My Rappelling Accident in Moab

[Cirrus2000]

Wow, jman, hope you're better soon! That's pretty spooky.

I, too, was interested in the left hand. I always wonder why people don't use that hand. I mean, waving is good, and using it to manoeuvre past an obstacle or over a lip is great. But most of the time, guess what it is - it's a backup, as much as any other type of equipment. And if your backup is nowhere near the useful part of the rope (the brake side), then what the heck use is it? Plus, its location closer to the rappel device makes it even more effective to stop and lock, when using an ATC type device. Jam the rope right up against the HMS or belay loop - maximum braking on the device - you're halfway to a mule. Any photo of me rapping, if I'm not locked off, or working onto the rappel, over a lip, etc., both hands are in a useful braking position.

Speaking of the left hand (for the right-handed folks, anyway), as an aside, I figure there's only one place worse for the free hand than swinging around uselessly - and that's having it holding the rope above the rappel device, on the anchor side. What the hell use is that? Anyone that I'm teaching to rappel, I instruct not to hold onto that rope. The natural reaction, when having trouble on a rappel, is to panic and try to grip that ever tighter - that's where the anchor is, that's where safety is! If you're losing friction on a rappel, you have to lock the rope off somehow, not batman down from above your belay device. Anybody have any thoughts on that? Am I out to lunch (considering the number of people who keep one hand above and one hand below their device?)



Oh - and Udink: a Yugo?!? I'm amazed that it held 4x 200-pounders, and drove at all.

[ratagonia]

And, I broke #1 rule of rappelling, belay. That's what it comes down to.

Um, maybe I number them differently...

Rule #1 is set up your rappel device so it has the 'right friction', and does not require Hulkian hand-strength to control your rappel.

Somewhere down the line is have a belay if it seems appropriate. Certainly having a belay is more important than getting the video.

Tom

[oldno7]

I want to say thanks to Jman for posting up on his close call.
We all learn from this. And I believe it can potentially happen to anyone.

[bruce from bryce]

In all sports that I've participated in I've found that I lose a lot of water and have to consciously ensure that I replace those electrolytes. When getting ready to do a canyon I now will drink a liter of gatorade prior to beginning and ensure that I stay on top the loss by drinking regularly in the canyon. I also carry those little Cliff Shot Blocks to chew on. Now the problem.

After bagging the rope one or two times I will start to experience cramps in my hands which make it difficult if not impossible to get the rope in the bag. As of yet I have not experience cramps in my hands while on rappel but I am cognicent of that possiblity (but if they cramp up really bad my hand will grip the rope really well -- I think).

I always ask for a bottom belay on anything over 100'. Just this week in Icebox in Red Rock I asked for one on the last rappel, mainly since I had never been in a waterfall before and had no idea on what it would be like. Neoprene glove worked fine and for backup I had my no-brake hand crossed over and lightly gripping the rope also.

Know yourself; know the danger signs; know the remedies!

bruce from bryce

[moab mark]

I want to say thanks to Jman for posting up on his close call.
We all learn from this. And I believe it can potentially happen to anyone.

X 2 hope you all goes well with the Doc.

As Tom asked and Jman stated there is a bolt garden at the top of the arch. I was in Gearheads one day and asked the guy behind the counter why there were so many bolts. The story he told me was several years ago marlboro filmed an adventure ad at Corona. Corona Arch runs 90 degs to the wall you walk along to get on top of it. He said they sunk all those bolts because they rigged ropes and then went over on the wall and jumped off and swung thru the arch and filmed it for a cig ad? Have no idea whether true or not, maybe somebody else knows the history of the bolts but there are a bunch up there.

If you really like stunt rappels in Moab head down and rappel thru the hole/arch of looking glass rock. It's been so long ago but I think there are bolts there also?

Mark

[Iceaxe]

When I was up there, there are two bolts with chains that are used as the primary rappelling ones. And then there are 4-5 other bolts just on south of it, maybe a 1-2ft away (I imagine for multiple rappellers).

I was told some of the industrial strength bolts on top of Corona were from filming crews doing commercials. I used to even know the commercials but can't remember them right now.... seems like one might have been for Jeep..... Moab Matt probably knows...

I want to say thanks to Jman for posting up on his close call.
We all learn from this. And I believe it can potentially happen to anyone.

x2

[canyoncaver]

First of all, thanks to the OP for sharing so that others can learn. Also, very glad to hear that you survived what must have been a terrifying incident.

Unfortunately the analysis of this incident is leading some of you into incorrect and very unfortunate conclusions. This incident is not the result of skinny rope, biner blocks, single strand, or lack of belay. This incident is an out-of-control rappel that resulted from an inappropriate descender. The ATC was plain and simple not able to provide enough friction.

Someone can correct me if they think I'm wrong, but the ATC was never meant for this type of rappelling. I do not understand how anyone could think it appropriate to rappel an ATC single-strand on 8 or even 9mm free-hanging rope.

