My Rappelling Accident in Moab

[jman]

So my friend and I had this trip planned out for Moab from Last Sunday till this Thursday.

We planned to do Big Horn, Corona Arch, Tierdrop, Elephante Butte, Medieval Chamber, Hunter Canyon and a few other hikes.

On Sunday afternoon we drove down from Northern Utah and found a good campsite along the Colorado. The entire area was soaked and mini streams and waterfals were abundunt. Also, on Sunday the campsites were nearly full and most hotels were full.

My friend Ian and slept in till 8:30 and decided to do The Tunnel and Big Horn first. We arrived at the cottonwod wash around 9:30. I have previously visited the tunnel on a previous trip but Ian has not. We reached the Tunnel and all of the sandstone was covered in a lot of dust and mud which made running up to the entrance virtually impossible. We both wanted to enter it so got creative and did a packtoss of my bag and got right inside the "pothole" at the entrance. We attached about 20feet of webbing to it and successfully climbed the webbing and entered the tunnel. Good practice and very cool!

So we continued on and worked our way up the scree slope to the top of the Plateau. That ascent is a beast but it paid off with all of the streams and waterfalls flowing over the rocks (btw - blue sunny skies). After 20 min on top of the plateau we found Big Horn and found some entrance webbing that people would use as a handline to descend it. This seemed a little boring to us so we decided to go back on top of the plataeu and look for another canyon. Either one one or two canyons above Big Horn we found our canyon.

The first 200ft is downclimable but only by experts due to the very steep slopes, wider canyon, and a few 4-5ft overhangs leading to the next pothole with a lip. We continued on and came to a 55ft rappel in a grotto. The grotto was very flat and there was no holes in the rock to create anchors and on all sides was very steep. And before you entered the grotto, there is a 20ft vry steep slide to enter it. Climbing out naturally would be nearly impossible without the aid of ascending gear and potshots, hooks, etc. So we were in this unescapable Grotto with only 3 rocks the size of basketballs. We found a few plants in there and dug with our hands and placed a deadman anchor behind the plants. We then successfully descended the 55 foot free rappel.

After that it led to more downclimbing and soon we found a ramp down the base of the cliffs and within 200 yards of downclimbing we hit the road and walked back to our car.

When we were in there, we found no bolts, no webbing, not even 1 single rope groove in the sandstone and figured this was a first descent in many months. The canyon was unimpressive and would not suggest that canyon to anyone. We named it "Not-BigHorn."

After this we had lunch at 4pm. We had a few options of what to do next and decided on Corona Arch Rappelling.

We were on top of the arch by 5:30pm. On top we took our time, laughed and talked, rested, and took lots of pictures. My friend Ian got cold-feet due to the free-rappel length and climbed back down to the bottom of the arch. I then clipped in and was ready to go! This would be my 5th time on this rappel. As I lowered myself down the rope (Imlay Fire 8.3mm, single strand on Biner block) I first noticed that I was going pretty fast. I stopped about 1/4 down and tied off to let my right hand rest and let my glove cool down. After 30seconds or so I continued down very slowly using my leg carabiner to slow me down too. At about 30-40 feet from the ground, my braking hand started to spasm and I was losing control of the braking. I tried immediately to stop the descent by pulling up and tieing up, but my hand would not budge...

End result..I dropped (AKA cratered) anywhere from 30-40 feet with no friction on the atc to slow me down. I dropped like a fat man. I didn't black out or anything and remember vividly of coming to the ground and landing on both ankles, which then immediately threw me on my back. When I landed, I also bit into my tongue and left 4-5 deep puncture wounds. I didn't bite anything off fortunately, and all the feeling has returned to all parts of my tongue, but initially it was bleeding for 30minutes or so.

