U Turn - Flying Under the Radar

[Iceaxe]

In regards to the Arches National Park canyoneering route known as U-Turn, it has recently become popular to sling a boulder near Wily E. Coyote Rock for the final rappel. This rappel is approximately 85-feet and deposits you on a slickrock bench just north of the Park Avenue Trailhead and Viewpoint. This rappel is highly visible from the tourist saturated viewpoint and trail. I have concerns that continued use of this "new" rappel location will eventual cause conflicts with the Park Service.

As a community it would be pretty easy for us to police ourselves and stay under the NPS radar by continuing to use the "old" rappel anchor that is not visible to the average tourist. I would hate to see Arches NP establish a amusing permit system similar to the joke at Zion.

I'd like to hear the thoughts of others about this?

[Scott P]

I have concerns that continued use of this "new" rappel location will eventual cause conflicts with the Park Service.

I'd like to hear the thoughts of others about this?

In a place like Fiery Furnace, yes. In Park Avenue I doubt the park service will cause a problem over this particular situation/location. To be low impact, the anchor should be low very visiblity or no visibility at all from below.

As far as being seen rappelling, it shouldn't be a problem. Park Avenue is smack dab in the middle of perhaps the most popular of the climbing areas in the park. Sheep Rock, Three Gossips, Argon Towers, Organ Towers, other Courthouse Towers, etc. are not only in full view of the nearby trails, but they are also in full view of the highway and especially the parking lot. Tourist (and rangers) often stop in the parking lots to gawk at the climbers all the time.

In fact, right after you enter the park are the Three Penguins. I believe the climb might be in view of the park highway and tourist:



http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/98129.JPG

Something like U-Turn is much less conspicuous. Just use common sense and low impact skills/methods and there shouldn't be a problem with something like U-Turn. U-Turn is almost all on slickrock and the rest (which isn't much) is in a sandy wash, so it can be (and always should be) done low impact.

Somewhere like Fiery Furnace is different. I wouldn't be surprised if the NPS eventually closed some of the routes there. Any trips there should be very inconspicuous and (as always) be sure to use low impact travel. Even something like posting beta on the net is probably not a good idea.

[moab mark]

Tourist can definitely see you. Which probably isn't good, but it is a much better rappel then the original one. As far as the height the rappel is probably around 85' but if you use the existing webbing it takes a 120' rope. You walk down a slope about 30+' before going over the edge. I would not recommend extending the webbing any closer to the edge or the tourist crowd would be able to see it. The anchor is in a slight valley where the webbing cannot be seen from the ground.

There is also another anchor that was/is being used. If standing at the willey coyote rock and lookind down park avenue the anchor that has become popular is just down and to the right. A couple of trips ago there was some webbing on a boulder in the next depression to the left. It was pretty long and red and was blowing in the wind. It also just had a loop tied in the end of it without a rapide. I removed it, we were in a hurry so I did not look that spot over to close but you would not be standing right out on the point like the other location? So it may be a better spot? The boulder was quite a ways from the edge though.
If taking the concern with the park out of the equation the new one is a no brainer, much better. Nice rappel with about 40' free hang.

Mark

[french_de]

but it is a much better rappel then the original one. Mark

The original rappel in Uturn is one of my favorites in Arches. When we did it last we also thought about rappellng farther around by the Coyote rock but decided not to.

[Iceaxe]

As far as being seen rappelling, it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm guessing that is exactly what the guys who were slack lining in the Park Avenue area thought..... didn't they get banned?

If my info is correct slack lining (high lining?) wasn't even on the Park Service radar until one was placed on the 3 Gossips.



Anyhoo..... I'm thinking it's better if canyoneers fly below the radar and not rappel into the middle of the Park Avenue tourists.

