TR: Going against the grain, up the east fork of leprechaun

[forum8fox]

We'll I'm just going to start off where I left off on the squeeze TR.

We went to Hanksville to get some gas and a bite to eat. I got cell service and used the internet on my phone to pull up Tom's site and get some info on a narrow canyon to show Nathan. This was Nate's first time canyoneering this weekend and he got a good feel for pot holes (like the rest of us) in the squeeze. He likes squeezing through tight spots in caves so I knew he would enjoy a narrow canyon. We were really torn because we were super tired and it was quite hot in Hanksville, I almost felt like just going home a day early but I knew I would regret it. We decided that we would go up the canyon if we could to avoid alot of sun, and we could hike back down in the heat which would be easier then up. Plus it would be later in the day so it would be less hot.

So off we went up the canyon:




It was nothing serious untill our first real little up climb. We climbed up a slot and found a wall that just poured over smooth as a baby's bottom. So we threw pot shots:



Up Nate goes!

All the way to the lip:

We know he's got to be careful here because the uphill side might be completely flat. He worked up to where he could see the bags and then see them sliding towards him as he slid back down off the drop into the sand pit below.

So we throw hooks this time and try throwing the potshots on top of the hook that snags. things seem solid but we decide to throw another hook. We weren't really sure if it was a good idea but soon found out it wasn't as it didn't snag anything but our pot shots which dislodged the original hook and brought it all back down. On the thrid try we got the first hook to snag something solid and it felt truck. We threw potshots on it again and called it good. Nate went back up and got up this time. He spoke of the anticipation of rounding the lip and not being able to see what the hook had snagged. Once he got to the bags he moved them to see the hook (BD graupling hook) had snagged a rap ring slung to a rock! We were psyched and went up canyon again. We were glad we had made the decision to do this.

We continued on up a couple more up climbs, some of which were a little tricky and quite exposed but nothing too bad. I didn't get many pictures as my camera is pretty F'ed up. Here is the last climb out, it was a good one!








Psyched!

[rockgremlin]

You guys have the best TRs. I can't believe the ridiculous luck you had snagging that rap ring with a grappling hook!!!!

Wanna go to Vegas?

[Sombeech]

So did you guys know what you were trying to grapple on that first climb? What was it anyways? A log or rock?

[forum8fox]

Thanks I'm glad you like them; sorry though, I don't gamble so Vegas is out.
We had no idea what we were trying to snag, pure dumb luck. It was a slung rock that was like a wedged deadman of sorts. I'm not exactly sure what we would have done if that didn't happen, I was thinking we could throw the pot shots higher up out of the slot. Maybe it would drop back in up around a bend or something but who knows if that would have worked either.

[Iceaxe]

FYI: You are the first group I know of that has up climbed the complete East Fork.

The Middle Fork and the West Fork have both been upclimbed.

Thanks for the TR.

[Scott Card]

Nope, I know a group that up climbed east Lep last year. Sorry. I will check to see if they used ropes. I know they did a human pyramid to climb the last rap.

[Iceaxe]

Nope, I know a group that up climbed east Lep last year. Sorry.

Did they climb the head wall also? I know of several groups that have climbed the dryfall above Leprechaun junction.

[qedcook]

We once ascended the east fork unintentionally. We dropped in too early and wanted to see the whole canyon, so up we went. It's quite a fun climb!

[Scott Card]

Nope, I know a group that up climbed east Lep last year. Sorry.

Did they climb the head wall also? I know of several groups that have climbed the dryfall above Leprechaun junction.

I don't think they did the head wall. I spoke with Spidey and it was actually a couple of years ago (2). They went through the middle fork so fast with their group they had day light to burn so they reversed East Lep. They were NOT successful with the human pyramid but used a pack toss on the last rap of East Lep. They climbed everything else with partner assists. They stopped after climbing the first rap/down climb and went back down the canyon.

[vader]

I think if there was an award for trip reports you would take it.

Thanks for the great TR and the awesome pictures.