Whatcom Peak- July 2010- Pictures

[RAM]

Jenny headed home after two weeks of hard climbing. Ziff came back after 3 days
at a folk festival, between climbs. Stevee B made his way back, making his 3rd
Cascade trip. On the docket was a five day traverse the North Pickets, know for
its rugged wilderness. The trip starts with a 20 mile boat ride to a remote
trail head off of Ross Lake.

With Ziff coming in midday and other logistics, we got dropped off by the boat
at 3:30 PM. Thirteen and a half miles later, we snuck into camp at final light,
about 10 PM. It was mostly trailed old growth forest and the bugs helped us keep
a brisk pace. The next AM we completed the hike up to Whatcom Pass and started
up toward Whatcom Peak's north ridge.

This snow arete is massively exposed and brilliant! Even the loose class 3 above
the snow is a no fall zone. A fall would result in losing 3,000 feet of altitude
quite quickly ;-O. Up we went with full packs to the summit. The back side of
the peak is gentle by Cascade standards and we landed in a place called Perfect
Pass for the night. A little rain, a bit of rainbow, a sunset....hours to soak
in the wonders. Challenger Peak loomed nearby.....The pictures......


http://picasaweb.google.com/aramv14/...mPeakJuly2010#

[Scott Card]

Dang!!!! Some super sweet photos! Jealous... I was looking on your photos and I am curious if no. 20 is camera angle or is that really the angle of the climb. That is nuts. Also, you fellas hooked in to anything on that slope? I did see a rope on photo 23 but it didn't seem to be attached to anyone. Again, super sweet photos.

[Cirrus2000]

Ram, you guys have the best time... Great stuff!!

[RAM]

Dang!!!! Some super sweet photos! Jealous... I was looking on your photos and I am curious if no. 20 is camera angle or is that really the angle of the climb. That is nuts. Also, you fellas hooked in to anything on that slope? I did see a rope on photo 23 but it didn't seem to be attached to anyone. Again, super sweet photos.

It is that steep on #20. Maybe 45 degrees. In the Forbidden album is some 55 degree stuff. The fact that it was snow and not ice (mostly) led to us not using protection. If your roped up without pro at that steepness, you can lose everyone with one fall, so quite often it is "your on your own" type of thing. The reason for the rope on 23 was because we had to angle off the arete near the top and a fall there.....you don't want to know. So the leader (Ziff there) is belayed with an ax belay from below and brings the rest of us up in time. That was the only pitch we protected. Quite often, getting thru in quick order provides more safety ultimately, than dragging it out with protection and massively increasing your time in exposed environs. I just focused on my feet and didn't look around on that one, thank you very much.
Ram

[stefan]

love this ridge shot



great stuff, ram, thanks for posting