I doubt it will be one thing that could evenutally cause friction between canyoneers and the NPS... it would probable be a combination of minor problems.... Canyoneers walking down the highway between courthouse and the Dragonfly TH (this has now been addressed). Canyoneers stomping crypto, canyoneers rappeling into crowds, canyoneers creating social trails.....

That's my 2 cents on the subject. I think the community would be much better served if we fly under the NPS radar whenever possible.

[jman]

That's my 2 cents on the subject. I think the community would be much better served if we fly under the NPS radar whenever possible.

I agree. This should be a RULE on the canyoneering code of conduct. ON BLM land and other places, no one really cares about climbers or canyoneers presence, as a whole. But NPS, since it primarily serves to the non-technical crowd, us canyoneers definitely bring in a LOT of attention for such a small percentage. It would be best to minimize our attention, in NPS boundaries.

[Scott P]

I'm guessing that is exactly what the guys who were slack lining in the Park Avenue area thought..... didn't they get banned?

If my info is correct slack lining (high lining?) wasn't even on the Park Service radar until one was placed on the 3 Gossips.

The above is true, but Park Avenue has been a very popular climbing area for many decades has never been below the radar in the past 20+ years.

As far as canyoneering goes, U-Turn isn't really a canyon and not really a canyoneering route and is just a nice scramble, so there isn't anything as far as a new activity there. Isn't the U-Turn route the same route climbers use to access some of the towers? It's more a nice approach and descent route to climb the towers as I assume it has been used often as such. I doubt the word "canyoneering" or "canyoneer" would even be associated with the route if some ranger or tourist happened to see it unless the person doing the route when out of their way to try and convince them otherwise.

I'm not diagreeing and saying that people shouldn't be discreet, just that I don't think it would cause a problem in this particular area. It would still be a good idea to be discreet and its always a good idea to minimize impact.

Canyoneers stomping crypto, canyoneers rappeling into crowds, canyoneers creating social trails.....

As far as that goes, yes all of those can be serious problems and should be avoided. If I remember, this route was on slickrock and in a wash, so that stuff can be avoided, but care must always be taken to avoid the above. This is especially true in other areas of the park.

[Iceaxe]

The above is true, but Park Avenue has been a very popular climbing area for many decades has never been below the radar in the past 20+ years.

First just to clarify, I agree that U-turn and the Teirdrops are not true canyoneering routes in the classic sense, but it is canyoneers who are using the routes and popularizing them. So I consider them canyoneering routes for the ease of general discussion.

It's the increased visual activity that concerns me. Just in the past year while playing in the Park Avenue area I have seen exactly one group of climbers in the area. During this same time I have witnessed more than a dozen canyoneering groups. Also, canyoneering groups are usually larger in size. Climbers generally climb as pairs, but canyoneers often use the small herd approach.

I guess my thoughts are no good can come from flaunting the routes, but I can see a serious down side if we flaunt them. Better safe than sorry..... It's not like we have to abandon the route, we just need to use a little commonsense.

[renshiwo]

Hey guys. As your friendly NPS spy, I agree that staying below the radar is your best possible strategy for keeping park lands open to canyoneering. While I appreciate Scott's point that Park Avenue is a well established climbing area, I would say if the park begins to notice a lot of traffic away from the traditional routes, that's going to trigger concern. And FYI - Arches is planning to start work on a climbing management plan within the next year, so discretion is definitely advisable.

[Scott P]

climb as pairs, but canyoneers often use the small herd approach.

Perfectly valid point.

PS, renshiwo that is the best profile pic ever!

[renshiwo]

PS, renshiwo that is the best profile pic ever!

Thanks Scott!

[Iceaxe]

Hey guys. As your friendly NPS spy, I agree that staying below the radar is your best possible strategy for keeping park lands open to canyoneering.

Thanks for suppling us with the friendly NPS insider info.

It is much appreciated.

[ScoutColorado]

PS, renshiwo that is the best profile pic ever!

Thanks Scott!

Yeah, great profile pic - but will it last? Say, in a couple of months?