As soon as I landed, I immediately thought that I broke both ankles, broke a rib, broke my back and possibly had some internal damage (from the compression of landing from so high up). I was in shock and was trying to make sense of my body's situation as I was almost crying while saying "ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ow ouch....." (I'm EMT-B certified) and my friend who was taking pictures of me from far away run to me immediately, and told him my instructions. Check my eyes for equal-ness, reactive-ness, and dilation. The told him to do a rapid body sweep checking for protruding bones or rigidness in the stomach, or neck abnormalities, etc. By this time, I was gaining control of the situation and confirmed I didn't hit my head or neck, and there was no back pain. Then I proceeded (while laying down of course) to wiggle my toes and fingers to see if there was any back nerve damage. I could move them! We continued checking my body for other damage besides the extruciating pain in my ankles. By this time it was after 7 and getting chilly, and the sun was starting to set. After about 10minutes of evaluating me, I told him to leave me the water, food and all the clothing he had and to elevate my feet. He then ran down to the Gold Bar campground (a mile+ one way) to ask to get some volunteers to create a harness and save me.

(We didn't have cell phone reception at all up there and I gave him my 2way radio to keep in communication while he ran for help).

What seemed like 20minutes to me as I was alone in my thoughts and said a small prayer of asking God to send some help for my friend, Ian came back with 3 other people which turned out to be more than an hour. By this time it was black outside, and everyone was running towards me with headlamps on.

To be continued later tonight......

[Iceaxe]

[Jaxx]

OH dang!

[R]

OH dang!

I was thinking a harsher expletive might be in order.

[DOSS]

OH dang!

I was thinking a harsher expletive might be in order.

how about FORK!


and you can't just leave your audience hanging like that.. not cool

[jman]

Sorry to keep everyone in suspense...I was very busy last night.

Continuing on...

So, Ian and three guys that he grabbed from the campgrounds came running towards me with their headlights on. We kept in constant communication so they knew I was "ok". But I was getting pretty cold (a cold night about 45+ F) and it was pitch black.

They got to me and asked questions how I was doing and two of the guys brought up a fleece jacket and goose-feather jacket. I wore both of those and within minutes my upper body was sweating. It was a great feeling to be warm again. I took off the down jacket and just wore the fleece now. After that, I told them to do another rapid assessment of my body and condition and they and I decided that we could make it out of there.

For the next 1/2 mile or so I put my arms around two of the guys shoulders as they carried me down the un-even trail. They switched turns with the other two guys there and did their best in taking me down.

Once we were past the ladders and everyone's shoulder's were exhausted of carrying me we took about a 10minute break. While we were resting we heard some voices and a bunch of headlights coming UP the trail. There was about 9 people in this group and they were all wearing reflective helmets that said rescue. I immediately thought it was some SAR rescue group coming to help. Nope. It was actually a bunch of med-students from Lincoln Nebraska Community College during their Spring Break heading up to Corona Arch to rappel off it! To me, it was a prayer answered! The students asked if they could help and obviously we let them. They didn't have any medical gear with them, only ropes and webbing. My friend and I also had over 100+ ft of webbing each in our backpacks and we took out one of them and created a sling or harness for me to lay on. We tied a loop into the end of the webbing and pulled it to the other side of my body and created another loop. We did that 6 more times so 8 people could hold on to a loop and my weight would be distributed. Then the people who were not carrying a loop would switch turns holding my head up as they carried me down.

For the last mile or so, everyone worked their butts off and were sweating and did a awesome job in carrying me down safely! It took close to 2 hours to go the mile due to the terrain but they did it! Those guys saved the day!

Next they loaded me into the car and Ian drove me to the Hospital in Moab. We got to the ER a little before 11pm and it was empty. Very dead. Ian told the admitting nurse I was there and just gave him a wheelchair and that was it. Ian spent then next 15min by himself helping me into the wheelchair. (where was a nurse or tech to assist?) We go inside and a ER tech asked me lots of questions and did a basic assessment of my body and told me the doc would be in soon. About 30minutes later, the Dr. came in and and told me to get some X-Rays.

The Rad Tech guys was pretty cool. His name is Matt and in his 40s and said that he use to guide for a local Canyoneering company. hmm....interesting.

After the x-rays came back, the Dr. came back in around 2am and told me that I only has 2 fractures. Both on my left leg - on the talus and tibia. And the fractures are actually 3 fragments that chipped from the talus (one of the supporting ankle bones). The right leg had nothing obvious showing, which meant no fractures or breaks, etc - but not definitive.

So the Dr. admitted me that night and I spent the night there and was actually taken care of very well! They gave me two hydracadone's (AKA vicodin) every 6 hours for the pain and made sure I was warm, and had plenty of water, etc. Very helpful and compassionate nurses.

