City of Rocks

[moab mark]

Headed to City of Rocks this weekend. Going with 2 families with kids from 9 to 17. We all have limited climbing experience but tons of rappeling. Any suggestions on which parts of the park are best for beginner climbing, toproping etc. Our campsite is by Elephant Rock? if that makes any difference.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a guide book but the place looks pretty big.

Mark

[Brian in SLC]

Our campsite is by Elephant Rock?

If you're by Elephant Rock, you're across the road, which is super close to Practise Rock. Great venue for what you might be looking for. Can be crowded.

Not a far drive out to Twin Sisters. Indian Chief has some nice moderates and is a good spot for TRin'.

Plenty of stuff too out at Castle Rock State Park, just next door. Tiny Town, Johnny Cash, and a few other areas out there all have nice spots for TRing. Most formations seem to require someone to lead a route though.

Take care at the City as there are a bunch of routes which are a bit longer than some folks' standard rope length (ie, like 110 feet, give or take). There's been a ton of accidents there with ropes coming up short on these longer routes.

Tryin' to think of a few more areas...of which there are tons...but, if you have any particular questions, give a shout. I know the area fairly well.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[moab mark]

Thanks

[madsjim]

You might try out by Anteater rock, a fun route called Swiss Cheese is pretty easy, it must be led first though.

If the adults or experienced climbers want to get out and have a good fun climb, you should definitely try Theater of Shadows out on Jackson's Thumb. It is a 4 pitch, 5.7 fully bolted. The crux(5.7) is on the first pitch, from there it is really easy with great exposure and lots of bolts to make you confident. I would hit it up early morning before the sun hits the base, you can beat the crowds that way. I've found the final rap is easiest if you haul up a second rope and double strand rappel, just one rope would be risky.

If you don't have it already, Dave Bingham's guide book is excellent with great descriptions and indices.

[Brian in SLC]

You might try out by Anteater rock, a fun route called Swiss Cheese is pretty easy, it must be led first though.

If the adults or experienced climbers want to get out and have a good fun climb, you should definitely try Theater of Shadows out on Jackson's Thumb. It is a 4 pitch, 5.7 fully bolted. The crux(5.7) is on the first pitch, from there it is really easy with great exposure and lots of bolts to make you confident. I would hit it up early morning before the sun hits the base, you can beat the crowds that way. I've found the final rap is easiest if you haul up a second rope and double strand rappel, just one rope would be risky.

Kinda funny, but I know folks who lead Scream Cheese to TR Swiss Cheese...

That area can see a lot of action. Ditto Morning Glory aka the Incisor next door.

Yeah, that route on Jackson' Thumb is pretty fun, and so is the one next door, Sinocranium. Although, I'll have to say I did get a back ache bending over to clip all the extra bolts (!). Actually a good route for inexperienced climbers. Tad over bolted, methinks (although I appreciate and enjoy Kevin's routes, to be sure, and, he's a nice guy. His book on the geology on the area is really good, too).

-Brian in SLC

[madsjim]

I've never been brave enough to lead Swiss Cheese with just that one bolt, I can't remember though how much pro you could through in, probably a few pieces.

Ha, no kidding about the back ache on ToS, I always run out of breath from moving too fast up that face. There are definetely a lot of bolts on Kevin's routes. My first lead climb was Too Much Fun and I was glad for each bolt though I believe I ran out of draws near the top. They are a real confidence builder.