There are many devices that would be more appropriate including rappel rack, bobbin, SRTE, figure eight...hell, even a munter hitch would provide more friction. ATC seems like a bottom of the barrel choice for this application.

I think Brian should amend his mantra to read "single-strand, biner-blocked, skinny rope is not appropriate...WHEN USING AN ATC" Biner-blocked skinny rope is fine and dandy when you and your rappel device can handle it.

Bottom belays and autoblocks are not the answer. They are band-aid measures that must be applied when people insist on using tube devices on single rope.

[Scott Card]

Let me add a bit of a counter point, although not altogether on point. I find the ATC-XP highly effective with single 8mm ropes. Add a biner and I am golden in Heaps.

[jman]

First of all, thanks to the OP for sharing so that others can learn. Also, very glad to hear that you survived what must have been a terrifying incident.

Unfortunately the analysis of this incident is leading some of you into incorrect and very unfortunate conclusions. This incident is not the result of skinny rope, biner blocks, single strand, or lack of belay. This incident is an out-of-control rappel that resulted from an inappropriate descender. The ATC was plain and simple not able to provide enough friction.

Someone can correct me if they think I'm wrong, but the ATC was never meant for this type of rappelling. I do not understand how anyone could think it appropriate to rappel an ATC single-strand on 8 or even 9mm free-hanging rope.

There are many devices that would be more appropriate including rappel rack, bobbin, SRTE, figure eight...hell, even a munter hitch would provide more friction. ATC seems like a bottom of the barrel choice for this application.

I think Brian should amend his mantra to read "single-strand, biner-blocked, skinny rope is not appropriate...WHEN USING AN ATC" Biner-blocked skinny rope is fine and dandy when you and your rappel device can handle it.

Bottom belays and autoblocks are not the answer. They are band-aid measures that must be applied when people insist on using tube devices on single rope.

I understand what you are saying. Although, I have never had a problem with friction before. Really, I haven't. Even on a skinny 8.3mm.

I will agree that the ATC is not necessarily the best descender on a free-hang. I probably should of switched to another descender but I didn't.
I have always been super comfortable with the ATCs, even in Class C canyons.

Again, just to clarify there was no problems with the anchoring system or knots, etc. It was a freak accident with my hand locking up, and the small things adding up to the crash (could of used different ATC, no belay (as he was taking pictures, etc.)

I'm very thankful as it could of been a LOT worse. Complacency mixed in with a freak accident, contributed to this. And to think if I didn't wear a helmet (or even a backpack as it protected by back)...SCARY!



Anyways, on to the update:
Just saw Dr. Goucher at MckayDee Hospital around noon and they removed the splints. The swelling has died down a bit, and discoloration (bruising) has mostly gone away. The left ankle is still VERY swollen and so they won't be able to operate on it till next week on Thursday (otherwise, it would be this week).

The boot two boots/shoes on and it feels great to get some air to them and I can finally itch it too!!

The Dr. was saying that the right ankle should be walkable within a month, and the left ankle could take 3-5months depending on the outcome of surgery and how fast I heal, etc.

BTW - the nurses for his office are SUPER HOT! and they are close to my age (26). goodness gracious!

Let me add a bit of a counter point, although not altogether on point. I find the ATC-XP highly effective with single 8mm ropes. Add a biner and I am golden in Heaps.

That's the ATC I use and on the friction or teeth side and I'm good to go. Although, I use a bit more friction in Heaps or Imlay....that's for sure!! haha...

[ratagonia]

Someone can correct me if they think I'm wrong, but the ATC was never meant for this type of rappelling. I do not understand how anyone could think it appropriate to rappel an ATC single-strand on 8 or even 9mm free-hanging rope.

That sounds like a job for me!!!!

Yeah, you're wrong.

OK, yes, the ATC (plain vanilla) was designed around 10.5mm climbing ropes. The ATC-XP was designed for smaller ice climbing ropes like 8s and 9s, including belaying a single line 8mm, so Yes, the ATC-XP was designed for rappelling like this, kinda sorta.

It is certainly possible for Jman to get the correct amount of friction using several biners and a regular ATC for this free rappel. Obviously he did not do so in this case.

A stiff static 9mm canyoneering or caving rope is about equivalent in speed to a soft (normal) 10mm climbing rope - so VERY appropriate for an ATC (plain vanilla) on a free rappel.

Again, the problem is not the device. The problem is experience in setting up the device for the 'right' amount of friction in the situation. Easier with some devices than others, but possible with almost anything.

Tom

[ratagonia]

BTW - the nurses for his office are SUPER HOT! and they are close to my age (26). goodness gracious!

And you give us pictures of some dude's ankles?????

T

[ratagonia]

I understand what you are saying. Although, I have never had a problem with friction before. Really, I haven't. Even on a skinny 8.3mm.

People have different styles of how much friction they like. I imagine you like the rappel relatively "loose", which requires substantial hand strength to control well (leading to hand fatigue on long raps). I prefer having it "fairly tight" such that it takes very little control pressure.

The later style is a bit more forgiving.