About 6am, they wheeled me back to do some CT scan (more definitive than X-Ray) to make sure that's all that was going on in my ankles. After 40 minutes of testing - they wheeled me back into the room and the orthopedic Dr. came in and told me nothing else showed up on the CT scans! The Dr. also said it would be a good idea to get some x-rays of my chest, and lower back just to make sure there was nothing wrong either.

So, they wheeled me off again to the X-ray room and about 10minutes later I was done. The took me back to the room and the Dr. came back in and told me that nothing was bruised or showed up on the x-ray and that my internal organs "look good".

About 5 hours after that, my Mother and brother picked me and took me home.

There's a lot more details, but I don't have the strength to type it anymore...sorry.


Today is Day 2 at home, and I have only had 1 Loritab pill for the pain in the past two days!

I survived a 25-35 foot fall and survived with only a minor fractures on my left ankle. 0 back pain (even though I had compression of my upper body when I landed), and 0 pain everywhere else. And even now, without any loritabs, my pain level is about a 1 out of 10. And I was very fortunate who had a friend who RAN the entire way to the campground and back, and very fortunate to have run into the med students who also assisted in carrying me down. I've also been very fortunate to have all of the outpouring of love, support, and help from family, friends and even acquaintances. One story that really touched me was my mom had a Dentist appointment yesterday and told the Dentist (whom I have only seen twice in the past 3 years) about my 30foot dead-fall and how I was so lucky in suriviving - and the Dr. said, "it wasn't Brett was it?! I hope he gets better! We'll have to send him a card." I mean come on, I've only seen him twice and was almost brought to tears when my mother told me that story. And just today, I received the card. It's from my dentist)!

So I am very thankful for everyone who was involved especially my hero, my friend Ian.


I have a Ortho appt at Mckay Dee this Monday, and possibly surgery later that week, so wish me luck on that.

So lesson learned:

Never ever rappel off a free-rappel without a belay (should be used on every rappel, but ESPECIALLY free-hanging ones). Which we didn't.

Second, always carry 2 way radios (even if you will be in close-communication your ENTIRE trip....u just NEVER know). Which we did.

Third, always let someone know your plans or itinerary. Which we did again.


I do have a question though - my step-mom was telling me that there is some tool that you clip on to you or your rope that "senses" when you go fast down a rappel it will "automatically" slow you do - preventing falling or "cratering" which I did. Sound familiar? I do not know of such a device.


Pics to come shortly!

[Iceaxe]

I do have a question though - my step-mom was telling me that there is some tool that you clip on to you that "sense" when you go fast down a rappel, it will automatically slow you do - preventing falling or "cratering" which I did. sound familiar? I do not know of such a device.

Sounds like your step mom is taking about a Petzl shunt, or maybe an autoblock or prusiks..... Which can go above or below your rappel devise. Both methods have pro's and con's.... same goes for using an autoblock in general.

[Iceaxe]

Here is a pretty good video of a Petzl Shunt being used for a self belay while climbing. Watch the video and you will get the idea.

The correct way to use a shunt while rappeling is to keep your hands off of the lever and simply place your palm on the back of the device and slide it toward you.

And a warning.... you should never use a shunt or autoblock when rappeling in water (class C canyons). The devise might lock up and you could drowned before you get the device to release.

[jman]

Hmm....I know that self-belay devices work and told my step-mom about that, but she said it was different. She said you clip it on when you rappel and if you are going past a certain set device speed - the device will click in and automatically brake.

She says her son uses it all the time...I'll have to tell her to ask him the name of it.

Anyways, thanks shane.

[jman]

here are some pics...see pic description.

[trackrunner]

Hmm....I know that self-belay devices work and told my step-mom about that, but she said it was different. She said you clip it on when you rappel and if you are going past a certain set device speed - the device will click in and automatically brake.

She says her son uses it all the time...I'll have to tell her to ask him the name of it.

only others that come to mined are petzl stop, grigri . . . but those don't work exactly like that.

[Brian in SLC]

Hmm....I know that self-belay devices work and told my step-mom about that, but she said it was different. She said you clip it on when you rappel and if you are going past a certain set device speed - the device will click in and automatically brake.

She says her son uses it all the time...I'll have to tell her to ask him the name of it.

only others that come to mined are petzl stop, grigri . . . but those don't work exactly like that.

