X-fest Pt.3 Long Branch of Sleepy Hollow

[forum8fox]

[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]After resting in Escalante Steve and I went back to check on the others. They hadn

[forum8fox]

We start down a wide stem/ friction slide down climb and the stemming begins, at first low as we pass through some wider openings that are like mini silo pot hole type deals. There was some water in the bottom so we all tried to keep our feet dry, and I think we all managed that task.

I believe that not long after this we encountered the first; and really, only serious up climb. I think a little walking preceded this section and what happened was the canyon pinched in front of us.

The problem was that the bottom of the climb started on a boulder with wide walls, the floor dropping below before pinching (a little Bombay like). At about mid chest height the walls pinched.

So you stand on the rock (which probably was once attached to the lower part of the wall on the left) lock off the upper body with arms out to the sides, and reach up on tip toes on one leg. The trick is that you need to get your knee up high enough to make progress.

All of this while trying to be gingerly as I was worried that the wall would blow out on me making the lip of the overhanging left wall that much higher, or worse…(I’m talking huge, rotted, hollow sounding blockage).

The only other option was to try to walk back, kind of under the death block and try to progress up the overhanging OW or squeeze chimney that starts above your waist.

This spot probably scared me more then anything else all day, as it seemed to have an uncontrollable risk factor. Like if the huge block came off and squished your ass, you don’t get much say in that.

I’m pretty sure that from this point on it was the real deal x-rated business until just before the break. It was very similar to PINTAC in the respect that it was very physical and unfriendly for the most part. Lot’s of steep, sandy, featureless, high and wide stretches had to be overcome.

I was feeling really on point this day and I feel like I ended up being up front for a decent portion of this section. We come to a drop that plays well to partner assists and Steve is down first giving me a thigh belay as I come down.

After I pass under a beautiful arch/ natural bridge I work down another little down climb. I cleverly leaned/fell into the wall to my left which allowed me to turn and put my back on the wall and go down on shoulder blades and toes.

Shortly there after I come to what appears to be the “keeper” pot hole which signifies the end of the upper section.

This looked to be the complete package at first, with a tall exit, and a mylar balloon. I work closer and upon inspection I notice a hole in the lower right side of the pot hole…

Turns out I found the key to make the pot hole a wade in the park. I go down first after taking my jeans and pads off and I find the water is less then nip’ deep, more like waist deep. I venture over towards the semi camouflage natural bridge and duck under after taking a moment to really cool off and soak up some coolant in my shorty wet suit.

Aaron and Steve bypass the hole on the right:



[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Shortly after a couple smaller drier pot holes we arrive at the break and re-fuel and take about a

[forum8fox]

I’m a little surprised that we’ve arrived here this soon but I continue on as high as possible to avoid the moss as much as I can. Especially since you have to climb back up and out very shortly after climbing down into it, and the climb back up the moss has a reputation of being hard/ slippery.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the moss I encountered on the climb back up and out seemed to grip like dry astro-turf. Maybe I was just really on my game who knows.

At this point the only real worry left in my head is the silo that was reported as scary and crossed with a horizontal belay, but supposedly not too hard.

I can’t say for sure that I ever really acknowledged this spot, however there was one spot I didn’t feel like going down to cross this silo and did it in a full bridge. There were plenty of other spots that it could have been though, as there are lot’s of deep, steep, wide sections with big penalty points.

For some reason I get the feeling that wasn’t the only time I did that but it’s the only one that really stood out exceptionally.

Sometime around this period we checked the clock and we were approaching 2 hours in the middle section. No one wanted to count chickens before eggs hatched but I half joked saying another 2.5 hours to go still hu boys? (based on the report). Also something was mentioned about maybe we’ll be done in 2.5 hours total, which I believe we could almost all agree would most likely be the case at that point in time.

Sure as hell, after all the un-relenting hard work and exposure we reached the final rap and we are in the open section 2.5 hours after starting the middle section. We only had to do the one rap at the end after replacing about 25’ of webbing.




We continue on to find Aarons pack had landed in the worst possible spot in this stretch of canyon. Completely surrounded by poison ivy, but somehow miraculously not on it, can’t say the same for the rope… I mostly lounge while the others work valiantly to retrieve the pack.

Sorry for being a lazy F’er guys… Not much of a team player move as my shit was in there too, not to mention the rope we needed to get out. I guess maybe I felt less compelled because I didn’t really need any of that stuff besides the rope, but that still doesn’t make up for it. I’ll admit it was kind of an A-hole move, and I’m going to attempt to pass the blame on my fatigue from racing along in the lead… Weak, I know…

After retrieving the bag everyone else gets their wet suits on and we lounge out for a while as we’ve earned it a bit. However I’m very anxious to get moving through these pot holes. So much so that I hardly eat, or hydrate and don’t feel compelled to put on my fleece (maybe I was kind of tired it seems).

Eventually I grow impatient and get through the first couple on my own, passing the first high on the left wall instead of risking what looked to be a nice, safe, semi short jump. I would often lower myself with my pack and daisy as a counter weight hand line into the hole, then swimming/ wade and beached whale out the back side.

On one of them I tried to do a pack toss to aid in getting out but the pack just got in my way. I come to a nice place to stop in the sun and wait for the others to get moving. I’m just dyeing to get a move on so once Landon is ready I take off through the next couple in the same fashion. I manage to work through all the pot holes and down climbs on my own and next thing I know I’m at the final drop and only real keeper of the whole canyon IMO.






I wait for the rope to arrive and then head off down into the hole that seemed totally avoidable. The anchor is a perfectly located natural bridge type deal. I get cocky and say “you call this a keeper???” right as I come close to even with the opposing lip. It didn’t look too bad but my depth perception was off from this vantage point.

The plan was to toss my pack with my webbing over the opposing lip and down the final drop to assist in climbing back out should I fail to do so on my own…

I tie off my belay and give the pack a couple girly tosses… I get made fun of and make a manly throw clear over the lip. I then proceed into the hole. I find it impossible to climb back out so I fold and go for the webbing/ pack counterweight. I end up hauling the sucker all the way back up onto the lip!

CRAP! In hind sight I could have gone down into the hole and filled my empty water bottles with pot hole water for weight. Then climbed back up the rope with the belay device attached pulling up slack and tying off at the lip again with my pack down in the hole with webbing attached. I would then pull it back up and toss it with the needed added weight, and hopefully succeed. Also my webbing wasn’t long enough and came taught before the pack touched down.

Anyway Aaron came down to my rescue and boosted me up in his hands, it wasn’t enough so I step up onto his shoulder. I then desperately fight to jump off and stem up and out after an extended stand and problem solving effort. I almost peeled shortly after getting off of his shoulder begging for “a little boost”.

Luckily he complied and I fought hard and made it, just barely! I waited and helped him out (after he gave it a couple good tried too) and we re-rigged the ropes so I could go all the way down (we still had to tie the 2 ropes together). I’m on the ground before long and next thing I know we are all down! It’s a done deal! Hell yea! WELL DONE BOYS!





We’ve made good time (even though we wasted 2 hours in the easy bottom section) and feel like relaxing a little but Steve insists car to car time is important too, we can still shoot for 10 hours if we don’t mess around too much he says. I feel semi reluctant as I’m sure we all do but we understand and comply fully after a little breather.

We arrived back at the car with a time of 9 hours 51 minutes car to car!

This was a hell of a canyon, perhaps my favorite yet to date, I’m sure I’ll be back.
Oh yeah, this guy was cool too:

[Cirrus2000]

Nice work, all you guys - and great report, Jason!

[forum8fox]

Post LB interview by Steve B. and myself:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwz9p-6PdJs