Eagle Dance beta? - Red Rocks

[xxnitsuaxx]

We're going to Red Rocks for the first time over New Years. I've been looking at doing Eagle Dance but don't feel like learning to trad on an 11 pitch climb. It looks like it's pretty well-bolted for aid climbers - anyone done it and can tell me if a trad rack is necessary or just helpful?

[Brian in SLC]

We're going to Red Rocks for the first time over New Years. I've been looking at doing Eagle Dance but don't feel like learning to trad on an 11 pitch climb. It looks like it's pretty well-bolted for aid climbers - anyone done it and can tell me if a trad rack is necessary or just helpful?

Well bolted for aid climbers because it has a mandatory aid pitch on it.

Not done it, but, a few friends have. Unless you on sight solo 5.9 you'd want a set of gear. This wouldn't be a good option for your first "trad" route.

Also, its a grade V route. There's only 10 hours of daylight. Loop road doesn't open until 6am and closes at 5pm. Most folks take 2 hours for the approach. That doesn't leave a whole lot of time for an 11 pitch route, and, one that doesn't climb quickly due to there being a bolted aid pitch on it.

There's a ton of climbs to cut your teeth on in Red Rocks, but, my guess is that route wouldn't be one of them for you.

Good luck,

-Brian in SLC