I've used one of these at a climbing gym:

http://www.redpointdescender.com/

Note that they have been recalled/discontinued.

Way too huge to take into the field. Mount on a wall for use in a climbing gym. Kinda nutty to use, and, takes a bit to get used to it. You fall onto the rope and the device catches you, and gently lowers you down. Gives me the heebie jeebies. Kinda neat way to climb solo and get a bunch of laps in solo, though.

Yeah, I can think of a Petzl Stop, or, maybe a Gri Gri.

There's a few lead belay devices like the Wren Industries "Silent Partner" but I've never heard of folks using one for a rappel back up. I guess you could. Be a pain, though. Big device.

Petzl makes a device called the "Rig". Industrial safety type gear. Looks similar to their "I'D". I don't think any of these devices "sense" when you're travelling too fast though.

http://www.petzl.com/us/pro/self-braking-descenders-0

Anyhoo, yeah, find out what that rig is and let us know.

Sorry to hear about the foot. Heal well!

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[trackrunner]

maybe this device

[Brian in SLC]

That device doesn't appear to be available to the public (yet). Looks very similar to the Petzl items. Ie, it doesnt' detect when your speed is too high.

-Brian in SLC

[Jaxx]

Good job Ian!!! That is a great story. Pretty lucky that those med guys came by.

[ratagonia]

Hmm....I know that self-belay devices work and told my step-mom about that, but she said it was different. She said you clip it on when you rappel and if you are going past a certain set device speed - the device will click in and automatically brake.

She says her son uses it all the time...I'll have to tell her to ask him the name of it.

only others that come to mined are petzl stop, grigri . . . but those don't work exactly like that.

You might do better to learn how to use the tools you already have, rather than acquiring more gadgets.

Just sayin...

T

[moabmatt]

You might do better to learn how to use the tools you already have, rather than acquiring more gadgets.

Just sayin...

T

I'll second this. Not to mention those gadgets may not work on single strand 8mm rope.

[Brian in SLC]

You might do better to learn how to use the tools you already have, rather than acquiring more gadgets.

I didn't want to say it...

Was hoping Mr. "after action analysis" would show up...

Ha ha.

Single strand on a skinny rope for a free air rappel. Hmmm.

I'd a been riggin' for bear. Probably two ATC's, stacked one atop the other. And/or, multiple biners for the single ATC with a munter pre-rigged on the leg, maybe a biner topside for a redirect if need be, and, able to wrap rope around body, switch brake hands, maybe use both hands for brake...etc.

If the brake hand was "gettin' too hot", then that was a clue there wasn't enough friction for the job at hand.

Having a belay is a good idear, if, you don't know either how to rappel, or, how to rig for a high angle, single strand, skinny rope situation (or a combination of the both). But, it doesnt' address the problem that caused the accident in the first place.

It is interesting to ponder. Fatter ropes, more risk tolerant rappel devices, etc, are all things folks use in other disciplines (and, in Europe, fat ropes are the rule, not the exception). We're very used to having, as a standard, these skinny ropes to rappel on. And, we (when I say "we" I mean the community as a whole, not necessarily me) use these skinny cords single strand, with a single ATC type device. That's kinda standard. Its a standard that isn't tolerant of much, uhh, variation in technique and/or experience.

If it was a seasoned caver, on a free rappel in a pit drop for example, they'd rig it totally differently.

Anyhoo...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

[trackrunner]

That device doesn't appear to be available to the public (yet). Looks very similar to the Petzl items. Ie, it doesnt' detect when your speed is too high.

-Brian in SLC

what no comments on how it works well with motor oil lubed ropes?

I've always wanted a desencer that works well with motor oil.

[Iceaxe]

First off.... Jman, I'm happy it wasn't too serious....

Second.... if I'm reading this all correct (biner block/skinny rope/single strand) it looks like we now have anther accident that we can add to the long list of people getting hurt because of complicating the rigging..... now might be a good time for reevaluating some of the current "standards" folks are using.... or we can wait until someone else actually dies....

Just sayin'....

From: http://www.bogley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19594
[quote=Iceaxe]One of my biggest beefs/complaints is that a lot of folks take simple rigging and make it complicated