Tom

[jman]

It is certainly possible for Jman to get the correct amount of friction using several biners and a regular ATC for this free rappel. Obviously he did not do so in this case.

Tom

I used a ATC-XP on teeth/friction side, and leg carabiner, and pigskin gloves (fairly common for most rappels). I could of used a different descender with more friction, but in my book now, a belayer on a free-hang rappel is mandatory - absolutely required. Although, I'm not saying it's the belayers fault in this one, but it would of saved me from crashing. And if my hand didn't lock up on me, I would descended the arch (for my 5th time) without a hitch, and this incident wouldn't have happened...

[jman]

BTW - the nurses for his office are SUPER HOT! and they are close to my age (26). goodness gracious!

And you give us pictures of some dude's ankles?????

T

indeed! that's for the next visit! especially, the receptionist, a very cute blonde. man....

[jman]

I understand what you are saying. Although, I have never had a problem with friction before. Really, I haven't. Even on a skinny 8.3mm.

People have different styles of how much friction they like. I imagine you like the rappel relatively "loose", which requires substantial hand strength to control well (leading to hand fatigue on long raps). I prefer having it "fairly tight" such that it takes very little control pressure.

The later style is a bit more forgiving.

Tom

That is mostly true, yes. And I do have good hand strength - perhaps overexertion led to the hand lockup.

Although, at the very least, this incident has taught me (and those I go with) to use a bit more friction on rappels. Even if they are almost feeding it through their descender, it's better than the end-result like with me - hence what you said made me LOL - "the later style is a bit more forgiving."

[Brian in SLC]

The ATC was plain and simple not able to provide enough friction.

Someone can correct me if they think I'm wrong, but the ATC was never meant for this type of rappelling.

I'm with Tom, BD and Petzl for that matter, as they have a similar devices. So does Camp, Kong, and vitually every other belay/rappel device manufacterer.

Folks climb on twins and doubles all the time. And, these devices are fully capable of providing enough friction IF RIGGED PROPERLY.

In fact, from the BD website, for the ATC-Sport, which can only be rigged on a single cord at at time (single slot, not dual):

"Dual friction modes, handles ropes 7.7 to 11 mm"

Would I rappel single strand on an 8mm rope on a free air rappel, with a single ATC in what I'd call "standard" mode (just a single biner on the belay loop)? Goodness no.

Have I rappelled on a single 8, out of Heaps, say? Yeah. Two ATCs, one on the belay loop, one on a sling above the belay loop, in series, perfect friction for me, with leg biners ready if need be, and another for a redirect on top if need be.

Also done back to back 300 foot rappels, mostly free air, on a fairly skinny cord (out of Birch Creek in Zion). Single ATC, multi biners on the belay loop, munter hitch on the leg loop. Works.

Have also rappeled 6mm a number of times, but, wouldn't recommend it and no need to further discuss that...(ha ha).

Gobs of ways to rig ATC's. They're not the wrong device, but, another tool. Simple and functional as both a belay device and rappel device.

I think a glove is a great back up, but, as mentioned before, it doesn't help with the friction the system should be seeing. I rarely use one for long rappels. If you dial in the friction, they just aren't needed. In fact, a glove may fool you into thinking you have great friction in your system, that is, until your hand finally cramps up...

You really gain a TON of friction when you rappel double strand. Geez, I wonder if the relationship is linear... Two ropes = double the friction?

I'll add a biner or two if I'm on a super steep or free rappel on double 7.6mm's. Ditto if single on a 8.9mm rope on a steep rappel. That's usually adequate for me.

Everyone needs to figure out what works for them. Based on body size, terrain, experience, personal likes, etc. Its rare there's a one size fits all, especially for rappelling.

And, in case you drop whatever rig you're using, a biner brake or three is smooth as silk, and, doesn't twist the ropes. Take care on multiple rappels to not drop the biner brakes...(everyone learns this the hard way).

For wet, fat ropes, I really like the Pirana...single strand, or whatever.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[Sombeech]

note to self:
Never announce a mistake made whilst rappelling.

[ratagonia]

I'm with Tom, BD and Petzl for that matter, as they have a similar devices. So does Camp, Kong, and vitually every other belay/rappel device manufacterer.

...

-Brian in SLC

Note for statisticians: a point of agreement between Brian and Tom, so EARLY in the year. We might even get 2 or 3 this year!!!

Tom

[jman]

note to self:
Never announce a mistake made whilst rappelling.

haha, yea learned my lesson about that...

[moabmatt]

I used a ATC-XP on teeth/friction side, and leg carabiner, and pigskin gloves (fairly common for most rappels). I could of used a different descender with more friction, but in my book now, a belayer on a free-hang rappel is mandatory - absolutely required. Although, I'm not saying it's the belayers fault in this one, but it would of saved me from crashing.

Be careful with relying on a bottom belayer to save you, especially while using a leg carabiner. Your upward braking motion will conflict with the belayer's downward pull. If you're not able to control yourself with a leg 'biner, it's unlikely your belayer will be able to control you without it.