Hiking 101: What are the best hikes in Utah?

[Iceaxe]

Hiking 101: What are the best hikes in Utah?
July 16, 2009
Deb Stanley - Denver Hiking Examiner

Thousands of Coloradans make a run for the border everyday to hike, bike and explore. Not the Mexico border, but the Utah border. Utah offers breathtaking slot canyons, hidden and not-so-hidden arches, waterfalls and much more.

Here are some of the best hikes in Utah:

1. The Narrows. Zion National Park. This is a great hike, but it's not a normal hike. You don't just put your boots on and go to hike the Zion Narrows. Most people wear a dry suit and special boots, because this hike is in the river. At times the river will only be ankle deep, at times you can hike on the rocks out of the water and at times, you'll likely have to swim. The Narrows hike is 16 miles long in a canyon with walls that soar up to 2,000 feet. You can hike the entire 16 miles from top to bottom or start at the bottom, hike up as far as you want, then turn around. The first time I did this hike, I just rolled up my jeans, wore my regular boots and hiked a couple turns before the water got too deep. It's worth it. But consider renting the special boots and hiking up further. Even better, rent the special boots and the dry suit and go a couple miles up. Because the Narrows are a slot canyon of sorts, make sure you check the forecast.

2. Ding & Dang Canyons. San Rafael Swell. Ding has areas that are true slot canyons with some interesting obstacles, but nothing that needs a rope. I have seen photos showing water in the slot canyons, but when we went it was perfectly dry. Most people hike up Ding and down Dang Canyon because of a steep dropoff in Dang. Honestly, while many people avoid the dropoff by using a ledge on the side of the canyon, we actually hiked up Ding, down Dang to the dropoff and back up Dang and down Ding. While it would've been ideal to do the loop, the dropoff looked dangerous to us and hiking the canyons in reverse was nice because they looked completely different in the other direction. 4-6 miles.

3. Spooky & Peak-a-boo. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Spooky & Peak-a-boo are slot canyons. Spooky is so narrow, you'll have to remove your backpack to make it through some of the tight spots. The canyon walls got so high, my camera refused to take photos, even with a flash. The walls are colorful and at times knobby with embedded sand. Expect to walk through soft, deep sand and expect to do some maneuvering to get up and down some of the canyon obstacles. This is not a hike, it's an intro to canyoneering. And don't forget, never go into a slot canyon if it is raining or rain is expected, people die in slot canyon floods.

4. Devils Garden. Arches National Park. Devils Garden is home to more than a half dozen beautiful arches including Landscape Arch. Landscape arch is the second longest in the world and just 6 foot thick in one section. It looks like it could fall anytime. Nearby Wall Arch collapsed in 2008, so Landscape could be next or it could stand for a few more centuries. With arches, you never know. The trail past Landscape goes to Double O Arch. It has two arches in the same wall. A big O arch and a small O arch. You can even climb through the smaller/lower arch to the other side for cool pictures. I not only like this arch, I like the hike TO this arch. It involves a bit of scrambling and hiking on a thin fin. Consider taking the primitive trail back so you can visit Hidden Arch and add a little more challenge/fun to your hike. The park Web sites says "...the Devils Garden Trail leads to eight awe-inspiring arches. Expect narrow ledges with rocky surface hiking and scrambling on slickrock." Loop is 7.2 miles roundtrip with side trips.

5. Delicate Arch. Arches National Park. This is the arch on the license plates in Utah. The hike can be challenging, but I enjoy hiking this trail to test my fitness level from year to year. Some years this hike is a breeze, some years it's tough. I enjoy that final push to the top, when you suddenly turn around a corner and there's the arch. Maybe this is my favorite because when my Dad and I came here years ago, he insisted on hiking around the bowl to stand under the arch. I was scared, but my 70-something father was not. All I could think is how will I explain to my mother if my father slipped here? Since then, I've been back year after year.

6. Buckskin Gulch/Wire Pass. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Many call Buckskin Gulch the longest and deepest slot canyon in the Southwest. While many canyons have a few hundred feet or narrows, maybe even a mile, Buckskin Gulch has 12 miles of narrows. The walls of Buckskin Gulch soar up 100 feet, 200 feet, 300 feet and higher. Many people hike this as an overnight trip. For that you'll need a permit. You don't have to do the whole hike to enjoy this spot. Take Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch and hike as far as you want, then turn around. Wire Pass is a nice hike by itself with some very nice narrows. Wire Pass shares its trailhead with hikers going to "The Wave."

7. Calf Creek Falls. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Grand Staircase-Escalante is not known for its waterfalls, but this is a good one. A 2.75 mile hike takes you to a waterfall with a 126-foot drop and a pool at the bottom. At the falls, it feels like the temperature drops 10 degrees even if you don't get in the water. The trailhead is just off Utah Highway 12, 15 miles east of the Town of Escalante. There is a day fee to park and hike here. Bring cash.

8. Wildhorse & Bell Canyons. San Rafael Swell. This is probably the best hike to start with in the San Rafael Swell. It has a marked trailhead. Lots of people hike the trails and the narrows are fascinating. Many people take their kids here. There is some scrambling, but there's nothing technical (meaning no ropes or special gear is necessary). Hiking both canyons is a loop of 8 miles roundtrip, but if you don't want to hike that far, I say hike up Wild Horse as far as you're willing and turn around.

