Ascender/Autoblock/etc devices

[zoeimogen]

This is probably a topic on which there will be a variety of opinions, but what devices along the lines of Petzl Shunts/Tiblocks and WIld Country Ropemen (As well as a Purcell Prusik or two, presumably) do people tend to carry with them - mostly "just in case" - when canyoneering?

I like the look of the Shunt because it doubles as an autoblock and self-belay device but it's restricted in terms of the rope diameter you can use. On the other hand, things like the tiblock and ropeman don't work at all if you're double-lining and climbers seem to prefer the grigri for self-belaying...

[SLCmntjunkie]

I carry a pair of tiblocs as well as a pair of prusik cords. Ascending is usually an emergency technique so I like the light weight of the tiblocs. You can put a pair of tiblocs on 1 carabiner to ascend double ropes but if you only have two tiblocs you'll have to use something else for a leg loop like a friction hitch with a prusik cord. I do like the ropeman but don't have one.

Ascending is something you should be prepared to do, if you go canyoneering enough you will eventually get your rope stuck and have to go back up to fix it.

[Iceaxe]

I carry a pair of tiblocs as well as a pair of prusik cords.

I also carry a pair of Tiblocs, and enough accessory chord in my possibles bag to tie a pair of prusik cords. In all my years of canyoneering I can only think of 2 or 3 times I was forced to use them and climb a rope in an emergency situation.

If I know I'll be climbing a rope than I prepare better and bring along a set of jumars.

[Iceaxe]

On the other hand, things like the tiblock and ropeman don't work at all if you're double-lining

I always rappel double line when the opportunity presents itself (I feel its safer)..... and this argument never made sense to me because you only need to climb one rope and you should always be able to fix the other side by one of several methods.... knot block or biner block up top, tying in the bottom of the second line down below (I've tied in to my partners harness before in a emergency).

[zoeimogen]

Tried using a prusik as an autoblock today while abseiling, didn't like it much as it removes the ability to adjust the friction on the fly when using a Petzl Pirana as easily. I'm guessing a shunt would suffer from the same problem though, so seems little benefit having one over just using an autoblock - would only use one if the abseil really warranted it, it's not something I'd want to use all the time. I guess that means having something that can work as an autoblock as well as an ascender is pretty pointless, so a grigri or tiblock would be better. (Latter seeming better for canyons as it's lighter)

[oldno7]

On the other hand, things like the tiblock and ropeman don't work at all if you're double-lining

I always rappel double line when the opportunity presents itself (I feel its safer)..... and this argument never made sense to me because you only need to climb one rope and you should always be able to fix the other side by one of several methods.... knot block or biner block up top, tying in the bottom of the second line down below (I've tied in to my partners harness before in a emergency).

Shane
I know you know, but others might not......
If you have someone below fix one side of the rope to their harness,rock, tree,etc. you effectively double the ascending persons weight on the anchor.
ie. if ascending guy weighs 200lbs, you put at least 400lbs on the anchor.
While this may be fine if you have a bomber anchor, if your anchor is marginal it's best to ascend double strand.
It might be best to be capable of doing both as the situation dictates.

[canyonguru]

i only cary a couple of prusik cords thats it. in 9 year of canyons i have never gotten a rope stuck but then again i haven't really done anything to crazy.

[ratagonia]

This is probably a topic on which there will be a variety of opinions, but what devices along the lines of Petzl Shunts/Tiblocks and WIld Country Ropemen (As well as a Purcell Prusik or two, presumably) do people tend to carry with them - mostly "just in case" - when canyoneering?

I like the look of the Shunt because it doubles as an autoblock and self-belay device but it's restricted in terms of the rope diameter you can use. On the other hand, things like the tiblock and ropeman don't work at all if you're double-lining and climbers seem to prefer the grigri for self-belaying...

We're not climbing, we're canyoneering, so climbers's taste is not particularly pertinent. That ol' climber BDC will pipe in an insist that it is, but given he hardly ever canyoneers on this side of the pond...

Two tiblocs. Two fairly new Petzl Attache Carabiners. Three slings.

A couple extra carabiners. If I have a sketchy rappel, pre-rigging a z-rig after my rappel device has become my method of being able to adjust the rappel friction 'en rappel'. I use an Autobloc when guiding but not elsewise - too much fiddling is needed to get it to perform correctly. Using a prusik knot for an autobloc is not advised - when it sticks, it sticks really solid and tends to be VERY difficult to get to release.

It is largely a matter of style, but the stuff between your ears what is most important. With carabiners, tiblocs and slings, and a Pirana, you can do pretty much all rescue thingees you need to. Carrying other, heavier stuff, means carrying more weight, but not having more capability.

Tom