this leg. To do the whole section from Lobuche over Cho La and down to Thagnag is possible, and entirely doable, but makes for a big day. Resting halfway is the logical way to do it, with a final push into Gokyo, but in hindsight, it is the worst idea possible.


It's a shame the small little hotel there can distract so strongly from the overall atmosphere of the valley. Excepting Dzonghla, it is one of the prettiest places on the trek. Taboche, Cholatse, and Arakam Tse form huge vertical walls on their north faces. To the north lies the Lobuche massif, and to the south, Ama Dablam frames the valley, reflected in the glacially dammed lake of Cho La Tso. If the wind is quiet enough to allow it, it could be truly magical.


It really is amazing that all of us made it out of there without any significant issue. The place certainly made it easy to be motivated for an early departure in the morning. We were out of there by sunrise.


By the time the little hotel was out of sight, it was hard not to be awed by our surroundings. We slowly climbed higher, and I think all of us made the mistake of thinking Cho La was one valley to the west of where it truly is. When we finally approached the end of the valley, and saw where the trail truly went, we were even more speechless. While we were slowly shuffling along, one porter had already lugged a huge load to the top, and was sprinting down the hill to help his clients with a second. He got a chuckle out of a few of us, along with a few mumbles of “unbelievable.”


After climbing the steep rock ramp, the route mellows out quite a bit, and then makes it's way across the Cho La glacier. It's not much of a glacier by Himalayan standards, but it did require a good half hour of walking on snow and ice, and one significant crevasse that had to be skirted, but never crossed. Once on top, we took a few celebratory photos, shared the few chocolate bars we had left, and then made the nasty descent down the other side, following a semi-cairned route across a boulder field that simply leaves you scratching your head. “Is that really the trail?”


Compared to all the other major trekking routes i(which tend to be as big as roads and nearly paved like one too) this was actually pretty steep and required some attention. Yaks almost certainly couldn't cross it. Which means there is a lot less traffic too. It was a very tangible transition heading into Gokyo leaving EBC behind and all of it's crowds, and a very welcome transition at that.


We moved efficiently and made pretty good time, arriving in Thagnag around noon for lunch. The sky was cloudless, and beautiful. I knew we were at least a few hours ahead of some of our group we had met the night before, and there would be some waiting around to see where everyone would end up. I was quite astonished to feel as good as I did, considering the stomach bug just two days earlier. I looked at my watch, and my brain started wondering if I could actually make it to Gokyo today, and up Gokyo Ri in time for sunset. All I could think of was getting a chance at redemption after missing the sunset at Kala Pattar.


At one point, Gilad even asked me incredulously why I wanted to go up today. “The sunset will be there tomorrow, you know?” Perhaps, but up here, the odds weren't good, especially in the evening. However, tt was clear now, and that was enough to make up my mind.


Sure enough, the group was spread out, and by 1 pm, we were back to just 6 of us. I was feeling strong, so I took off at a quicker pace, hoping to cross the Ngozumpa glacier quick enough to have a chance at Gokyo Ri before sunset. I passed a guide and client around 1:45, and asked how far it was to Gokyo. One and a half hours, they said. And then how long up Gokyo Ri? 3 hours, round trip. The sun sets at 5 pm this time of year. They said it wasn't possible, it was too late, and it was certainly going to cloud up, pointing to the first signs of clouds coming up the valley.


Nice to have a little motivation. I scrambled over the moraine into Gokyo around 2:20, looking back for signs of the other 3. Quickly I went into the village, found a room, and told the lodge owner to keep a look out for the really tall skinny guy in a group of five, and wave them to your place when you see them. I bought a couple of snickers from him, stuffed them in my pocket, and asked him how long it would take to get to the summit. No more than 2 hours. 4:30 pm, if I can keep a solid pace. Perfect.


A quick glance back to the south, and the clouds were continuing to build. In typical fashion, the clouds roll up the valley floors, swallowing up all the views as they slowly climb higher and higher. Suddenly, I wasn't so confident about my decision.