9. Angel's Landing. Zion National Park. This is an unforgettable hike and a tough one. Hikers climb 1,488 feet in 2.5 miles which isn't much by Colorado standards, but much of this hike is on switchbacks and the last half mile to the top follows a steep, narrow ridge that has chains for safety. This hike is not for anyone afraid of heights. But those who make it to the top are rewarded with amazing views of the park.

10. Chesler Park Loop/Joint Trail. Canyonlands National Park. This is no walk in the park, you'll cross several sections of Needles until you arrive at Chesler Park. From here, you'll hike around the park to the Joint trail, a slot canyon in Canyonlands. The Needles are colorful sandstone spires. Hike is 11 miles roundtrip, bring plenty of water. We ran out on a warm day.

Special Mention. Horseshoe Canyon Unit, Canyonlands National Park. This isn't one of my favorite hikes, but it's a place you shouldn't miss if you're interested in rock art. The Horseshoe Canyon unit of Canyonlands National Park is home to one of the most amazing examples of pictographs and petroglyphs in the country. The area is called the Great Gallery. The hike to the panels and back is 6.5 miles roundtrip with a drop of 750 feet.

http://www.examiner.com/x-2520-Denver-Hiking-Examiner~y2009m7d16-Utah-Week-My-favorite-hikes-in-Utah

[DiscGo]

I think the list is mostly accurate, but I disagree about Ding & Dang. There are a lot of other slots which I prefer.

[Iceaxe]

I agree.... I'd swap Ding & Dang out and replace it with The Subway.

[uintahiker]

Ding & Dang was fun- but ranked too high.

I for one think the loop hike from LWH to Bells is WAAAAY over-rated. I think it's a much better use of my time to go up LWH and back down, spending the time goofing off in the slot. Crack canyon is cool & family friendly down that way too.

Calf Creek Falls is a bit overrated in my book as well. Cool, yes. Cooler then Angels Landing or LWH- definitely not.

Where's Coyote Gulch or Grand Gulch?

I've heard High spur is great. Does it make the list?

[asdf]

No way Ding Dang should be in the Top 10.

and wheres Timpanogos?

[Iceaxe]

LWH and Angel's Landing are already on the list......

High Spur would suck to try and do as a hike, to much work for what you would get.... but High Spur is a good tech route if you like pretty Antelope Canyon type stuff, but its not a top ten unless you were creating a top 10 slots to photograph or something.

Outside of Ding and Dang being on the list, and the Subway not being on the list, I really can't bitch about the list to much. It might not be my list but they are all world class hikes.

My list would have to include the Black Hole....

The Black Hole

[denaliguide]

Where's Coyote Gulch or Grand Gulch?

sssshhh... you just be quiet now.

should have just listed them all in zion. keep the impact in one place.

[Cirrus2000]

Where's Coyote Gulch or Grand Gulch?

sssshhh... you just be quiet now.

should have just listed them all in zion. keep the impact in one place.

Don't bring up Dark Canyon, either...

Considering my first trip to Utah was less than 5 years ago, I feel pretty good having done 7 of the 10 listed, plus the honorable mention.

Interesting reading everyone's comments.

[Rented mule]

he he shhhh! Don't even waste your time on a horrible hehe
hike that you all should stay away from. The bottom of Ashdown Gorge
up rattlesnake creek to the two waterfalls and then, get into starlight creek and the upper drainages of the Cedar Breaks Amphitheatre and chessman ridge with a shneeky exit up the blowhard. shhhhh this 13 hour day
will make you feel like an explorer who has set foot on it for the first time.
And, you may not see another living soul once you get past the turnoff for the trail up to
Brian head peak area. The bottom of Cedar breaks is so ugly, I only took
230 pictures hehe shhhhh!!! And it is free!! no permit, either.
shhhh

[Bo_Beck]

he he shhhh! Don't even waste your time on a horrible hehe
hike that you all should stay away from. The bottom of Ashdown Gorge
up rattlesnake creek to the two waterfalls and then, get into starlight creek and the upper drainages of the Cedar Breaks Amphitheatre and chessman ridge with a shneeky exit up the blowhard. shhhhh this 13 hour day
will make you feel like an explorer who has set foot on it for the first time.
And, you may not see another living soul once you get past the turnoff for the trail up to
Brian head peak area. The bottom of Cedar breaks is so ugly, I only took
230 pictures hehe shhhhh!!! And it is free!! no permit, either.
shhhh

Plus 1! Better keep it hush though for may be a National Park sometime close in the future! Ashdown Wilderness RULES!
http://www.zionnational-park.com/ima...m2/index17.htm
http://www.zionnational-park.com/ima...m2/index12.htm

[Iceaxe]

I've only done Dark Canyon from the Lake at full pool. That was so easy to access not sure if I'd call it a hike..... more like a stroll, but it was awesome. I feel sorry for you guys that have to hike in from the top. From the lake would also be a bitch now days with the low water.

Ashdown has been on my hit list for a while. You guys just moved it up a few more notches. Thanks for the recommend.

[denaliguide]

there are no hikes in utah. absolutely none. zip. zilch. nada. pass it on. please.