Nonetheless, I headed out. Pacing myself so as to not lose my breath, I kept a good rhythm for about 30 minutes. Stopping to survey the scene, it was obvious the clouds were building, and building fast. In ten minutes I figured to be entirely in the white mist, and barely able to see 50 meters.


If I can just get higher, I might be able to break through.


That was all I could tell myself to keep going. Group after group passed me. All going down. All wondering what I was doing going up. One Danish guy was brash enough to ask what in the world I was thinking, pointing into the clouds engulfing us and without saying anything else, seemed to ask “do you not see all this?” I just looked him square in the face and told him “It's going to clear.” I only half believed it, but I wanted to prove him wrong. If nothing else simply to spite him and that cocky attitude.


By 4 pm, I decided to just sit down and wait. My strength was starting to run out. I had pushed myself pretty hard today, especially considering two days earlier I couldn't even get out of bed. Thoughts of a nice sunset had propelled me this far, but I was pretty sure at my current pace I wouldn't make it in time anyways. The struggle was just beginning.


Had I been able to see anything at that point, I might have realized I only had about 100 vertical meters to go, and maybe 15 or 20 minutes of actual hiking. What I figured was the last group to come down passed me, all with big smiles. And I imagined, certainly with great photos, as they had to have been above the clouds for much of the day, only to see them come barreling up the valley.


“Up or down?”


“Going up.”


“Oh, you can't give up now, you are almost there!” They had good news. As of ten minutes before, it was still clear at the summit. “Only a little farther and you'll be above the clouds!”


Unbelievable! Re-energized, I stood back up and started walking. But the energy didn't last. It was obvious I had been pushing too hard all day, and now, in that thin air, I simply couldn't walk as fast as my camera wanted me too. I was maxed out entirely. I couldn't believe it was happening again. I was crashing!


I sat down again.


This CANNOT be happening. Seriously? Again? Certainly, I must have some reserve I can tap into to make this last stretch. It's not that far. And the view is still good. And the sun is setting. And the full moon will be rising. This is my chance at redemption for what happened on Kala Pattar. Come on man, let's do this! Get moving!


I stood back up, trying to focus on slow methodical movements, when I actually realized what was happening. I had hit the cloud ceiling, and it was starting to clear. I could faintly see some of the distant peaks. A few patches of blue opened up. The clouds were swirling and moving fast, but the ceiling was near. In this landscape of unfathomable heights, measured by the thousands of meters, I figured it was only a tiny distance of 20 meters, and I'd likely have a clear view once again.


The excitement got my engine revved back up, but it didn't help. I couldn't get any power to my legs. I sat back down. No strength. Nothing. Zip. Zilch. Nada. The tank was empty, and even the vapors long burnt. No rational thought could make me get back up. Hell, I couldn't even think, it seemed like it was too much work. I'd have been fuming mad, if I had any energy to actually be angry.


It is difficult to explain exactly what it feels like to hit a wall. Unless you've ever bonked, it's impossible to understand why someone can't just keep going. One foot in front of the other isn't that hard. I've walked almost 4000 kilometers this year, and never felt it, including some massive 30 plus mile days on the JMT. I'd hadn't hit a wall in a long time. Until now.


There was just nothing left. I couldn't believe it. I would walk 20 yards, and have to stop. I could see the top. It was 10 minutes away, even if I was crawling. I had maybe 20 minutes before the sun set. But it didn't matter. I was frozen.


I figured “Why not just take some photos from here? It's not that bad.”


But the foreground was terrible and the view to the north completely obstructed. I snapped a few, but it wasn't really an option.


It seems terribly clich

[CarpeyBiggs]

I tried to add all the text, but the TR is too long... lol.

First half is in the first post. Second half is just above this message.

[CarpeyBiggs]

or go here for everything, including photos with all the captions - http://www.danransom.com/TripReports/?p=387

not sure why flickr slideshows on here don't show the captions.

[ibenick]

Great read, Dan. Very well done.